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Old 02-11-2020, 10:45 PM   #15
soundman98
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"ECU IG1"
"ECU IG2"
"ECU ACC"

are all circuits that very commonly come on/off with a key. i believe ignition 2 is the radio power circuit, so it's easy to know if it's working.
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:25 AM   #16
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Looks like OP may have had electrical problems in the past? Been a while but may be related.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113496
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:20 AM   #17
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So to speak to the 500 rpm, my WRX had similar symptoms when I did my exhaust, intake, and EBCS. I was surprised to learn how much the MAF sensor was tied to ABS, TCS (wheel speed sensor). Although I agree that your wiring to the wiper fuse is puzzling, maybe clean your MAF sensor with some MAF cleaner. But maybe your car went to limp mode because of the questionable wiring. This is why I'm a mechanical guy, I despise electrics lol.

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Old 02-13-2020, 03:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle View Post
So to speak to the 500 rpm, my WRX had similar symptoms when I did my exhaust, intake, and EBCS. I was surprised to learn how much the MAF sensor was tied to ABS, TCS (wheel speed sensor). Although I agree that your wiring to the wiper fuse is puzzling, maybe clean your MAF sensor with some MAF cleaner. But maybe your car went to limp mode because of the questionable wiring. This is why I'm a mechanical guy, I despise electrics lol.

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It doesn't take as long as people think to pull out sensors and test their resistance. Tedious but it may be the solution (although it could be as simple as plugs, fuel injector cleaner, or an air filter!) I had a similar problem with my Fiancée's Impreza, low RPMs, occasional cam position sensor, and rarely a cyclinder misfire code. I replaced on cam sensor that didn't read out the right ohms and that made it better but it was still a little wierd with the RPMs just less codes thrown so I ran a bottle of injector cleaner and the car drives normally again. The issues can be the same or different but the approach is the same. Test anything that might be a problem and fix the cheap possibilities first.

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Old 02-13-2020, 10:52 PM   #19
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This is why I'm a mechanical guy, I despise electrics lol.
you know, everyone that's contracted me to do electrical work that says this phrase is always the type that firmly believes that everything can be fixed with only duct tape, baling wire, and wd40.

duct tape is conductive, baling wire has a high resistance, and wd40 is flammable. none of those things should be mixed with electricity...
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:22 AM   #20
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duct tape is conductive
(<-- damn dude, smile a little) The aluminum stuff used to seal the seams on duct work is without question conductive. General purpose duct tape is not conductive, but it is also not insulated (doesn't protect against getting zapped). It's just not advisable to use because it offers minimal fire protection under a load.
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Old 02-14-2020, 04:25 PM   #21
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you know, everyone that's contracted me to do electrical work that says this phrase is always the type that firmly believes that everything can be fixed with only duct tape, baling wire, and wd40.

duct tape is conductive, baling wire has a high resistance, and wd40 is flammable. none of those things should be mixed with electricity...
Bubba says you're WRONG!




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Old 02-14-2020, 08:48 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle View Post
(<-- damn dude, smile a little) The aluminum stuff used to seal the seams on duct work is without question conductive. General purpose duct tape is not conductive, but it is also not insulated (doesn't protect against getting zapped). It's just not advisable to use because it offers minimal fire protection under a load.
general purpose duct tape is in fact conductive. i made an amplifier very unhappy playing with some speakers trying to use duct tape to seal off the back side of the speakers(putting tape over/across the terminals), the speakers started audibly distorting from the short. i've also ran into it a few times in residential wiring, after it causes issues that no one else can figure out...

i'm talking about this stuff


put an ohm meter on the adhesive part of your roll
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:50 PM   #23
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Bubba says you're WRONG!




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Old 02-15-2020, 06:51 PM   #24
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The windshield wiper fuse was used because for some reason literally every other fuse we tried wouldn't work--we tried all the fuses for things that should have been off if the car was off but the airlift system would be turn on even thought they keys are not in the car and the car is not on..
Going from bad to worse.
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Old 02-15-2020, 07:30 PM   #25
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Recently its been at 500 and the car shakes as if its about to stall.

check engine and traction lights.

car just shut off. It turned back on without any trouble.
I solved those symptoms with a MAF sensor replacement. The CEL was P0172 (system too rich).

I had similar trouble later but this time CEL was P0304 (cylinder misfire) with additional symptom of engine shaking, not just rough idle. That was fixed with replacing the valve springs.

Get an OBDII reader and post the CEL number here so that you can get better help.

BTW, normal warm idle is ~800 rpm. If AC or radiator fans are on, idle goes closer to 1000 rpm.
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Old 02-16-2020, 11:59 PM   #26
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Keep it all OE , just do a K&N /TRD drop in air filter , use as good of lubricants as you can afford , change engine oil every 5k miles roughly, and put in the highest 91-94 octane fuel as you can!
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:36 AM   #27
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My car seemed to have a dramatic cold start at about 2500, then it usually calmed down to about 1000.
That's normal with a stock ECU tune. Does this to get cat up to temp

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