Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[Njjawn]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

@Njjawn if you're running an IC'd kit, the issue is more that the heat exchanger system isn't efficient at losing the intake heat. To do this you need to find a way to improve the heat handling. It's not so much to do with ambient heat, but intake temps being dumped into the system. Look at the TVS systems, they don't suffer as the heat exchangers are more efficient at removing the heat from the intake charge and then from the water in the intercooler.

Yeah, the IC'd kit.
So, from my understanding

Coating the header - prevents some heat from rising up to the intake system. Therefore, effective.
OP/FP wrap - probably slightly effective, but still effective at reducing raising heat.
Guady Gold on the bottom of the IC - Prevents any ambient engine/exhuast heat from warming up the air on the hot side of the supercharger - should be effective.
Guady Gold on the it take system - probably effective.
Aluminum jungle gym in the bumper - Probably does something, but not anything that will help the sprintex kits real problems - high IAT?

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by Njjawn

Yeah, the IC'd kit.
So, from my understanding

Coating the header - prevents some heat from rising up to the intake system. Therefore, effective.
OP/FP wrap - probably slightly effective, but still effective at reducing raising heat.
Guady Gold on the bottom of the IC - Prevents any ambient engine/exhuast heat from warming up the air on the hot side of the supercharger - should be effective.
Guady Gold on the it take system - probably effective.
Aluminum jungle gym in the bumper - Probably does something, but not anything that will help the sprintex kits real problems - high IAT?

The main cause of heat are the compressors, obviously the lower the IATs the better but +/- 5 Degrees C makes little difference to the post compressor charge temps. All the above are valid points to keep ambient bay temps down. OP/FP aren't in the bay to bother worrying about. The intake is plastic, pretty good insulator, but if you're going to gold the manifold, why not.

The stock intake already pulls air from the coldest area possible if the rad ducting is intact.

[riboyster]

Get rid of the stock intake and swap it for something that is still cold air but not a box in the engine bay.
I noticed a world of difference in IAT at the supercharger afterward. As far as the rotors go, you won't see any problems running 12.5psi on a 90F day even without a charge cooler doing spirited runs and street racing(with a conservative tune [although I wouldn't suggest tracking with this setup at these temps]).

There is always the option to go with alcohol injection just to be safe though. It cools the rotors and airflow down substantially, adds around another 1-1.5lb boost, and ups the octane level in combustion. I use it on ambient temps above 85F.
It's worth noting that you'll probably start to feel less performance at around 80F+.

Another thing you'll feel is humidity. A dry 70 degree day will give you a much nicer run than a humid one.
For safekeeping (this hasn't been proven by any means), I vent my charger crankcase pressure through the dipstick when it is at temp about once a year. The oil seal has been known to weep, so my best practice has been to run it at about ambient pressure when hot, and vacuum when cold. Haven't had any weeping since. This is all personal speculation, of course. You can do whatever the $*(& you want to do.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by riboyster

Get rid of the stock intake and swap it for something that is still cold air but not a box in the engine bay.
I noticed a world of difference in IAT at the supercharger afterward.

Stock MAF location? The stock intake is pretty good at getting ambient temp intake air, within a couple of degrees unless you're stuck in traffic, which doesn't really matter. This is proven on NA cars and the theory doesn't change on this setup. It's not an open filter and the actual intake is in the bumper. Air in the filter housing will not really increase in temperature unless it's not being used. Once you get any form of velocity into the system then ambient (bay) conditions really become largely irrelevant.

I do understand that you're in a hot part of the world, I really should try rigging up the MAF IAT sensor into my rear O2 input so that I can compare ambient/pre/post charge.

Think about ideas like:
Better IC radiator
More water in the system
Better coolant:water mix
Larger water pump
Water/meth spray

None of these have been proven, except the last. But it may be what I'd try. However the issue may be the laminova core, which we can do nothing about.

[Njjawn]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

The main cause of heat are the compressors, obviously the lower the IATs the better but +/- 5 Degrees C makes little difference to the post compressor charge temps. All the above are valid points to keep ambient bay temps down. OP/FP aren't in the bay to bother worrying about. The intake is plastic, pretty good insulator, but if you're going to gold the manifold, why not.

The stock intake already pulls air from the coldest area possible if the rad ducting is intact.

I dont see a reason to ditch the stock intake, it seems to work efficiently, and even more efficiently by doing the "snorkel mod".

Originally Posted by riboyster

Get rid of the stock intake and swap it for something that is still cold air but not a box in the engine bay.
I noticed a world of difference in IAT at the supercharger afterward. As far as the rotors go, you won't see any problems running 12.5psi on a 90F day even without a charge cooler doing spirited runs and street racing(with a conservative tune [although I wouldn't suggest tracking with this setup at these temps]).

There is always the option to go with alcohol injection just to be safe though. It cools the rotors and airflow down substantially, adds around another 1-1.5lb boost, and ups the octane level in combustion. I use it on ambient temps above 85F.
It's worth noting that you'll probably start to feel less performance at around 80F+.

Another thing you'll feel is humidity. A dry 70 degree day will give you a much nicer run than a humid one.
For safekeeping (this hasn't been proven by any means), I vent my charger crankcase pressure through the dipstick when it is at temp about once a year. The oil seal has been known to weep, so my best practice has been to run it at about ambient pressure when hot, and vacuum when cold. Haven't had any weeping since. This is all personal speculation, of course. You can do whatever the $*(& you want to do.

I've thought about doing a meth injection set up but it doesn't really seem all the common. Youre happy with it?

Originally Posted by Kodename47

Stock MAF location? The stock intake is pretty good at getting ambient temp intake air, within a couple of degrees unless you're stuck in traffic, which doesn't really matter. This is proven on NA cars and the theory doesn't change on this setup. It's not an open filter and the actual intake is in the bumper. Air in the filter housing will not really increase in temperature unless it's not being used. Once you get any form of velocity into the system then ambient (bay) conditions really become largely irrelevant.

I do understand that you're in a hot part of the world, I really should try rigging up the MAF IAT sensor into my rear O2 input so that I can compare ambient/pre/post charge.

Think about ideas like:
Better IC radiator
More water in the system
Better coolant:water mix
Larger water pump
Water/meth spray

None of these have been proven, except the last. But it may be what I'd try. However the issue may be the laminova core, which we can do nothing about.

By more water in the system, you essentially mean extend the lines/bigger reservoir so the is more surface area (? fluid dynamics idk.) to transfer the heat to?

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Njjawn

I've thought about doing a meth injection set up but it doesn't really seem all the common. Youre happy with it?

I am. Keep in mind that I'm only using it to cool the unit when I feel like it's probably heat soaked, or on hot days when I want to do a pull or two. If I lived in an alpine region where the summer average was under 75 degrees, I'd probably have no use for it. I'd like to consider my WMI setup conservative, but I'd definitely recommend talking to @PitViper for more info. He knows his way around tuning it into your system and aggressive WMI applications.

[chargedup]

I think i'm about to ditch my perrin CAI. The fitting that attaches to the sprintex intake tube(what is this called btw?) always comes loose and isn't supported well. Anything easier to run here?

[Njjawn]

So I finally took the drive and picked up my SC.

The previous owner gave me a dyno sheet for his car, showing 246WHP 199TQ... I asked him what other "supporting mods" he had and he told me that the car was 100% stock otherwise. The supercharger was rebuilt by Jon Bond and he was running the stock pulley, and the innovate provided tune without any re-tuning or adjusting.

Not that I doubt him, I mean the paperwork was in my hand... but how? Arent those like 70mm numbers on a full bolt on car?

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by chargedup

I think i'm about to ditch my perrin CAI. The fitting that attaches to the sprintex intake tube(what is this called btw?) always comes loose and isn't supported well. Anything easier to run here?

Hmm, I don't have any issues with my perrin intake-but I do agree with you on support. When ever I take that tube off, the intake seems pretty jiggly.

Originally Posted by Njjawn

So I finally took the drive and picked up my SC.

The previous owner gave me a dyno sheet for his car, showing 246WHP 199TQ... I asked him what other "supporting mods" he had and he told me that the car was 100% stock otherwise. The supercharger was rebuilt by Jon Bond and he was running the stock pulley, and the innovate provided tune without any re-tuning or adjusting.

Not that I doubt him, I mean the paperwork was in my hand... but how? Arent those like 70mm numbers on a full bolt on car?

Yeah, those do seem kinda high, but what dyno was it? Some places "inflate" their dyno numbers to look better lol.

You're in for some fun though!

[continuecrushing]

so finally got my 335 installed yesterday. PITA lol. I highly suggest removing the whole intake manifold, instead of my impossible way of NOT haha.

I took a ton of pics and video, so I'll have something up in the next few days.

Anyway, the car started up (thanks Mike/Moto East) and went for a short drive to check everything over. Didn't beat on it, as I still need to log and send that back to Mike

After that, it'll be clutch time...and then back on the dyno
@yip @moto-mike

[Njjawn]

Originally Posted by continuecrushing

Hmm, I don't have any issues with my perrin intake-but I do agree with you on support. When ever I take that tube off, the intake seems pretty jiggly.




Yeah, those do seem kinda high, but what dyno was it? Some places "inflate" their dyno numbers to look better lol.

You're in for some fun though!

I gotta look at the sheet to see, but I remember it said something "australia" on it. That would make sense i suppose

[chargedup]

aaaand now moto east didn't send me a license with my tune


this car is a disaster

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by chargedup

aaaand now moto east didn't send me a license with my tune


this car is a disaster

I have a buddy here who was dealing with the same type of Shit last week.
Kinda makes me happy they aren't my tuner.
Never too late to switch to delicious tuning.

[continuecrushing]

I've dealt with both Delicious and now Moto-East, both have been good.

Give Moto East a call, I'm sure they'll be quick to help out