P0016 on a 60k mile car

[Ultramaroon]

You got this. Keep us posted.

[ninjabutt]

Lol thanks. No new info on ILVs and I still can't clear the u0155 code. New ECU calid is za1jd00c and some of my research says that that calid is for 2015 cars only and I may need to reflash to b01c/d (for my 2014). Any info on how likely that is? I have a friend that lives not too far from here that I may be able to link up with and get him to reflash the ECU with proper calid but it's not real close so I'm hoping to not waste the time getting it done.

[Ultramaroon]

Help us, @steve99. You're our only hope.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by ninjabutt

Lol thanks. No new info on ILVs and I still can't clear the u0155 code. New ECU calid is za1jd00c and some of my research says that that calid is for 2015 cars only and I may need to reflash to b01c/d (for my 2014). Any info on how likely that is? I have a friend that lives not too far from here that I may be able to link up with and get him to reflash the ECU with proper calid but it's not real close so I'm hoping to not waste the time getting it done.

According to Steve all the ECUs are the same. You can flash any calid you want and be fine. I’ve seen him confirm this several times.

[ninjabutt]

My local guy, was a master tech at the Toyota dealership for years said you can't go backwards in ECU updates, at least not with techstream unless there's a way to trick the ECU into thinking the older calid is the update.

He also said all the different calids have different communication protocols which may be why I'm throwing the code.

If that's all true, I probably won't buy another ECU to check and will likely instead swap out the cam gear, swap my old ECU back in, and then watch the ILVs to see if bank 1 starts to come back up into spec, clearing codes each time. Any other options or info are welcome

[ermax]

Originally Posted by ninjabutt

My local guy, was a master tech at the Toyota dealership for years said you can't go backwards in ECU updates, at least not with techstream unless there's a way to trick the ECU into thinking the older calid is the update.

He also said all the different calids have different communication protocols which may be why I'm throwing the code.

If that's all true, I probably won't buy another ECU to check and will likely instead swap out the cam gear, swap my old ECU back in, and then watch the ILVs to see if bank 1 starts to come back up into spec, clearing codes each time. Any other options or info are welcome

That may be true when flashing with "Techstream" but flashing with other tools you can flash any calid you want onto any ECU you want. You just need to make sure it's a calid that is compatible with your car.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by ninjabutt

Lol thanks. No new info on ILVs and I still can't clear the u0155 code. New ECU calid is za1jd00c and some of my research says that that calid is for 2015 cars only and I may need to reflash to b01c/d (for my 2014). Any info on how likely that is? I have a friend that lives not too far from here that I may be able to link up with and get him to reflash the ECU with proper calid but it's not real close so I'm hoping to not waste the time getting it done.

Yes all ecu hardware is same you just need correct calid


D00C will cause a U0155 dash cluster comms error if that calid is used in a pre 2015 car ie like your 2014, the car will run fine you jist get the odd cel code.


Just get your mate to flash it back to B01C and you will be fine

[ninjabutt]

Ok cool, just for information relative to the thread (or for an opportunity to receive corrective information lol) the u0155 seems to put me in full limp mode not allowing RPMs over 3500

[steve99]

Originally Posted by ninjabutt

Ok cool, just for information relative to the thread (or for an opportunity to receive corrective information lol) the u0155 seems to put me in full limp mode not allowing RPMs over 3500

Yes correct it sets limp mode, i know from when i tried 2015 roms in my 2013 car 4 years ago :-)

[ninjabutt]

So I put the 2014 ECU back in because my toy car budget is all being spent on the drift kart I'm building and I should be able to get most of the information I wanted out of this ECU with techstream, I just won't have the luxury of driving without resetting CEL codes. Sooo, I've been periodically checking the ILVs and neither of the I take values have changed. Bank 1 is still out of spec but hasn't fallen any further and there is no change in bank 2 after probably 600 miles (exhaust numbers are both slightly different though). This increases the likelihood that I won't swap bank 2 preventatively. Future me might call me an asshole for this decision, but now me will have $200 to send less future me to the drift event for my birthday. I will report back anything interesting if it comes up. Picture of drift kart for tax

[69gtojeff]

I bought an early production 2013 FR-S MT from the original owner almost 2 years ago with 48K miles on it. Car is totally stock and used as a daily driver during the non-road salt months. A few months ago the car had about 65K and my wife filled it with 87 octane gas. I was burning it off the next day hoping to get down to about a half tank so I could top it off with premium. I was running it through the gears about 1/2 throttle shifting around 5500 rpm when I got the CEL/skid light combo. I did the fuel thing and probably ran a full tank of premium through it before checking the code because I figured the knock sensor just pulled timing from low octane and everything would be happy after 20 key starts or however many it takes for the light to go off after a fault is inactive. Code is P0018 and the limp mode power reduction is hardly noticeable while obeying traffic laws. Drifting in the rain is still an option though. I swapped cam position sensors and the code didn't go along for the ride. As I sit here typing, I guess I should have swapped ocvs also...

Car now has 69K and at the Toyota dealer for valve spring recall. I agreed to pay list price for parts if they were installed during the valve spring job. Started out as sparkplugs and now I'll also have a shiny new waterpump and serpentine belt. When I dropped it off I said there was an active P0018 and they should inspect the camshaft actuators while the cams were out. I also asked them to reflash with current software because the windows for setting P0018 have been opened up after 2013.

I received a voicemail Thursday that my car was back together and it drove fine. They had done the reflash and P0018 came back during the test drive. They said they could replace the bank 2 exhaust actuator for $618.31 + tax and wanted to know how I would like to proceed. I called back Friday and said I don't need the car this weekend and we'll talk more on Monday when the head service writer and technician who did the work will both be in. Bank 2 exhaust would be P0019 for those still following along. The last thing I want to do is drive it away from the dealer with a CEL and have it explode 5 miles down the road due to debris in the oil.

After plenty of reading on this forum over the last couple days, I see that I'll be buying an ecu to solve my P0018. Is $500 too cheap and I should expect closer to $600? The list price agreement is off the table going forward.

I'm going to insist on seeing the camshaft learning values on their techstream before throwing any parts at it. Assuming the camshaft actuator didn't pop a spring, will the learning values in my old reflashed ecu be between 52-72 intake and 78-98 exhaust? If the cams move together during an rpm sweep, are the actuators fine? Do the cams move primarily due to engine rpm or does load have an influence?

[Ultramaroon]

Reflash will not reset those values.

I don't know if these codes are exclusively caused by jammed spool valves but that is my experience.

If it was mine, I would disassemble and clean all the phasors. I'd also replace the OCV filters and blow the shit out of those passages with compressed air.

[69gtojeff]

It's all assembled at the dealer with a P0018 waiting for my call for the next move. I totally agree with your plan of attack if I was working on my car in my garage.

[kinghurl]

I'm surprised they didn't recommend an ecu change when they quoted you. Without the ecu it will eventually reset learning values if the OCV is replaced, but it could take 5K miles. If you don't do the ecu then yes ask to see the learning values to see if they're changing. If not do the ecu next.

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