Forced Induction Buyer's Guide | $5,000 +/- (otd) | Daily Driver Spec

[1086]

I imagine many Daily Drivers have had this thought in the back of their head, "If I have this dedicated amount of money to put toward a FI upgrade what would persuade me to go with Kit A vs. Kit B vs. Kit C, etc."

I know there are a variety of threads focusing on said, Kit A or Kit B, but I would like to hear from the experts/knowledgeable gurus in a focused thread about what is it that we noobs need to know to make us confident in our upgrade decision as well as which kit will provide the safest/daily driver approachable set up?

Again, this is focused towards the (assumed) higher volume of DD's who want a FI upgrade but objectively don't know what would meet their needs/wants in a safe/almost-like-OEM application. I do understand that nothing will be close to OEM and all that, but its the best way to describe what I think people have in mind.

And perhaps I will receive these types of responses, who knows, but I am aware that, yes, I could have gone with a different car that had a stock turbo with it, but that would be silly because I like this car. K? K.

I assume most Daily Driver's want something between 250 whp and 300 whp.

That being said and for the sake of keeping things grounded lets say our Daily Driver's goal is to be at modest 250 whp on 91/93 octane fuel.

Lets begin.

Parameters:

• What can $5,000 get someone in a solid FI build?

• Is $5,000 enough for a competent/daily driver FI build?
• What Dollar $$ amount is a more realistic number? $5,500? $6,000? $7,000?

• What necessary hardware/tune upgrades should a DD be looking at along with their FI kit purchase?

• What kits will provide someone with a Daily Driver/OEM-like quality/application and experience?

• Is there a FI application that is considered safe? So that the car may have the potential to reach the long term (100,xxx miles give or take on their car)? I do take into consideration the car hasn't been around long enough, so you can give me your theoretical response too - thank you.

Suggested builds:

@nelsmar :

It can be done for the 5-6k range.

Here is a low end turbo build:
JDL EL Precision 48mm Billet Wheel Journal Bearing Turbo $3349
Omni 3 bar MAP $95
Ecutek License & Cable $650
Innovate LC-2 Wideband + Display (if desired) $165
Dyno time & Tuning fee's $600
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch + Flyhweel $400
Koyo Radiator $329

Total: $5580.00

Sure there are more things you could add like a fan shroud, exhaust upgrades, gauges if you wanted, etc. Mind you this is all at going rates, a lot of places may cut you a deal if you are buying a bunch of stuff at once. Also if running lower boost you could go without the Omni 3 bar and the clutch... That saves $495 making the total $5085. Although this depends on the driver. I had 360WHP/260WTQ and it took a while before my clutch started to slip. I had ordered a new one and finally started pushing it to see what it would take to make it slip and I was quite surprised how it held up. But I don't do the whole drag racing thing my self. (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=64)

@tendogy :

I'll chime in with a starter budget:

(http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=28)

@jamesm

If I were trying to get out the door for $5-6k, I'd get full blown's base kit, boost/afr gauge, an ecutek racerom package, whatever tools I need/don't have for the install and some dyno time. Spend whatever is left on a clutch if possible, or just keep the boost low until I could get one.

If you're not comfortable doing the tune id find a local tuner with experience tuning FI 86s, or drive to one if I had to. Stay far, far away from e-tunes (some may disagree, but that's just my advice based on what I've seen). http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=76

@Sportsguy83 :

I've been back and forth looking at all options and considering all requirements for a DD. I am not the best example (had AVO, sold it and now custom kit).

BUT for a true DD with the casual spirited run (as long as you are really really real with your goals and they don't change much) and considering this is FI out the door, (meaning everything else is stock or at the most some exhaust mods), my vote goes to AVO.

I almost picked up a S/C but I don't like dealing with belts snapping, oil inside them replacement or them using engine power to move. I also did not pick other turbo kits because either quality is truly garbage or there are some heat issues for dd'ing (temps might go a little bit up on stuck traffic). My choice also disregards CARB certification.

So my choice goes like this:

AVO stg. 1 $4100 Includes basemap safe for 91 octane gas in California (easy to install yourself)
BPV to recirculate turbo blow off $125
AEM Failsafe $300
One gauge pillar pod $50?
FBM Oil Cooler $600
ECUTEK License/Cable ~$600
Brake pads/fluid/SS lines $300
Catch Can $300?
Turbo blanket $100
Total: $6475

That is really as low as I would go. I would expect this setup to last, be fun, responsive, not overheat and be safe with stopping power.

Some prices might vary (brakes might be only $200) so there is a little wiggle room to get it close to $6K and also the Catch Can is not life or death necessary on a 5 psi car, but I would add it because it helps extend the life of the motor. (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=98)

@Sportsguy83 :

there is a new chief in town....

MAP Performance's turbo kit.

Stage 1 kit $5250 (The price is absolutely ridiculous for what it includes!!!) http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=407
AEM Failsafe $300
One gauge pillar pod $50?
FBM Oil Cooler $600
BRZEdit Lite $175
Brake pads/fluid/SS lines $300
Turbo blanket $100
Replacement bolt on Crash Beam: $150 http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...Scion-FRS.html
Total: $6975
BUT, that includes exhaust AND fuel upgrades AND Catch Can.
This is absolutely your best bang for buck. (www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1488257&postcount=196)

@spdbydesignchris Speed By Design FT86 Turbo Kit: Ultimate Stock Engine/Pump Gas Package $3999

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58514
http://speed-by-design.myshopify.com...-brz-scion-frs

Stage 1 Turbo Spec:
Mitsubishi 20G CHRA with 6+6 Billet Compressor Wheel Upgrade w/ TD05H Turbine Wheel (8cm Housing)
*Journal Bearing, Oil Cooled
* Internally Wastegated with .7 Bar (10 PSI) Spring
* 44 lb/min Compressor Wheel (440 HP Capable)

Kit Features:
* FREE SBD Stage 1 Ecutek Basemap for 91/93 Octane (Included)
*3-Bar Map Sensor (Included)
*SBD 50mm Blow-Off Valve in your Choice: Anodized Blue, Red, or Silver (Included)
*Tig Welded Stainless Steel Turbo Manifold and Exhaust Piping
*Mandrel Bent Aluminum Intercooler and Intake Piping

$3999 Plus Shipping via FedEx Ground

*Safety Considerations (it does not hurt to keep this in mind)*

@tendogy :

It's everyone's right to take their own risks with their own car, for sure. Having said that, there is no way I would ever replace the OEM beam with a steel tube.
Three reasons:

1) No testing. This community goes on and on about whether or not performance claims have been track tested, heat-soak tested, tested on e85, tested at altitude, etc etc etc. But then we're willing to slap a $150 piece of steel tube with zero testing on our car and trust it to protect us in a collision? That's super crazy.
2) The device does not even claim to offer occupant collision protection. First, it's called a "Drift Bar" not a "Crash Beam." Second, the product description says nothing about occupant protection:
3) There are so many FI options for this car that retain the OEM crash beam, why would you choose one that introduces collision protection concerns?

For more: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=197 & http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=199

[jamesm]

you will not get out the door with any FI kit for less than $5k, except maybe an innovate sc, which won't make what you want in terms of power. whether or not the car will drive like OEM depends on who is tuning it, and the process they apply. all fi is safe when tuned properly at the levels you're looking to reach.

general rule of thumb is to take what you think you'll spend, and how much power you think you'll want, and multiply both by 1.5.

[FReSh]

Very interesting! Looking forward to reading this one...

[FR-S Matt]

I'm in the same boat as you, but my goal is 350 whp. I think 250 whp is a pretty obtainable goal without needing injectors. I figure a stage 1 kit + installation by a professional, then any accessories for the kit, might put you at about $5000 when its said and done. Don't forget to add in tuning and your license cost depending on the platform you choose.

My buddy did a P/L Stage 2 turbo kit, with new injectors, new clutch, tuning, gauges, etc and his final bill was $12k. High power is definitely not cheap.

[1086]

@jamesm Would you say that $5,000 is almost too low for a complete set up (a set up would include kit + tune + all necessary hardware upgrades?) Is a more realistic number going to be closer to $6,000?

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

I'm in the same boat as you, but my goal is 350 whp. I think 250 whp is a pretty obtainable goal without needing injectors. I figure a stage 1 kit + installation by a professional, then any accessories for the kit, might put you at about $5000 when its said and done. Don't forget to add in tuning and your license cost depending on the platform you choose.

My buddy did a P/L Stage 2 turbo kit, with new injectors, new clutch, tuning, gauges, etc and his final bill was $12k. High power is definitely not cheap.

your buddy got ripped off, unless 'etc' includes an engine build lol.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by 1086

Would you say that $5,000 is almost too low for a complete set up (a set up would include kit + tune + all necessary hardware upgrades?) Is a more realistic number going to be closer to $6,000?

will you be doing the install yourself?

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by jamesm

your buddy got ripped off, unless 'etc' includes an engine build lol.

Etc would be new radiator, oil cooler. Labor is probably what most of the cost was. Originally he had a Full Blown kit that he sent back because the fitment was horrible. Swapped to P&L. He didn't have his car for over a month.

[BlueDubbinTDI]

Nice I was about to search for a thread like this sometime today actually. Same goals as you except I want about 270whp on 93oct to start and likely stay at. I wanna max the stock injectors and keep relatively good mpg. 100% short commuter DD.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

Etc would be new radiator, oil cooler. Labor is probably what most of the cost was. Originally he had a Full Blown kit that he sent back because the fitment was horrible. Swapped to P&L. He didn't have his car for over a month.

that's a pretty crazy price... but i guess without seeing the parts list it could add up. i havent spent barely half of that all-in, but i don't have a radiator or oil cooler. i also got a great deal for prototyping a kit and did the tune myself, so my experience isn't typical. it's not half of typical either, though.

[1086]

@jamesm well, perhaps you can give me your answer for both scenarios - someone who does a self-install or has the shop do it for them. Please

You have a good perspective on all this so any information regarding what we can expect with price, additional not expected purchases , etc. would be fantastic lol

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by jamesm

you will not get out the door with any FI kit for less than $5k, except maybe an innovate sc, which won't make what you want in terms of power.

I'm not sure if it would fit the budget constraints, but with the right tune and supporting mods an intercooled Innovate kit with 70mm pulley should come pretty close to his 250whp goal, no?

[1086]

I am also hoping this will help others with similar/like-minded goals as I imagine most people want between 250 whp and 300 whp give or take for a daily driver type build.

[jamesm]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

I'm not sure if it would fit the budget constraints, but with the right tune and supporting mods an intercooled Innovate kit with 70mm pulley should come pretty close to his 250whp goal, no?

and leave absolutely no headroom whatsoever... see my first post about multiplying by 1.5 .