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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 04-03-2015, 12:26 PM   #1975
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Originally Posted by Pat View Post
The APR kit is more expensive and maybe better built. But the TF puts the air right into the rotor veins where it needs to go. The APR kit blows air onto the rotor face, which generally is less effective. If you want bling, go APR. If you want cool brakes without spending more than necessary, go TF.
Appreciate it. If one wanted function + form, do you think the TF kit would have enough length to work with the pretty APR ducts? </end stupid questions>
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:08 PM   #1976
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Appreciate it. If one wanted function + form, do you think the TF kit would have enough length to work with the pretty APR ducts? </end stupid questions>
Probably, but I'm not sure. With the APR ducts you need to make major modifications to the washer fluid reservoir. If you're willing to do that, and spend the extra coin, it might be a great option. I would do some research on it first, though. I'm guessing it's been tried and maybe isn't worth the hassle.
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:16 PM   #1977
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Originally Posted by Sirsimon View Post
So for those of you who track your SC 86 quite a lot (thinking track days here), do you feel that stock brakes + upgraded pads are sufficient, or are AP Racing Brakes a must?
Proper race/track pads + high quality DOT 4 brake fluid work well.

There are pros/cons of brake ducting. This is something we can work with you identify what you are really looking for. For most, ducting works well especially due to the type of pads people are running. For other setups, ducting is actually a bad idea. On top of that, you'll need to find a creative method to funnel a good amount of air with any FI kit.

If you track quite often over the course of the year, you will find that BBKs are there for consistency and reduced brake consumption (over time).
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:53 PM   #1978
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Originally Posted by Andrew025 View Post
Looking at purchasing this oil cooler.
http://www.maximalperformance.com/fr...oil-cooler-kit

Is the main differences between the maximal and JRSC cooler, JRSC is 15 row, mounting bracket and the hose for the rotrex cooler?

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The cooler bolts to the plastic under-body between the radiator and front bumper.
Sorry, pass.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:40 PM   #1979
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Originally Posted by fasteddy View Post
The temp sensor you relocated for the outside air is too close to the radiator. I have this issue as well. I made a bracket and moved it away but mine still reads high.

I am told it needs to be out in the open in the moving air to be correct.

That was the only thing I thought they missed on this kit. They should have included a bracket to move the sensor and a harness extension for it.

This is only a BRZ issue, FRS's don't have the outside temp sensor.

It does not affect anything to do with the engine, it is only for the dash readout.

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Is there a fix to correct this? CSG do you ideas?
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:59 PM   #1980
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I want to confirm if I did my install correctly: did you guys reinstall the air deflection shield from the upper front bumper area before buttoning up the front bumper? This was removed in Step 4, page 4 of the install manual.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:53 AM   #1981
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The boost is back, and man, it feels good.

Have a crank pulley, accessory pulleys and driveshaft on standby for after I secure a clutch and rims.

Want to get a feel for the setup on 91 and E85 before going after peppiness.
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Setup 1: KW C38, Grams 550, Grams 265, 4bar, FlexFuel, Delicious
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Setup 4: JR C30 HBP, DW 700, Grams 265, 3bar, FlexFuel, Church
Setup 5: JR C30 HBP, DW 700, DW 300, 3bar, FlexFuel, Delicious, Built Motor
Setup 6: JR C30 HBP, DW 700, DW 300, 3bar, FlexFuel, Delicious, Closed Deck Built Motor
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:00 AM   #1982
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I want to confirm if I did my install correctly: did you guys reinstall the air deflection shield from the upper front bumper area before buttoning up the front bumper? This was removed in Step 4, page 4 of the install manual.
Nope
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:06 AM   #1983
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Originally Posted by dj2020 View Post
I want to confirm if I did my install correctly: did you guys reinstall the air deflection shield from the upper front bumper area before buttoning up the front bumper? This was removed in Step 4, page 4 of the install manual.
I installed mine just fine
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:29 PM   #1984
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Originally Posted by SPCorBUST View Post
The boost is back, and man, it feels good.

Have a crank pulley, accessory pulleys and driveshaft on standby for after I secure a clutch and rims.

Want to get a feel for the setup on 91 and E85 before going after peppiness.
Snaps. Welcome to the CARB legal club.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:29 PM   #1985
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Originally Posted by dj2020 View Post
I want to confirm if I did my install correctly: did you guys reinstall the air deflection shield from the upper front bumper area before buttoning up the front bumper? This was removed in Step 4, page 4 of the install manual.

You can trim it to go around the charge pipes if you like, but we do not.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:31 PM   #1986
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Originally Posted by Jmonty View Post
Is there a fix to correct this? CSG do you ideas?
You can relocate it to the clean air between the intercooler and front bumper opening, but there's really no way to make it fully functional with all the additional piping in the way. You can always remove a faux fog light, and place it directly behind that opening...
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:35 PM   #1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
You can trim it to go around the charge pipes if you like, but we do not.

Looks like everything worked out okay in that area. I did not have to trim the deflection shield and it still bolted back on.
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Old 04-04-2015, 04:24 PM   #1988
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Question for the guys running a moto-east tune on the JRSC kit, what Rev limit is optimal? 7850,8050 or 8150? Keeping in mind my car will have a lighter flywheel and lightened pulleys.
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