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Old 09-15-2013, 12:30 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodyo View Post
2) The fluid pump mentioned will NOT fit on the MOTUL 300 bottle. You may not need the pump for the transmission, but you will need it for the differential (unless I missed something).

!

With the Motul bottle I didn't need a pump for the diff. It has a spout and you just squeeze the bottle into the fill hole sort of like squeezing toothpaste out of the tube. Worked fine.

Only thing I did stupid was over torque the crush washer but so far no leaks.
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:12 AM   #58
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thats becuause they are not crush washers , the transmission does not have any.
So we just need 2 for the diff and can reuse the one from the trans?
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:48 AM   #59
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yes i believe that would be fine , when you take the fill/drain plugs out youll see how "thick"the washers are now i dont think you can constantly reuse them but i think they can hold their shape for about to tq loads. maybe more. but they do look solid.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #60
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yes i believe that would be fine , when you take the fill/drain plugs out youll see how "thick"the washers are now i dont think you can constantly reuse them but i think they can hold their shape for about to tq loads. maybe more. but they do look solid.

Probably true but the service manual calls for them to be replaced. There is no warning should the manual tranny oil level drop low, I think it best to just replace them $15 s $7k for a new tranny only makes since for the peace of mind.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:33 PM   #61
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Probably true but the service manual calls for them to be replaced. There is no warning should the manual tranny oil level drop low, I think it best to just replace them $15 s $7k for a new tranny only makes since for the peace of mind.
such as why i said maybe only used twice maybe more before they are to warped from applied tq to hold their seal "anything and everything" is solely up to your "owner" 's discretion , if you want to replace your tires at 5/32 instead of 2 or 3/32 that's fine or if you wanna replace your brakes 2-6000k miles prior before needing attention that's ok too. not to mention your about 4-5k off on a new transmission.
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:21 AM   #62
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I just wanted to chime in with a tip as I'll be doing this DIY next week:

Always remove the fill bolt first before removing the drain bolt on any vehicle. Reason being, if your fill bolt so happens to be seized (unlikely in such a new car) you will not be left stranded in your garage. I learned the hard way on my previous car.
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:19 PM   #63
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Sorry if I miss something.. Are transmission and LSD sharing the same type of fluid?

I'm going to use Motul Gear 300
In this case I just have do buy enough fluid, 2.2L + 1.3L, for both systems right?

TIA
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:20 PM   #64
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I just wanted to chime in with a tip as I'll be doing this DIY next week:

Always remove the fill bolt first before removing the drain bolt on any vehicle. Reason being, if your fill bolt so happens to be seized (unlikely in such a new car) you will not be left stranded in your garage. I learned the hard way on my previous car.
Thanks so much, yes it would be a nightmare.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:46 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by empower-auto View Post
anyone get a little more noise when using this fluid in the tranny?
I got a little more noise in neutral which seemed weird. I have the Perrin Transmission bolt though so I am already getting a bit more noise anyway. After a quick test run and placing it in neutral I didn't notice the same noise again.

Time will Tell...
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:37 PM   #66
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Replaced my transmission oil over the weekend. Didn't bother with a torque wrench, just used a long hex key. Most difficult part was crawling under the car and ending up with a sore neck the next day.

One thing I noticed was that when tightening the underbody panel bolts at the end of the job, if you over-do it the fibreglass kinda gets squished very easily, and I think if you removed and replaced this often, it might eventually tear. So what I did was placed some wide flat washers for the bolts to spread the load and hold it a little better.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:00 AM   #67
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I may be wrong, but the fiberglass undercarriage isn't supposed to be sandwiched by the bolts to the frame (or whatever it attaches to). It has clearance holes for the bolt that has a built in spacer. So it floats between the head of the bolt and where the spacer starts.

At least that's how mine was.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:50 AM   #68
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yup i know what you're saying...but my observation was that if you tightened these bolts too much, the fibreglass tray may get deformed. Basically I fitted an extra washer which is wider than the 'built-in' washer on the bolt.

Moral of the story is, do not tighten these bolts too much and you'll be fine
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:05 AM   #69
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Any insight on which is better? Motul gear 300 75w90 vs Redline MT90
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:15 AM   #70
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Changed my trans and diff fluid today (4,000 miles), and noticed that the trans fluid was dark brown, but there really wasn't too much on the magnet (see below), with a few larger metal shavings. However, the diff fluid looked much cleaner (kind of red-ish), but there was a lot more "gunk" on the magnet.

Replaced both with Motul Gear 300





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