Oil system mods for more pressure and flow.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ermax

Seriously and no way to torque them or anything. I just banged that crap out of my impact drive and crossed my fingers.

Countersunk screws are not appropriate for rigid joints like this. The tolerance required for proper fit is just stupid. Practically unattainable.


Inevitably some screws will bind before they fully tighten.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

The plates are flexing. I had them as tight as I could get them safely, any tighter and they would strip. I can not get the gauge in there until I apply pressure. The Small plate didn't seem to leak quite as much, but the oil pump leaks quite a bit, enough to blow the feeler gauge away.

Cold start pressure at high idle is easily 120 psi. Hard bypass is at 140.

[Calum]

About the oil gallery to nowhere, could it possibly be there for some sort of resonance tuning? Also, is there room to make those plates stiffer or otherwise seal those properly?


Thank you so much for actually sharing your research.

[remhex]

would heating the screws in an oven prior to tightening help?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

If your talking about the galley with the blue plug that feeds the drivers head and the roller for the high pressure fuel pump. I have it plugged in this picture to hold the air pressure for testing.
I also said earlier that it also feeds the tensioner but the upper tensioner is fed by the main feed.

This is what I was referring to.

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Also plugged the oil gallery that leads to nowhere eliminating an Oring between case halves.

[ermax]

Bump... any updates? Is it back up and running yet? The suspense is killing me, I need to see those numbers. Hahaha

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I notice on mine that no matter how high the initial oil pressure, the profile of pressure-vs-engine speed is always exactly the same. After about 5000 RPM it just sharply says "Nope. That's it." I've guessed that it was cavitation but opted instead for carefully controlling oil temp to keep pressure above 75 PSI.

I have the exact same issue. Mine craps out at about 5800. I will be trying some of these mods on my spare motor and will be curious to know what the inside of the oil pump looks like on my current motor. I don't feel comfortable boosting the car until I can get the oil pressure up a bit.

@solidsnake11 Element didn't post what they were doing to get the oil pressure up because they are selling it as a mod.

Do you think it would be a good idea to slightly extend the length of the oil pickup tube and bell the bottom a bit in addition to moving the screen to the bottom? I notice on track that with moderate to high G cornering if the oil level is not at least at the full mark when hot it will starve for oil.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I'm not so sure on modding oil pickup tube to be wider at the bottom it is already loosing prime if the oil runs away. If you put the screen at the bottom use a pickup that is covered with a hole in the center.
If your tracking your car it might be better to deal with the accumulator.

I was afraid of that. I know most are tracking without an accumulator but it is an option as safe is more important to me. I can pay to play but my budget is not unlimited. I think my biggest issue is there is likely stuff stuck in the screen on the OE pickup. My oil pressure seems abnormally low, even for this motor. I also have a suspicion that my pressure sending unit is in a bad spot or protruding and causing an abnormal reading. Until I can swap in my spare later this spring I won't be able to tear it down.

[sam69]

Been watching this thread with interest and have ported all the galleries in the timing cover and also drilled and tapped 4mm high tensile metal thread cap screws to help hold the cover plates down .


Hopefully will help stop oil bleeding from the cover plates .

[sam69]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Fantastic! The oil pump cover also has some wide spaces that leak.

Been looking at that and have put a cap screw (metal thread) right where the oil delivery from the oil pump enters the main gallery to the filter but might do more yet as I could well imagine the oil pump cover plate flexing and bleeding oil.


This could be some of the issue with the cavitation pics that have been posted .

[sam69]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Fantastic! The oil pump cover also has some wide spaces that leak.

Been doing more research on the oil pump cover plate so even though I've added a couple more fixings to it I thought I'd check just how well it seals so did a test with bearing blue .


Put the blue on and fixed plate down then removed and wiped excess off the cover plate then bolted it back on, did this a few times so I got rid of excess and could see where the surfaces mated properly.


As can be seen this thing would leak like a SIEVE as the main areas that mate up are only where the fixing screws are and there is bugger all touching around the area where the suction gallery comes from the sump and numerous other areas .
I'm sure this could be the cause of some if not all of the cavitation erosion shown earlier in this thread .


Have come up with a couple of scenarios to hopefully fix this but if anyone has any suggestions please chime in as this motor is not going together like it is .


Have ported all the galleries as far as sharp corners/edgers etc and this should help flow quite a bit.

[RayRay88]

This may sound stupid, but has anyone tried to tighten down those Phillips head screws with an impact screwdriver? I found it was the best way to tighten/loosen stubborn screws without stripping them.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

This may sound stupid, but has anyone tried to tighten down those Phillips head screws with an impact screwdriver? I found it was the best way to tighten/loosen stubborn screws without stripping them.

I used an impact to get mine out and back in. I suspect that is how everyone does it.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by sam69

Have come up with a couple of scenarios to hopefully fix this but if anyone has any suggestions please chime in as this motor is not going together like it is .

Seems like a rubber gasket or FIPG should have been used on these plates. Even better, some sort of tongue and groove with light FIPG in the groove.