Cosworth Supercharger Owners Thread

[gtengr]

Originally Posted by gahooligan

Something I learned that others may disagree with, take it for what its worth... It's been said that a catch can is not needed with this kit. I ran a UPR can from my other vehicles. It caught a lot of oil. I can also 100% guarantee you that if you overfill this engine in the slightest it will push more oil than you can believe out the PCV... With a 1/2 a quart or less overfilled, running high rpms and boost at a track day, I completely filled the can. To the point it was sucking in into the intake and smoking badly. Once i fixed the oil level, never had the problem again. I was always EXTREMELY careful after that to not overfill, even in the slightest. Run a can and never overfill. My $.02.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Did you run a catch can on just the PCV line? From reading it sounds like a waste to run one on the crankcase hose too.

From reading the forums it seems many favor CC's, while some don't run them and don't report any issues. Some have mentioned that it may be variance in the PCV from car-to-car. I was averse to installing one initially, but if the MAF is getting dirty prematurely and I don't have an oiled air filter, then I think this must be the issue. I rubbed the MAF housing with my fingers when cleaning it, trying to tell if there was a film of any sorts on it, but it didn't seem dirty. However, hitting it with the spray cleaner did fix the car right up. I'm going to wait a few more miles and see if the P0172 code comes back, and if so will put a can on the PCV side.

[Cosworth_0686]

I've gotten the radiator mounted, however the front of the left side is touching up at the top end of the radiator. Even the slightest touch causes it to knock against the metal in front of it. I can only imagine that if the car were running/driving, the natural vibrations of such would cause a loud rattle. Any suggestions? The right side, however, seems to have plenty of clearance.

[Rich196]

Originally Posted by Cosworth_0686

I've gotten the radiator mounted, however the front of the left side is touching up at the top end of the radiator. Even the slightest touch causes it to knock against the metal in front of it. I can only imagine that if the car were running/driving, the natural vibrations of such would cause a loud rattle. Any suggestions? The right side, however, seems to have plenty of clearance.

Try loosening the bolts slightly and sliding it left or right to see if you get some clearance both sides. Failing that take it off put the mount in the vice and give it a little tweak.

Lastly put some adhesive foam on bumper where it will hit, at least you know it wont rattle!

[Cosworth_0686]

Gently twisting at the radiator mounts provided enough clearance so that it seems that it shouldn't rattle while running.

Now that I'm on step 8, I'm running into an issue with hose 10 (LTR bleed). As mine is a left-hand-drive car, I installed the intercooler services assembly on the right hand side. I still need to cut hose 1 down to its proper length, though hose 10 doesn't seem as though it will reach its tank, as it looks like it's only long enough to reach where it would be installed on the left side for a RHD car.

Does anyone have any good pictures for how they routed their hoses on a LHD car?
Thanks

[sly]

Originally Posted by Cosworth_0686

Does anyone have any good pictures for how they routed their hoses on a LHD car?
Thanks

I don't have any pictures and it's too dark to go out and get some, but I remember having this problem. It seems like there is a long, unnumbered hose that I used for the bleeder hose. Hose 10 is too short to reach around and is probably just for a RHD car. I don't think I used hose 10. Running the hoses was my least favorite part of this install. It took a lot of trial and error to get them routed without kinking. It seems like I never could get all the kink out of hoses 8 and 9. They are not folded flat but still have a small amount of kink to them. It doesn't affect cooling though.

When you go to bleed the system, it will be foamy for awhile until you get all the air out. I found that opening the bleeder screws on the back of the IC and squeezing the hoses got a lot of the air out. I had to top off the reservoir for about 1 day after the install so keep a bottle of antifreeze with you and check it often.

When you get to putting the intake on, I highly recommend removing the 3 bolts that hold on the AC compressor. It's easy to get to now and if you move it out of the way, it will make putting the intake on much easier. Also use hose clamps on every hose. The kit doesn't come with enough for everything but I found that was the source of my lean code I mentioned earlier. The PCV hose, EVAP hose and crankcase breather hose (located under the AC compressor) all need hose clamps. Also, don't overtighten the hose clamp on the air box or you will deform it and get a leak.

[Seba]

Originally Posted by eMCee

Hi sly,

It was a default one that came with the kit. I belive it's 70mm.

Standart pulley is dark grey and is made of aluminum. Smaller pulley is made of steel.

I have ordered a smaller pulley today.

[Seba]

Originally Posted by gtengr

I use ecutek and a laptop

I was thinking about ecutec connect but I can only record logs with it.

[gtengr]

Originally Posted by gtengr

Removed the MAF, cleaned it (didn't appear dirty), and the car runs great again. I get the feeling this isn't over though. Why would a MAF with 11k miles on it (always stock airbox and filter) be dirty? Are the oil vapors from the PCV able to travel upstream during certain throttle conditions and foul it?

The P0172 came back with the rough running, and again a little MAF cleaner on the MAF and the car is back to running smooth.

I think the restrictive stock filter plus the air the supercharger is trying to move with the hbp and CS400 is creating a lot of vacuum in the intake tract, and possibly pulling extra vapor through the crankcase and/or PCV hoses. I can't think of how else the MAF would be getting dirty. I went to swap the stock air filter for a high flow one, but was sent the wrong part so will have to wait again to test. I'm kind of glad the part was wrong because the air filter is smaller than I was expecting (measured ~9.3" x ~4.5" = 41.6 sq in, I was expecting ~50 sq in, ignoring the pleats), so I'm going to need a CAI regardless.

Originally Posted by Kodename47

I've gone Airaid on the Sprintex. As this uses the OEM airbox too, it can be made to fit and no bumper removal required. I think the Skunk2 offering could be made to work as well. Most other intake kits move the MAF to the replacement tube so aren't an option.

I think I'm going to go with the Airaid as it looks to have more filter area than the Skunk2. Is the Airaid inlet connection in the same location as stock or is extension/trimming required?

[Cosworth_0686]

I spent a while today reworking just how I was planning to route the hoses (or, at least some of them..) and using the un-numbered one in place of 10 certainly helped. As for hoses 8 and 9, mine seemed like they were going to be kinking a lot, but it ended up that the header tank bracket had been upside down (working off of a black and white print of the instructions can be a pain, lol). Once I flipped that, hoses 8 and 9 seemed to line up better, though 1 and "10" seemed like they were still going to kink a lot. Rather than cutting them down as the instructions mention, I let them loop around a bit more than visually-pleasing, though I don't think they'll kink. My dad said that in the past, he's bent some new brake line into the shape he wanted and then worked a radiator hose around it so that it could keep the desired shape without kinking, though I'm not sure about doing that for this project.
Hose 11 looks like it's in the right spot, though hose 12 differs from where the line is pointing in the instructions on page 38.

[sly]

Originally Posted by Cosworth_0686

Hose 11 looks like it's in the right spot, though hose 12 differs from where the line is pointing in the instructions on page 38.

Hose 12 is your crankcase breather hose. You will need to disconnect the old crankcase hose just to the left of 12, under your AC pump in your picture and be sure to reuse the hose clamps. The other end of hose 12 goes to the passenger side near the firewall. This will connect to the metal inlet tube once installed. Also use hose clamps. I learned the hard way. It looks like you have hose 12 routed in the right direction. However you might want to put it on top of the other hoses and wires. You need the extra slack to reach back to the inlet hose and you don't want to have to fish it out later.

Hose 11 is your PCV hose that connects to the throttle body that will go on the back of the engine. You have this hose routed to the driver side for now but it will also be on the passenger side. Once your intake manifold is on and the throttle body is in place, there is a hose barb on the passenger side of the throttle body that this hose attaches to. So you might want to move hose 11 back toward the firewall temporarily as it will be connected later to the throttle body. Also, use hose clamps on both ends of this hose. It will have vacuum on it from the engine and you don't want a vacuum leak.

Your hose "10" has more than enough length. I ended up cutting mine and still have enough silicon hose left over for installing my Oil Catch Can next weekend. Hose "10" routed to the back of the engine and is laying on the bell housing of the transmission.

One important thing to note is that hoses 3 and 4 need to be on the inside of the intercooler. Hoses 5 and 6 will be on the outside. Right now you have hose 4 all the way on the driver's side. It will actually connect more toward the middle, just to the left of hose 5. So hose 4 on the left and hose 5 on the right from the picture. Hose 6 on the left and hose 3 on the right.

[botbs]

Originally Posted by Matt@Cosworth

in terms of power as long as its at least 2.5" diameter pipe and straight through silencers then they are all very close

however in terms of noise they are very different
Ti systems are very nice but expensive and with the charger you're shifting a lot more air than stock so I'd consider something with a larger silencer volume if you want to save your eardrums

Hi Matt,

Would 60mm (2.35") work? Most Japanese made cat-back are 60mm in diameter.

I want to save my eardrums too and I prefer a quiet exhaust too, Thanks!

Would any of these work? or They are still "restrictive"? Thanks!

Fujitsubo Authorize R

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-s-brz-86.html

Blitz C-TI

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-fr-s-brz.html

Greddy Supreme SP

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-fr-s-brz.html

HKS Legamax

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-2013-brz.html

Thanks

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by botbs

Hi Matt,

Would 60mm (2.35") work? Most Japanese made cat-back are 60mm in diameter.

I want to save my eardrums too and I prefer a quiet exhaust too, Thanks!

Would any of these work? or They are still "restrictive"? Thanks!

Fujitsubo Authorize R

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-s-brz-86.html

Blitz C-TI

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-fr-s-brz.html

Greddy Supreme SP

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-fr-s-brz.html

HKS Legamax

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/exha...-2013-brz.html

Thanks

I had the HKS Legamax Sport on my previous Cosworth FR-S and it ran just fine! You might lose a couple horses but honestly it was worth it for the sound.

[gahooligan]

Originally Posted by gtengr

Did you run a catch can on just the PCV line? From reading it sounds like a waste to run one on the crankcase hose too.

From reading the forums it seems many favor CC's, while some don't run them and don't report any issues. Some have mentioned that it may be variance in the PCV from car-to-car. I was averse to installing one initially, but if the MAF is getting dirty prematurely and I don't have an oiled air filter, then I think this must be the issue. I rubbed the MAF housing with my fingers when cleaning it, trying to tell if there was a film of any sorts on it, but it didn't seem dirty. However, hitting it with the spray cleaner did fix the car right up. I'm going to wait a few more miles and see if the P0172 code comes back, and if so will put a can on the PCV side.

Only ran a can on the PCV side. The crankcase side i ran to an open filter and capped the intake nipple. If you keep having to clean the maf, that setup is worth a try.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by gtengr

I think I'm going to go with the Airaid as it looks to have more filter area than the Skunk2. Is the Airaid inlet connection in the same location as stock or is extension/trimming required?

I had to buy a silicone coupler (reducer) as the one that comes with it didn't fit.