Combating the heat

[mkivsoopra]

Originally Posted by rb6freak

Buttonwillow 6/27, hottest session of the day (about 100F ambient) temperature results:

- PTuning turbo at 9 psi
- 15 minutes on track
- PTuning laminova cooler
- Setrab series 9 15 row
- Koyo aluminium racing radiator w/ Redline water wetter, 70% distilled water / 30% OEM coolant.
- All -10AN oil ports and hose
- Oil lines routed through air cooler then water cooler before returning to engine
- Everything else OEM as related to cooling setup.

Peak IAT: 123F
Peak Coolant: 240F
Peak RPM: 7443
Peak MPH: 105
Peak Oil: 237F
Peak EGT: 1452F

Avg IAT: 108F
Avg Coolant: 219F
Avg RPM: 5164
Avg MPH: 69
Avg Oil: 213
Avg EGT: 1374F


I'm quite satisfied with this setup as my city street driving is anywhere from 180-200F oil temp. Water is a little warmer than I like for summer track days, but I can live with these results for sure.


@CSG Mike

@sw20kosh

@mkivsoopra

Bring down that coolant temp and you'll be golden.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by rb6freak

Buttonwillow 6/27, hottest session of the day (about 100F ambient) temperature results:

- PTuning turbo at 9 psi
- 15 minutes on track
- PTuning laminova cooler
- Setrab series 9 15 row
- Koyo aluminium racing radiator w/ Redline water wetter, 70% distilled water / 30% OEM coolant.
- All -10AN oil ports and hose
- Oil lines routed through air cooler then water cooler before returning to engine
- Everything else OEM as related to cooling setup.

Peak IAT: 123F
Peak Coolant: 240F
Peak RPM: 7443
Peak MPH: 105
Peak Oil: 237F
Peak EGT: 1452F

Avg IAT: 108F
Avg Coolant: 219F
Avg RPM: 5164
Avg MPH: 69
Avg Oil: 213
Avg EGT: 1374F


I'm quite satisfied with this setup as my city street driving is anywhere from 180-200F oil temp. Water is a little warmer than I like for summer track days, but I can live with these results for sure.


@CSG Mike

@sw20kosh

@mkivsoopra

That 240 water temp would worry me. That is blow your motor type temp in an S2000.

[rb6freak]

Originally Posted by King Tut

That 240 water temp would worry me. That is blow your motor type temp in an S2000.

Been doing up to 240 water for 2 summers, its been OK so far. The single water temp sensor is where the coolant is returned from the turbo feed so it is inflated a few degrees at least because of this. I've actually proven this too. 240 only peaked for literally a brief few milliseconds (3 lines on ecuTek log), that's also why I included the average from first hot lap till last hot lap. CSG Mike has been telling me to get fancier radiator fans - I'll look into that for next summer as I'm not out to the track again until October right now.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Kayshart

Any point in upgrading the radiator fan?
On the track, the high speeds will push more air than the fan can handle right?

A powerful fan will pull more air than can be pushed by speed; we use two of them.

[Tye300]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

A powerful fan will pull more air than can be pushed by speed; we use two of them.

What fans would you suggest?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Tye300

What fans would you suggest?

We use the SPAL 12" paddle blade pull fan. You'll need a shroud (which we make) to use them, as well as external relays. They pull THAT much air and power.

Depending on your setup, you may need to trim the fan housing for clearance (the actual blades and function are uncompromised).

Medium or smaller fans do not need any trimming.

[glamcem]

Has anyone else used the Cosworth low temp thermostat before? it became out of stock as soon as I ordered and I searched but couldn't find any other site that sells this individually (without the Cosworth power packages), I will soon install this when I replace the OEM header with the new header and will try running 30/70 mix to keep the coolant temps a bit low.. in theory, it should also help the OEM sandwich plate that come with the DIT OEM oil cooler.. I will report back, I have some other projects too but I will see if time will allow

[Kiske]

My project over this summer has been focus on cooling my setup so hopefully next year I can get back to the track without any fears of issues. So far cooling looks like.

FBM Radiator
Low-Temp Mishimoto thermostat
Subaru OEM Oil Cooler/ Laminova
Spal 12' Slim Fans and Aluminum shroud
Custom 19row Setrab oil cooler/almost identical to the full blown kit w/o the thermo. plate and using mishimoto 2015 wrx adaptor to work with the oem oil cooler.
MAP large capacity Oil Pan
PTP Lave Blanket and DEI Titanium wrapped everything.

Honestly I was a bit disappointed with this setup each part has its flaws but with a few cosmetic mods it has made a huge difference.

-I can't really give a before/after on the radiator and fans because I installed them at the same time as my turbo kit. At least I wouldn't have to worry about the fans melting now. Also the FBM radiator will give you more room due to the offset mounting tabs more space between it and the turbo.
-Didn't notice any difference with the thermostat and fan should. My coolant temps seem the same... though I haven't really checked a log on them. Just going by the stock cluster gauge.
-The oem cooler gave me slightly quicker warmup and I ran around 5*F cooler overall. When I beat on the car temps still rocketed but cooldown was quicker.
-The FBM style cooler is tucked away out of the airflow. The improved oil capacity is very noticible as are the increased warm up times. I averaged 10-13*F cooler in addition to the oem cooler. Getting the car past 230F became difficult so a much improvement there. However like the OEM cooler it can quickly become heatsoaked without airflow.
-MAP oil pan... didn't really notice any difference probably because my oil cooler already increasing the capacity. Last oil change was almost 9qts though. I however did notice an improvement in the old oil's quailty during my last oil change. With 7k miles it was much 'newer' looking than the black stuff I took out pre-oil cooler.
-PTP blanket and DEI wrap are a huge must... the only way you can work on your engine without having to wait hours post drive... without oven mits.

My last 2 changes are in the works. I've been waiting 8 fucking months for my varis hood to arrive after the dipshit delivery driver cracked the first one unloading it. (He walked it off the truck instead of using the lift gate or simply carrying it.)

In the meantime I've been playing with airflow since my 2nd project allowed it. My first try was cutting out a slit on the BRZ's mustashe (along the body line) to increase airflow. My theory was that the intercooler was buffering out airflow that my a/c and radiator were once getting full advantage of. My just happened to come right above the OEM low-speed impact foam asorber and just below the full blown intake's location~ Perfect! A quick test and I didn't really notice anything, slightly cooler but as I was doing the test the sun was setting and the temp slightly with it.

My second try was removing the the foam crash asorber and cutting out the grille. This made a huge difference suprisingly... which I wasn't expecting since I didn't remove the OEM crash bar itself. I'm guessing this allowed air to flow wherever it could go after hitting the metal crash bar.



I decided to take it a step further and completely cut out all of the OEM black grille. The top mustashe and the surround that made up around 2" of the surface area. This made a ungodly difference. Having cut out the lower grilles surround meant my oil cooler behind the foglight was getting air for the first time. Remove the upper mustashe gave a huge increase in incoming airflow. Allowing air to move OVER the crash bar and directly to my radiator in addition to through the intercooler that way. With this setup I could hardly get the car warm enough. 20min of highway driving and back-to-back pulls and I could barely get past 176FF... when I stopped and idled at the lights the temp would climb but soon as airflow hit the front oil temps dropped to right at 180F.

So with the front completely removed I also enounters crazy pressures resulting in my hood fluttering any time I approach 75mph+. The varis hood should take care of that allowing the air somewhere to go. In the meantime I pulled a page from Reaper and remove the rear hood seal.

So slightly overcooling, lack of engine bay venting and the front looks like poo when your closer than 10' away. I'm faily certain I've got this part beat and can hit the track next year with zero fear. Hopefully I can finish up my custom grill to knock back the overcooling and my hood to show up to solve the pressure venting(as well as help reduce temps while stationary.

[BRZoomTX]

Originally Posted by Kiske

My project over this summer has been focus on cooling my setup so ....

I foresaw the same issues, so I cut my fenders ahead of time to help with pressure and act as functional heat extractors. Combined with the hood vents I have zero flutter with an open front bumper.

You can check out pics on my Instagram here:

https://instagram.com/brzoomtx

[chaoskaze]

I remember someone is selling a cooling skid plate... I remember seeing the graph & all......Anyone remember who made it?

[crazyfrenchbiker]

Beatrush makes one.

http://www.kamispeed.com/Beatrush-Al...br.s564000.htm

[Tye300]

Originally Posted by crazyfrenchbiker

Beatrush makes one.

http://www.kamispeed.com/Beatrush-Al...br.s564000.htm

That looks good!

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Has anyone else used the Cosworth low temp thermostat before? it became out of stock as soon as I ordered and I searched but couldn't find any other site that sells this individually (without the Cosworth power packages)

Nope. But mishimoto makes one.

[ofuts]

When i touch the hood after a drive, middle of the hood is cool, sides and corners are hot, especially around headlamp and top of fenders. That makes me think hot air circulated in the engine bay finds an air flow through sides, starting near headlamps and go through a closed line out of the engine bay, and gets out from the corners of the black plastic (they are flexible and cut. they are olso relatively hotter after a drive) next to the windshield.
But the reason center of the hood is colder might be because of the woven spongy heat shield kind of thing under the hood.

I really dont want to get a vented hood because they look too aggressive. So considering fender garnish vents these days again but want to make sure if they will be effective enough.
I know fender garnish vents efficiency had been discussed many times before, and that there is no low pressure area there so it is not so effective. But never read anything related to that "hot line".
It might be close to a vented hood in terms of efficiency if there really is an air flow at the sides and can be directed out of these fender garnishes with a small duct.
Anyone has an idea about that?