Problems at high milage?

[Dadhawk]

117K miles, build date 2/2012, delivery Early May 2012.

Nothing I consider a real issue. Like @Tcoat mine is all original, including plugs, etc. (with the exception of fluids and tires). Well, I did have the fuel pump replaced under warranty just because I could (the cricket issue). Not really sure I had crickets.

I do have weepy tail lights and I most likely need brake pads (light just came on this AM for about 10 seconds).

The tail lights would be fixed by a new gasket I haven't installed yet, as I need to dry them out first.

Looking forward to at least another 150K miles out of it.

[Vides990]

At roughly ~115k miles now. Did upgraded clutch at ~100k and now doing rotors/pads for the first time (upgrading those too), leaky boot on the differential so that's getting done, and finally needed a new battery. Other then that just been oil changes/wipers/tires/fluids as needed, these are reliable cars if you take care of them, no doubt.

[HKz]

https://www.consumerreports.org/car-...reliable-cars/

as long as the car drives fine and the gearbox feels good don't think there is much to worry about besides maintenance items..

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by ermax

When he is referring to knock he is referred no to detonation. The knock I think you are referring to is rod knock. Obviously both are bad. Detonation will eventually lead to rod knock.

The early 2013 cars had a bad tune which caused detonation and was also causing the injector seals to go bad. This was fixed with a new tune which can be applied to any 2013.

^that's what I meant. I do not have rod knock but do have detonation at times but only under hard conditions. I monitor it and usually mixing in some 100 Oct fixes the problem (I'm in CA so this gets me to 93 Oct vs. the crappy 91 I got)

Originally Posted by ApexEight

What do you mean by knocky tunes?

Also, do you know when the coil packs were updated?

Lastly, I seem to hear a very faint knocking noise from the engine but it's only just started happening on these cold mornings. I haven't noticed it at all when the car is warmed up. It is very quiet. I've also noticed a little oil consumption, about half quart in about 5K miles. Car runs beautifully. Any ideas? You say your car knocks, isn't that really bad, like the motor is going out?

I don't know about the coil packs. I haven't loss one yet but now that I am tracking I am tossing it in with the wear items. Heat kills them from what I have seen.


I don't really have a ton of oil issues. My timing cover has been leaking for a while, but not bad enough to get it fixed. And the blowby is enough to measure in the catch can but not enough to see a loss between changes (I usually change my oil between 5k and 10k depending on what kind of driving I've been doing)


I do know a few other local owners who experience faint rod knock on cold start and they are around 60-70k miles on the car. Not sure how fast it is progressing for them though. Both of them track occasionally as well, like 3-4 times a year.

[ApexEight]

Thanks for the repiles guys. I'm hoping this discussion is helpful to OP.

I think my issue is more of a piston slap issue. The "knocking noise" is only present on really cold startups and has just started with the cold weather coming in. Non-existent when the car is warmed up. I'm going to try to get a video

[ermax]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Thanks for the repiles guys. I'm hoping this discussion is helpful to OP.

I think my issue is more of a piston slap issue. The "knocking noise" is only present on really cold startups and has just started with the cold weather coming in. Non-existent when the car is warmed up. I'm going to try to get a video

Yeah sounds like rod knock. Dang that sucks. It will eventually get worse and then one day you will be winding it to redline and end up with constant knock when not under load. At that point the damage could be more than a simply bearing replacement. I’ve been there done that on a few cars. You hear it at cold start and think, “I really need to tear this thing down and replace the bearing(s)” ... “Nah, not in the mood for such a big job, I will do it in the winter” next think you know it totally spins a bearing and now you are potentially replacing a rod or crank. I did price out the rods and crank and they are reasonably priced. So that’s exciting.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

My 2017 makes a light knocking noise on warm up since it got colder here too. Didn't think anything of it. It's not there when I drive off. Should I be worried?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

My 2017 makes a light knocking noise on warm up since it got colder here too. Didn't think anything of it. It's not there when I drive off. Should I be worried?

No. Cars make weird noise until they warm up. It doesn't mean they are being harmed. Just don't go hot-rodding until it reaches operating temperatures.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ermax

Yeah sounds like rod knock. Dang that sucks. It will eventually get worse and then one day you will be winding it to redline and end up with constant knock when not under load. At that point the damage could be more than a simply bearing replacement. I’ve been there done that on a few cars. You hear it at cold start and think, “I really need to tear this thing down and replace the bearing(s)” ... “Nah, not in the mood for such a big job, I will do it in the winter” next think you know it totally spins a bearing and now you are potentially replacing a rod or crank. I did price out the rods and crank and they are reasonably priced. So that’s exciting.

Wow that is quite the conclusion to come up with based on the minuscule info provided.
Cold engine can knock it does not automatically lead to blowing them up.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Wow that is quite the conclusion to come up with based on the minuscule info provided.

Cold engine can knock it does not automatically lead to blowing them up.

You should NEVER have rod knock. Not even cold. Sure there are different noises on a cold start but it should NOT be rod knock. What he is hearing may not be rod knock. But the early stages of a rod bearing going will be herd on cold start.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ermax

You should NEVER have rod knock. Not even cold. Sure there are different noises on a cold start but it should NOT be rod knock. What he is hearing may not be rod knock. But the early stages of a rod bearing going will be herd on cold start.

Just saying it is a little early to assume it is rod knock at all.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Just saying it is a little early to assume it is rod knock at all.

True, but I definitely wouldn’t write it off and ignore it. That is all I was getting at. Something cheap to fix ($26 rod bearing) can turn into catastrophic failure (rod, crank or maybe block). Lots of labor though.

[Decep]

Curious as to how the suspensions hold up on these cars. Hopefully not like a lot of BMWs where the bushings are shot after 60K.

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by Decep

Curious as to how the suspensions hold up on these cars. Hopefully not like a lot of BMWs where the bushings are shot after 60K.

Mine still feels great 72K in. But then, I don't track it, so it hasn't had the abuse some others have had.