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01-24-2016, 06:31 PM | #1 |
Shadetree Project Ratchet
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DIY Homebrew Calsonic Oil Cooler
Stuff you need:
1x 86-91 FC Mazda Rx-7 stock oil cooler. This oil cooler is made by Calsonic. It has 7 rows with an internal thermostatic bypass to help warm up the oil. The stock bypass closes at 65C/149F. I suggest replacing the pallet if you get a used oil cooler. After all, it's most likely going to be well over 30 years old now. When they fail, they stick closed and do not bypass the oil cooler, so you'll get slow warm-ups or may never make to normal operating temperature. You can get new oil coolers and thermostats here: http://www.mazdatrix.com/b6.htm Top Gear top tip: New oil coolers are absurdly expensive, and the AE86 and bosozoku fanboys like to use these coolers, so they sell the used ones for an unreasonably high price. The stock cooler isn't large enough to keep up with demands of 500WHP Rx-7 track monsters, so the Rx-7 guys tend to sell them at way lower prices. I mean, they came on every single FC, NA and Turbo alike. Derale 15732 thermostatic sandwich adapter [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Derale-15732-Thermostatic-Sandwich-Adapter/dp/B004XONTSO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435163095&sr=8-1&keywords=derale+15732"]Amazon.com: Derale 15732 Thermostatic Sandwich Adapter Kit: Automotive[/ame] Larger oil filter: K&N HP-2007 (1990-1995 Corvette ZR-1) [ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C427LO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=8JMY RGNQCLLU&coliid=I18LJ20IE2K3RR"]Amazon.com: K&N HP-2007 Performance Wrench-Off Oil Filter: Automotive[/ame] 2x 18mm to -10AN fittings from the oil cooler to your lines http://www.mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm 2x 3/8"NPT to -10AN fittings from the sandwich adapter to your lines [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002M9M5U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o08_s01"]Amazon.com: Earl's 981611 Blue Anodized Aluminum -10AN Male to 3/8" NPT Straight Adapter: Automotive[/ame] Then you need to make -10AN lines. I used socketless hose and fittings. I got away with 1 45* fitting and 3x 90* fittings. Your setup may require different fittings and angles depending on your intake, if you choose to use braided steel or nylon line, etc. I went with socketless hose because it's affordable, it fits to tighter bends than does braided, it looks stock, it's good to 250 PSI, and if NASCAR can use it, so can I. Note, I've never had a socketless fitting fail, but I have had braided fittings fail. Now to get to it: You'll have to modify the sandwich adapter. The bosses are a bit to large to fit on the block due to the drip lip on the oil filter pedestal. Instead of modifying my block/oil filter pedestal, I clearanced the sandwich adapter. Also, as @mit_peid pointed out: the stock sized oil filter o-ring does not fit the ring land on the adapter without a cover/adapter. I opted against using the cover/adapter and instead found a better oil filter. I found a few options, but for the sake of availability I chose to use the filter from a 1990-1995 Corvette ZR1. It has to be the one from the ZR1, as it used the LT5 engine and a different filter than the stock Vette. The K&N (HP-2007) is readily available in most auto parts stores, if you're in a pinch I have always found another brand available. The Derale also has a thermostatic valve, but if you live in a cold climate, I would not recommend using it with an oil cooler that doesn't have a thermostat because the Derale valve does not fully close, so some oil is always flowing through the oil cooler. Again, it's possible you'll get slow warm-ups or may never make it to normal operating temperature and get a check engine light. (There are some "kits" on the market that have had that issue) This is part of why I chose the FC cooler. Everything else is pretty self explanatory. You'll need to find a way to mount the oil cooler. If you can, use stock FC rubber bushings or some other rubber mounts. I have seen hard mounted oil coolers fail after a few months from cracking at the mounts. Then make your lines and put it all together. All in all, this cost me less than $225. It should cost you no more than $300. I had the oil cooler laying around from a few of my past projects. Lastly, I would consider this oil cooler near bullet proof. This cooler in particular was on at least 3 of my builds, probably more; I honestly cant remember. It has seen over 50k miles of abuse, over 2 full seasons of autocross, over two dozen drag events, umpteen dyno tuning sessions, and I installed it on my BRZ before I drove 2800 miles from LA to DC with my BRZ pulling a 1000 lb trailer. In the BRZ I have never seen temps go above 180*F. This includes my drive up I-17, from 1100 ft in Phoenix to 7000+ft in Flagstaff on a 115* day in August; not even after a long flogging down Angeles Forrest Highway, through the entire Angeles Crest Hwy, and finally through the AV desert on a 105* day, have I seen temps over 180*F. LMK if you have any questions. |
03-14-2016, 06:37 PM | #2 |
Canada Eh!
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Looks like I'm making my own kit. Parts have been ordered.
What did you use to grind down the sandwich plate? I also gave Derale a call to see what they could do about the filter adapter plate. He said he would get back to me tomorrow. Did you use two 90* fittings right off of the sandwich plate? I see that 45* fittings are commonly used... Wondering if Ill have fitment issues with the air box? |
03-14-2016, 09:05 PM | #3 | |
Shadetree Project Ratchet
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I used a grinding wheel to grind down the sandwich plate.
Quote:
I have the stock airbox and it fits with a 45 and a 90. You won't know what you'll need until you know what airbox you have and where you'll need to run the lines.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Hyper4mance2k For This Useful Post: | Joe-G (03-14-2016) |
03-14-2016, 11:32 PM | #4 | |
Canada Eh!
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Quote:
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions! I ended up calling them since they don't list it separately. Never came across any posts on whether or not someone was able to successfully acquire the plate on its own. Well, sandwich plate is on order... along with the K&N filter. This should be fun ... Thanks again! |
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03-17-2016, 04:52 PM | #5 |
Steve Bodalenko
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I have a couple of questions wth regard to the AN fittings mentioned in the DIY.
-10AN fittings are being used so 1. Is -10AN the ideal width for oil coolers? Obviously flow is important with regard to cooling but what about heating the oil faster in cold climates? Living in OZ with by mild winter temps and fuk'n hot summers temps, cooling takes preference over heating. 2. If -10AN isn't the ideal diameter, what is? Is there one or is location and yearly temps the decider? -10AN seems a little less easier to get than -8AN.. Great DIY by the way... Ordering my stuff from Amazon now. |
03-17-2016, 09:07 PM | #6 | |
Shadetree Project Ratchet
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Quote:
The larger the lines the less velocity in the lines and the less pressure. It's the same theory in fuel lines, the larger the line the more volume can flow, but the lower the pressure and velocity, GIVEN the same pump is used. I have no way of knowing the flow rates for the oil pump in our cars. If you use this oil pedestal, consider it has 3/8" NPT outlets, so a 3/8 to -10 is a huge transition, so it's not ideal, but it's better than running a 3/8" to -8 then finding -8 to -10 fitting for the oil cooler. That would have been even more money invested. I went with -10 because that's what my chosen oil cooler fittings are. Keep in mind. AN fittings are Army Navy standard, and the dash number is simply 16ths of an inch, so a -10 is 10/16" and -8 is 8/16", or 1/2". -10 lines are literally 1/4" larger than the 3/8" outlet on the pedestal. There is no ideal line size, it's application specific, like everything else in the tuning world. Heating the oil fast enough in the cold has 100% to do with whether you have thermostats in the system. Like I said, there is a thermostat in the Rx7 oil-cooler and one in the plate I used. This winter it was as cold as 10 degrees some mornings and my lol temps were up to 140*F within 5 minutes of startup.
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