DIY - Transmission / Diff Fluid Change Reference Guide

[F1point4]

Didn't see this one so here goes. @cobrabyte, @post_break and myself had a good time replacing out our gearbox and differential fluid over the weekend. Such a good time, we forgot to take most of the pictures.

As a result its just a reference guide, heh. Thanks to Adam at @No Limit Motorsport for the Motul Gear 300 fluid used. Much appreciation to Chris and Ryan for the garage and tools.


Tools needed
+ 10mm Hex bit socket like [ame="http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80660-2-Inch-Drive-Socket/dp/B002YKLA8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349660631&sr=8-1&keywords=10mm+allen+socket"]GearWrench 80660 1/2-Inch Drive Hex Bit Socket 10mm - Amazon.com[/ame]

+ 10mm socket
+ Ratchet
+ Torque Wrench
+ Fluid transfer pump if you aren't using Motul Gear 300 [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00"]Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump 4cc : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

+ Bucket or oil drain pan to catch disposed fluid
+ Rags

Parts needed
+ API GL-3 or better rated fluid for the transmission 2.2L
+ API GL-5 fluid for the differential 1.3L
+ Rear Differential Drain Crush Washer
+ Rear Differential Fill Crush Washer
+ 2 Crush Washers for the transmission

Thanks @PMok

Originally Posted by PMok

maybe OP can go ahead and post up these parts numbers for the crush gaskets in the original post -- can someone who's done this confirm these are the right part numbers?

Differential fill plug gasket: SU00300122 @$2.30 each
Differential drain plug gasket: TOY1215710010 @$1.50 each
Transmission fill/drain plug gasket: SU00303626 @>$11 each

I went to the Subaru dealer today and he said the Tranny fill/drain gaskets are $8 each so I ordered those, but he did not find any parts for the differential. If someone can confirm these are the right #s I will call him back and ask him to order these for me too. Will the TOY # work at Subaru?

Reference Pictures
These are out of the BRZ service manual courtesy of FT86club.com Yellow is relevant to this DIY

20121005-MotulGear300-DIYReference-BRZFluidChart by VictorN07, on Flickr

20121005-MotulGear300-DIYReference-BRZTransmission by VictorN07, on Flickr

20121005-MotulGear300-DIYReference-BRZDifferential by VictorN07, on Flickr

This is the reference picture for the transmission. Sorry I didn't get one of the diff. Toyota got hosed on branding in this car. They are a major shareholder in Aisin, the people who make this transmission and they don't even get their name on it. lol

20121005-MotulGear300-DIYReference by VictorN07, on Flickr

General Notes
Change the fluid when it's warm. Just be careful not to burn yourself from hot fluid.


Transmission Steps
1. Raise the car. A lift makes this 100x easier, but if you use stands, please lift the entire car onto stands to keep it level. Refer to @GrimmSpeed DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111
2. Remove only the black fiberglass shield. Refer to image from @GrimmSpeed DIY below

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

GrimmSpeed DIY Guide Series
Exhaust System/Exhaust Manifold Removal and Replacement
Updated 6/7/12



3. Next, remove the seven (7) 10mm bolts holding the second underbody panel to the chassis. Set both aside.




- Matt

3. Now you can see the transmission as in the picture above. The fill and drain bolt are on the drivers side. The fill bolt is above the drain bolt. Use the 10mm Hex Bit Socket to remove the Fill Bolt. It is a long bolt.
4. Ready the bucket. Use the 10mm Hex Bit Socket to remove the Drain Bolt. This is a short bolt so be ready to catch the exiting fluid. Let the fluid drain. The fluid will initially shoot out sideways so position the bucket/pan. The OEM fluid will smell terrible due to all the additives. My fluid was like normal oil, a dark brown.
5. When the fluid has completely drained, replace the washer on the drain bolt with a new crush washer purchased. We didn't buy the washers so we just flipped the old one around and reused it. Install the drain bolt and tighten.
6. If you are using the Motul Gear 300, it has a built in flexible nozzle that fits exactly in the fill hole. Otherwise install the fluid transfer pump and stick the hose into the transmission. Put in 2.2L of fluid or enough to make the fluid come out of the fill hole like in the picture.
7. @cobrabyte had a neat trick. The service manual says to fill until the bottom of the fill hole. Let the fluid weep out of the fill hole. The picture shows you the path of the fluid so you can lay your bucket or towel to catch the drip. WHen the weeping crawls to a near stop then you are pretty much perfect. Check by inserting your pinky into the fill hole. Slightly bend it down and you'll feel fluid right there. Wipe up the mess.
8. Replace the crush washer on the fill bolt ( or flip the existing one ) and install it. Torque both fill and drain bolts to the tightness indicated by the service manual using a torque wrench.
9. Replace the black fiberglass shield and lower the car.
Finished!




Differential Steps
1. Raise the car. A lift makes this 100x easier, but if you use stands, please lift the entire car onto stands to keep it level. Refer to @GrimmSpeed DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111
2. Remove the fill bolt from the side of the differential using a 10mm Hex bit socket. Refer to the service manual diagram above for the location. The service manual drawing is the view from the passenger side.
4. Ready the bucket. Use the 10mm Hex Bit Socket to remove the Drain Bolt on the bottom. Catch the resulting fluid. My fluid was red.
5. I wished I took a picture; the drain bolt is magnetic. Mine was covered in a thick layer of sludge/metal shavings. What the heck is going on in that diff!!! Wipe away the sludge/metal shavings.
6. When the diff fluid has completely drained, put on a new crush washer on the diff drain bolt and install it. We just flipped our washers over.
7. Put the new fluid into the fill hole. Again our Motul bottles had a nozzle; if yours doesn't use the fluid transfer pump. 1.3L should do it.
8. Use the same weep procedure as the transmission to get an exact fill. Double check with the pinky.
9. Replace the washer on the fill bolt and install it. Torque both fill and drain bolts to the tightness indicated in the service manual.
10. Lower the car and enjoy
Finished!

[Dave-ROR]

Great write-up! Adding to the directory if it hasn't been done already.

[SportInjected]

Nicely done DIY!

I will be changing both fluids very soon, and have a quick question about the fluid itself. I was looking at purchasing the Motul gear 300 75w90 (just like you used) when I ran across Motul gear 300 LS 75w90, which is specifically formulated for limited slip diffs, according to the website.

So, do I have to put the "LS" in the differential and is there a benefit in doing so, or should I just stick with the regular gear 300 in both the transmission and the differential?

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by SportInjected

So, do I have to put the "LS" in the differential and is there a benefit in doing so, or should I just stick with the regular gear 300 in both the transmission and the differential?

I don't know if the LS is required, but I do know that the Non-LS fluid meets the requirement of the diff. It's nice not having to worry about having separate fluid for each.

I have ran my car about 200 miles on the non-LS Gear 300 and so far so good. I'm sure others have run theirs longer without incident

[LeeMaster]

Thanks, what viscosity did you use for your tranny/rear diff? or does it not really matter?

[No Limit Motorsport]

Originally Posted by LeeMaster

Thanks, what viscosity did you use for your tranny/rear diff? or does it not really matter?

Use the 75W90 regular Gear 300 for both transmission and differential. The LS is not needed for the torsen type differential that these cars have. It will give no benefit.

This works to the users advantage too, because instead of having to buy 2 liters LS for the differential, and 3 liters for the transmission (5 liters total), you can just buy 4 liters of the same product.

[LeeMaster]

Originally Posted by No Limit Motorsport

Use the 75W90 regular Gear 300 for both transmission and differential. The LS is not needed for the torsen type differential that these cars have. It will give no benefit.

This works to the users advantage too, because instead of having to buy 2 liters LS for the differential, and 3 liters for the transmission (5 liters total), you can just buy 4 liters of the same product.

Ok, so I just want to ask to make sure.

Per manual
*API GL-3 fluid for the transmission 2.2L
*API GL-5 fluid for the differential 1.3L

BUT, youre saying that I should just use GL-3 for both rear diff and tranny since GL-5 dont give no extra benefits to the rear slip differential? Frankly, I dont understand the benefits of this. I might just stick to GL-5 unless you can convince me GL-3 works just as well as GL-5.

[No Limit Motorsport]

Originally Posted by LeeMaster

Ok, so I just want to ask to make sure.

Per manual
*API GL-3 fluid for the transmission 2.2L
*API GL-5 fluid for the differential 1.3L

BUT, youre saying that I should just use GL-3 for both rear diff and tranny since GL-5 dont give no extra benefits to the rear slip differential? Frankly, I dont understand the benefits of this. I might just stick to GL-5 unless you can convince me GL-3 works just as well as GL-5.

The Gear 300 is GL-4/GL-5

http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1303320907

Differential takes GL-5
Transmission takes GL-3 or GL-4

[rice_classic]

So what you're saying is that this isn't GL-4 compatible?.... Oh no! But my 2nd gear worked SO well with it!... :P

[roddy]

Something else to add... There are four more bolts holding the second underbody panel (fiber) to the first one (aluminum - under the engine). I can't recall if the 1st panel has to be removed, or if you can just remove the bolts and pull the 2nd panel out. I had both of mine out when I changed the transmission fluid.

[SportInjected]

Originally Posted by F1point4

I don't know if the LS is required, but I do know that the Non-LS fluid meets the requirement of the diff. It's nice not having to worry about having separate fluid for each.

I have ran my car about 200 miles on the non-LS Gear 300 and so far so good. I'm sure others have run theirs longer without incident

Originally Posted by No Limit Motorsport

Use the 75W90 regular Gear 300 for both transmission and differential. The LS is not needed for the torsen type differential that these cars have. It will give no benefit.

This works to the users advantage too, because instead of having to buy 2 liters LS for the differential, and 3 liters for the transmission (5 liters total), you can just buy 4 liters of the same product.

Perfect, thank you guys for clearing that up!

[gmookher]

Originally Posted by No Limit Motorsport

The Gear 300 is GL-4/GL-5

http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1303320907

does this lessen the 2nd gear synchro notchiness?

[ProjectD]

anyone know of any discount/ coupon code? 4 liters + shipping = $100

EDIT: This is in regards to the Motul Gear 300 Gear Oil

Found here http://www.brz-parts.com/mou-3178cz.html

[No Limit Motorsport]

Originally Posted by ProjectD

anyone know of any discount/ coupon code? 4 liters + shipping = $100

EDIT: This is in regards to the Motul Gear 300 Gear Oil

Found here http://www.brz-parts.com/mou-3178cz.html

I do it for $85 shipped anywhere in the 48 states for 4 liters... just saying.

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/MOT-Gear300-4L