Kraftwerks Supercharger Owners Thread

[Apoc]

Any running the new 30mm kit or installed the upgrade? I would like to find out how the tension is being set and how much noise the new set up makes.

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by Apoc

Any running the new 30mm kit or installed the upgrade? I would like to find out how the tension is being set and how much noise the new set up makes.

still manual tension. they claim due to the wider belt and pulley, you won't have to check it as much and should be stronger. Noise will probably be the same if you don't make the bypass valve recirc. you'll hear a whine on the gas, and a nice woooooooooshshshshsh when you let off the pedal like a rattle snake.

[Calbee]

anyone got the new 30MM upgrade kit? im thinking if its worth the upgrade. i have only really snapped one belt, but if it helps with reliability of the belt and peace of mind, i wouldnt mind..

also, is the gates app the best way to measure tension?

[Ndrew]

Originally Posted by Calbee

anyone got the new 30MM upgrade kit? im thinking if its worth the upgrade. i have only really snapped one belt, but if it helps with reliability of the belt and peace of mind, i wouldnt mind..

also, is the gates app the best way to measure tension?

I ordred mine 2 months ago, should receive it this week, hope it will be reliable !

[Wpomp]

Hey all, Finally just had my first belt break after a year and a half. I had my kit installed by a shop, so I didn't install the initial belt. Is there a guide/write up on how to replace the belt? Is it possible to do without removing the SC mounting plate?
Thanks!

[JoeeStacks]

Originally Posted by Wpomp

Hey all, Finally just had my first belt break after a year and a half. I had my kit installed by a shop, so I didn't install the initial belt. Is there a guide/write up on how to replace the belt? Is it possible to do without removing the SC mounting plate?
Thanks!

There's some write ups on the facebook page.

[vgi]

@Calbee it's up to you. in jan i'll be 3 yrs on my belt and i set it once when installed revised pulleys and never checked unlike other people. I don't race though but do occasionally spirited driving. i take it easy on startup until the ss warms up and belt tightens, 10-15 mins. gates is the best way without special tools. here's how i did it - http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=3381
@Wpomp http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=3835

[MartyMcfly]

Another KW boosted banana here!


Anyone here know whether or not there is a need for a PVC check valve when this kit is installed with an Auto transmission? Not sure if this kit comes with a PVC valve because I bought my kit from a member here, and installed it myself. The kit install instructions do not cover a PVC install step, so I'm assuming it doesn't come with one. (I guess I could call KW, but maybe someone here knows too)
I've looked through the install instructions of the Vortech and JC kits, and both kits do include a PVC check valve which is installed under the passenger side manifold PVC tube. For the auto specifically, the instructions in those kits include direction for installing the vacuum line to the capped PVC tube on the intake manifold's passenger side. The PVC check valve doesn't seem to be auto specific in those kits.

The main reason why I'm asking about the PVC check valve is because I have what appears to be an intermittent boost loss issue and I have not found any boost leaks so far. All host clamps are in the proper position and tight, no loose or disconnected EGR hoses. Recirc valve is on tight, no leak to the boost gauge, or on the vacuum hookup to the recirc valve. So, I'm covering all bases I can find.
Symptoms:
When boost is ok, I get about 4psi at 2k RPM and that increases to about 13PSI at redline. This I believe is normal healthy operation for a c38 with the 95mm pulley.
When boost is not ok, I get about 1psi at 2k RPM and 2PSI at 4k RPM and about 4PSI max at redline. Obviously a problem.

When boost is ok, I have about -11PSI at idle
When boost is not ok, I have about -19PSI at idle, so vacuum is different when I'm low on boost.

I have no idea what is triggering the behavior back and forth between good boost and bad boost, but it will run with good or bad boost the entire time. Sometime after the car has been sitting overnight, the behavior changes back to either bad or good boost by morning.

As a test, I closed the crankcase vent tube off while the car was running, my idle PSI raises to about -11PSI. hm. I then release the crankcase vent tube, and it stays at about -11PSI for some time, or until I turn the car on and restart it, it will go back to about 19PSI at idle. This may be a dumb test. Not sure.

Anyhoo, if there is no need for a PVC check valve, then my next move is to do a proper leak test with a gauge and compressed air (I have the leak tester, I just need to get the right sized reducer first). If that checks out, My next suspect will be the recirc valve itself (it's the metal KW recirc valve that came with the kit). If no boost leak, then there must be something going on with vacuum.

I'm open to anyone's thoughts or questions.

I've done a lot of searching on the forum and elsewhere before posting here. This is why I know that I have the recirc valve vacuum line hooked up right for the auto, and to check the EGR connections etc.

btw, no strange noises coming from the SC, so I don't suspect it as a problem.

[MartyMcfly]

I think I may have found something here: check valve behind pcv

As an alternative to a check valve, it seems I can also cap off the passenger side PVC and run a closed manifold. I'll try capping it as test and post an update.

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by MartyMcfly

Another KW boosted banana here!


Anyone here know whether or not there is a need for a PVC check valve when this kit is installed with an Auto transmission? Not sure if this kit comes with a PVC valve because I bought my kit from a member here, and installed it myself. The kit install instructions do not cover a PVC install step, so I'm assuming it doesn't come with one. (I guess I could call KW, but maybe someone here knows too)
I've looked through the install instructions of the Vortech and JC kits, and both kits do include a PVC check valve which is installed under the passenger side manifold PVC tube. For the auto specifically, the instructions in those kits include direction for installing the vacuum line to the capped PVC tube on the intake manifold's passenger side. The PVC check valve doesn't seem to be auto specific in those kits.

The main reason why I'm asking about the PVC check valve is because I have what appears to be an intermittent boost loss issue and I have not found any boost leaks so far. All host clamps are in the proper position and tight, no loose or disconnected EGR hoses. Recirc valve is on tight, no leak to the boost gauge, or on the vacuum hookup to the recirc valve. So, I'm covering all bases I can find.
Symptoms:
When boost is ok, I get about 4psi at 2k RPM and that increases to about 13PSI at redline. This I believe is normal healthy operation for a c38 with the 95mm pulley.
When boost is not ok, I get about 1psi at 2k RPM and 2PSI at 4k RPM and about 4PSI max at redline. Obviously a problem.

When boost is ok, I have about -11PSI at idle
When boost is not ok, I have about -19PSI at idle, so vacuum is different when I'm low on boost.

I have no idea what is triggering the behavior back and forth between good boost and bad boost, but it will run with good or bad boost the entire time. Sometime after the car has been sitting overnight, the behavior changes back to either bad or good boost by morning.

As a test, I closed the crankcase vent tube off while the car was running, my idle PSI raises to about -11PSI. hm. I then release the crankcase vent tube, and it stays at about -11PSI for some time, or until I turn the car on and restart it, it will go back to about 19PSI at idle. This may be a dumb test. Not sure.

Anyhoo, if there is no need for a PVC check valve, then my next move is to do a proper leak test with a gauge and compressed air (I have the leak tester, I just need to get the right sized reducer first). If that checks out, My next suspect will be the recirc valve itself (it's the metal KW recirc valve that came with the kit). If no boost leak, then there must be something going on with vacuum.

I'm open to anyone's thoughts or questions.

I've done a lot of searching on the forum and elsewhere before posting here. This is why I know that I have the recirc valve vacuum line hooked up right for the auto, and to check the EGR connections etc.

btw, no strange noises coming from the SC, so I don't suspect it as a problem.

you should be at least at -20 at idle. I was at -22/24 when I had my kit installed. I think something isn't installed right with the vacuum source. The "T" valve was in that plastic bag with the two random hoses. I couldn't get the hoses off. I'm not sure how the automatic trans works, but that T goes in before the brake booster check valve. Then once that "T" is installed, that will go to the bypass valve/recirc valve. Then the nipple off of the intake piping, take that hose, and connect that over to the CCV (driver side) and connect the hose there if I'm not mistaken. It seems like when boost does go; everything works properly, so my guess would be a vacuum/boost leak?

[MartyMcfly]

Originally Posted by pgranberg11

you should be at least at -20 at idle. I was at -22/24 when I had my kit installed. I think something isn't installed right with the vacuum source. The "T" valve was in that plastic bag with the two random hoses. I couldn't get the hoses off. I'm not sure how the automatic trans works, but that T goes in before the brake booster check valve. Then once that "T" is installed, that will go to the bypass valve/recirc valve. Then the nipple off of the intake piping, take that hose, and connect that over to the CCV (driver side) and connect the hose there if I'm not mistaken. It seems like when boost does go; everything works properly, so my guess would be a vacuum/boost leak?

hm. ok, I've confirmed through documentation from the JR and Vortech kits that with the Automatic the "T" is going to be on the driver's side PVC. This is because on the Auto from factory, the driver's side PVC is capped and the brake booster goes into the crank and not the intake manifold. However, those kits also include a PVC check valve for the passenger side PVC.

I just got back home from a test run after capping the passenger side PVC. After capping it, I got good boost. When I have good boost, my idle vacuum is about -11. If I pull the cap off, the engine dies (expected). After hooking back the PVC to vent the case, my idle vacuum is about -20 and I can tell I'm not getting good boost. I turned the engine off and capped the PVC again and my idle vacuum returned to -11 and I can tell I got my boost back.

Next, I went on a few test runs with the passenger PVC capped, and was able to produce consistent results of odd behavior:

Start engine, get good boost, idle vacuum is -11, drive around, stop and go, but do not turn off engine and the boost levels are good.
Stop, turn off engine. Turn engine back on, boost is bad. Turn off engine, turn engine back on, boost is still bad. idle vacuum is about -20. Drive around for a few minutes, and turn engine off.
Start engine, get good boost, idle vacuum is -11, drive around, stop and go, but do not turn off engine and the boost levels are good.
Stop, turn off engine. Turn engine back on, boost is bad. Turn off engine, turn engine back on, boost is still bad. idle vacuum is about -20. Drive around for a few minutes, and turn engine off.
repeat

I went back and forth like this 6 times with the exact same result . I had to get back home for work or I would have continued the test maybe without the PVC blocked on the passenger side.

Maybe I need a PVC check valve on the passenger side PVC if I have the T coming off the driver's side PVC? This is what they have set up on the other kits. It's actually called a PCV check valve: http://jacksonracing.com/product/pcv-valve/
Besides the install guides on these other kits, it's also mentioned and explained in this blog: http://speed.academy/scion-frs-subar...stall-guide/3/

I think this is may getting away from just a KW thread. I should probably take this to a FI troubleshooting thread?


Anyway, aside from this strange issue, the kit is great!

[vgi]

@MartyMcfly manifold driver side hose goes to the brake booster and that hose has a check valve. as pgranberg11 wrote, make sure you installed the T split before the brake booster check valve. you also mentioned "metal KW recirc valve that came with the kit" whereas standard recirc valve that comes with the kit is plastic. so i would suggest you to test the recirc valve. however, my first question would be - did you clamp evap vacum ports under the manifold? the hoses can be blown off at around 11-13psi.
as for your question, the kit does not come with check valve, although it should be installed on any boosted car. the purpose of the valve is not to boost crankcase which potentially can blow your gaskets while still evap when mani has vacuum. whether the valve is installed or not has nothing do to with your boost problem.

[MartyMcfly]

Originally Posted by vgi

@MartyMcfly manifold driver side hose goes to the brake booster and that hose has a check valve. as pgranberg11 wrote, make sure you installed the T split before the brake booster check valve. you also mentioned "metal KW recirc valve that came with the kit" whereas standard recirc valve that comes with the kit is plastic. so i would suggest you to test the recirc valve. however, my first question would be - did you clamp evap vacum ports under the manifold? the hoses can be blown off at around 11-13psi.
as for your question, the kit does not come with check valve, although it should be installed on any boosted car. the purpose of the valve is not to boost crankcase which potentially can blow your gaskets while still evap when mani has vacuum. whether the valve is installed or not has nothing do to with your boost problem.

Thanks for the suggestions.
On the Autos, the manifold driver's side hose is capped. The JR and Vortech kits have instructions for install on autos. KW kit does not. In the JR and Vortech kits, they call for the "T" to be on on the manifold driver's side PVC for autos only:
Page 34: Vortech Manual
Page 23: Jackson Racing Manual

If it was a standard boost leak due to a loose hose, I would not be able to consistently get boost back just by shutting the car off after driving it with degraded boost. All I have to do to get boost back is drive the car around for a few minutes, shut it off, then turn it back on again and BAM, boost is back. Then consistently get the reverse result where I drive around with good boost, shut the car off, then start it again, and BAM, bad boost. back and forth back and forth like that without any variation in pattern.

This is a mystery. My brain thinks it may have something to do with the brake booster, but I'm still trying to sort that out in my mind. The brake booster on the Autos appears to go back into the crankcase. It doesn't go into the manifold at all. It runs past the manifold over to the passenger side and into the crankcase. I also have nothing hooked up to that line, so I don't know how this strange boost issue could be involved with the brake booster. It's just a hunch based on the pattern of driving and turning the motor off.

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by MartyMcfly

Thanks for the suggestions.
On the Autos, the manifold driver's side hose is capped. The JR and Vortech kits have instructions for install on autos. KW kit does not. In the JR and Vortech kits, they call for the "T" to be on on the manifold driver's side PVC for autos only:
Page 34: Vortech Manual
Page 23: Jackson Racing Manual

If it was a standard boost leak due to a loose hose, I would not be able to consistently get boost back just by shutting the car off after driving it with degraded boost. All I have to do to get boost back is drive the car around for a few minutes, shut it off, then turn it back on again and BAM, boost is back. Then consistently get the reverse result where I drive around with good boost, shut the car off, then start it again, and BAM, bad boost. back and forth back and forth like that without any variation in pattern.

This is a mystery. My brain thinks it may have something to do with the brake booster, but I'm still trying to sort that out in my mind. The brake booster on the Autos appears to go back into the crankcase. It doesn't go into the manifold at all. It runs past the manifold over to the passenger side and into the crankcase. I also have nothing hooked up to that line, so I don't know how this strange boost issue could be involved with the brake booster. It's just a hunch based on the pattern of driving and turning the motor off.

Interesting thing about the metal bypass. Sorry I didn't mention that. That's the bypass valve I got when I bought the kit from Moto-East. I wonder if kraftwerks made an error when packing it... i never knew they sold a plastic one.... I know Jackson racing sells a plastic one. I also know kraftwerks sells a standard bypass valve which is what I thought I had, and then they sell an upgraded one. ( I thought both of them were metal, since ive never heard of a plastic version only in jacksons kit). In my opinion I really don't think there's anything wrong with it since it's always worked for me and never gave me an issue. Maybe check to ALL the lines are not kinked/pinched/crimped.

But I'd also check and take a look at the HKS V3 install guide page 36. It has a page for automatic bypass valve vacuum routing just to double check correct routing.

Lastly, I'd double check with your tuner and see what they recommend in checking.