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Old 05-22-2016, 01:46 PM   #323
Ultramaroon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobin View Post
Can someone please verify the bleeding instructions? The ones listed above are different than the original post.

OP: Pedal down, loosen valve, tighten valve, pedal up

ck-GT86: loosen valve, pedal down, tighten valve, pedal up

The fluid is under pressure only when the pedal is pushed. Either way will work but I prefer slowly opening the valve and feeling/listening for the air bubbles crackling through a controlled flow under pressure.
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:40 PM   #324
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Just an update on this mod. It doesn't work. I swapped mine back and forth and felt zero difference and the slave cylinder doesn't move any farther. I'm in the process of making longer push rods to see if that helps with the disengagement issue
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:02 AM   #325
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Just an update on this mod. It doesn't work. I swapped mine back and forth and felt zero difference and the slave cylinder doesn't move any farther. I'm in the process of making longer push rods to see if that helps with the disengagement issue
What disengagement issue? Are you talking about some issue you already have with your aftermarket clutch?

If you didn't feel any difference, either you got the wrong part, or your left foot is dead and your measurement wasn't accurate enough to catch a 17% change in stroke.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:15 PM   #326
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I bought one of the replacement clutch slaves from napa today but a truck I have been looking at showed up at the dealer. PM me if you want this thing. San Jose

Never mind I told myself I would regret it if I didn't at least try it so I installed it today. It was easy. Clutch feels pretty awesome now. Pedal pressure is closer to the brake pedal pressure feel but a tad lighter. The stock slave should have been an upgrade part. It's almost like they assumed you would install a heavier clutch.

I had it at minimum height just prior to installing the slave. It worked but I was getting a little bit of binding on quick shifts. After the installation the binding is gone with no adjustment to pedal height. I think the pedal rose a little higher due to the new slave.

Last edited by lychee; 10-12-2016 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:03 PM   #327
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@Ultramaroon So I need two 10mm crush washers for the swap, right? Planning to grab some from Autozone when I pick up the slave cylinder, need to know exactly what I'm looking for with the gaskets so I can grab those too.

Edit: Found the exact ones someone else bought at Autozone, should work I guess.

Last edited by treminaor; 11-30-2016 at 03:19 AM.
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Old 12-03-2016, 12:16 AM   #328
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A big a thank you to @Ultramaroon
Love the feeling
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:44 AM   #329
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This looks like a great upgrade!

With this mod and reading about clutch upgrades. Just wondering if anyone with stage 1 clutches (Exedy/ACT) do this mod, and if so worth it or not necessary?

I'm about to change out my clutch, and need opinions, thanks!
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:46 AM   #330
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This looks like a great upgrade!

With this mod and reading about clutch upgrades. Just wondering if anyone with stage 1 clutches (Exedy/ACT) do this mod, and if so worth it or not necessary?

I'm about to change out my clutch, and need opinions, thanks!
Do this only if you want more feel out of your stock clutch which, by the way, is perfectly ok. It deliberately slips at about the maximum service torque of the stock transmission.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:54 AM   #331
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Sounds good,

I recently posted on another thread I made for the clutch...do you recommend stage 1 or OEM if my car is lightly modified (headers, exhaust, tune) for DD? I know it's up to driver preference, just wondering if there's any real advantages to upgrading over OEM.

Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2017, 12:23 PM   #332
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Originally Posted by pinetree View Post
Sounds good,

I recently posted on another thread I made for the clutch...do you recommend stage 1 or OEM if my car is lightly modified (headers, exhaust, tune) for DD? I know it's up to driver preference, just wondering if there's any real advantages to upgrading over OEM.

Thanks!
None except bragging rights.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:45 AM   #333
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Question: if air gets in the clutch hydraulic system, bleeding thorugh the bleeder screw wouldn't actually get rid of the air since the clutch line and master cylinder are mounted above the slave cylinder, and thus bubbles would float up there and never be released by the slave cylinder bleeder screw, right? Perhaps unbolting the slave and hanging it higher than the master cylinder while bleeding would solve this issue?

Edit: Really thinking about doing this mod but I've already taken out the spring and I'm afraid the clutch will be too heavy after. After adjusting pedal height and removing the spring, the clutch feels pretty good and a good weight but I'm always open to further improvement.

Last edited by ApexEight; 04-28-2017 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:22 PM   #334
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Question: if air gets in the clutch hydraulic system, bleeding thorugh the bleeder screw wouldn't actually get rid of the air since the clutch line and master cylinder are mounted above the slave cylinder, and thus bubbles would float up there and never be released by the slave cylinder bleeder screw, right? Perhaps unbolting the slave and hanging it higher than the master cylinder while bleeding would solve this issue?

Edit: Really thinking about doing this mod but I've already taken out the spring and I'm afraid the clutch will be too heavy after. After adjusting pedal height and removing the spring, the clutch feels pretty good and a good weight but I'm always open to further improvement.
I almost answered your question in the other thread. Then @Tcoat went for it. With such narrow tubes moving a semi-viscous liquid, the air bubbles migrate upward MUCH more slowly than the overall flow during bleeding.

Reinstall the spring and swap. The change in ratio is what really restores the control in the clutch. Spring removal is a 'meh' change but I am way over trying to explain that to people.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:59 PM   #335
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I almost answered your question in the other thread. Then @Tcoat went for it. With such narrow tubes moving a semi-viscous liquid, the air bubbles migrate upward MUCH more slowly than the overall flow during bleeding.

Reinstall the spring and swap. The change in ratio is what really restores the control in the clutch. Spring removal is a 'meh' change but I am way over trying to explain that to people.
Thanks to you and @Tcoat for the replies.

Do you know what size the C clip for the clutch spring is? Mine flew off when I took my spring out. Looking to swing by Home Depot to grab another.
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Old 04-28-2017, 01:07 PM   #336
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Thanks to you and @Tcoat for the replies.

Do you know what size the C clip for the clutch spring is? Mine flew off when I took my spring out. Looking to swing by Home Depot to grab another.
Nope. Take the pin with you. I recommend a decent hardware or auto parts store. I don't remember seeing that kind of stuff at Home Depot.

You will need to use a bunch of little zip ties to compress the spring enough to install it. Cut them after you get it in there.

Do either that or remove the assembly. See the readme on my sig for service manuals. Not my stuff but...
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