Ticking in motor. Normal?

[Norinradd]

Thanks to everyone. I know its a headache

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Whats wrong with spraying a maf sensor with specifically formulated maf sensor cleaner?

Why is a 20$ obd scanner better than the dealers 1200$ one?

The dealers obd couldnt even read my ecu. BUT two days ago the updated my ecu!????

HOW. Did the updTe ecu yet couldnt run codes? Id say the screwed up the obd prongs

CALM DOWN.

Let me tell you what is wrong.

You sprayed the MAF sensor, and now it's running worse than before. That's what is wrong.

As for scanner, here's what you are missing (and I'm using a personal example)

I accidentally pulled on my Aim Solo DL cable once while driving on the freeway. It yanked out and the car immediately went into limp mode (CEL, traction control lights, etc)

It stayed on after I restarted the car. I pulled the code reader out of my glovebox, and cleared the codes. The car drove fine again, until I reconnected my Aim Solo DL. Every time I reconnected it, the CEL will come on and the car will be put in limp mode.

After ruling out other possibilities, I came to the conclusion that my Aim Solo DL cable was the source of the com error and the source of my CEL.

I bought a new cable for $50, and have never had a problem since then.

How does this apply to your situation? You just need the code reader to CLEAR the error codes, and see if it comes back. If it does and you want to work on the car yourself, you need to start removing unknowns/variables. Try finding another MAF sensor from another working car, and see if swapping it (temporarily) will solve your problem. If not, move on to the next thing in your intake. Or if you are unable to clear codes, maybe the OBD-II plug is messed up and you need a new one.

Blame the dealer. Blame the previous owner. Blame Obama. Blame everyone else, but you're the owner of the car...

But you know what? As you already have come to the conclusion that "A 20$ obd wont do shit in this situation", enjoy your weekend of making no progress on fixing your car.

Good luck.

-alex

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Ive worked on cars for 10 years. I just was into jeeps. Repaired pretty much everything there is on those from intakes to rebuilding axles and transfer cases. First "new" car, but an intake is an intake. Its most definitley together properlly. Who knows maybe it was the k&n oiled filter on a dry filter intake. I have a full inspection booked for tuesday. They seem like they want to avoid any powertrain warranty talk.

Well, @Norinradd, that's good to know that you have some automotive experience ........ we never know. I didn't mean to challenge your mechanical abilities.

I have found, over the past 65 years of working on automobiles, that if something all of a sudden isn't working right and I have been messing with the car ....... it's usually caused by something I just did.

Thus my recommendation that you review your procedures for assembling the intake and ...... cleaning (messing with) the MAF.


humfrz

[Tectoniic]

Slow your roll a bit and let's do some of the diagnostics that other people have mentioned. The dealer may have told you they couldn't get any codes as they might be codes related to the powertrain and they think your mods are the fault and don't even want to open up that can of worms.


1. Get an OBDII reader ( or see if autozone or similar store will let you use theirs) and see if you can read the codes for yourself.


2. If you get some codes google them and that will make this a hell of a lot easier and save you time and money if you go to the dealer with a decent guess as to what the problem is


3. Just because the seller didn't say there was a tune on it does not mean there was actually not a tune. When the dealer reflashed your ECU to stock it is no longer accounting for your intake and header. This could be causing you to throw lean/rich codes or some other kind of general cat converter code. I am not familiar with the agency headers but if they are catless this is probably your problem.


4. These codes could possibly trigger limp mode as the car thinks it is too rich/too lean and trying to protect itself. I wouldn't try it until you have tried to read codes with a scanner to make sure it is not something that you will damage by revving the engine but if you can rev past 5k then you know it is not limp mode.


5. If you find out it is just a cat efficiency code then all you will need is a tune to account for your mods. There are plenty of reputable tuners on the forums and I know people like Delicious Tuning, especially if you need a quick solution.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Ihave beentold by previous owner and the shop thatdid all the work that it was never tuned and ran fine. That they are all boltons that didnt need a tune.


Injen is sending me a new tube to fix idle.

I was stalling and sputtering BEFORE the dealer ecu flash. Cleaned maf sensor and put k&n oiled fillter on dry injen intake and then shit hit the fan. Cel and tcs lights came on and stalled
More frequently

My question really js jf the dealer was able to get into my ecu to add new software, why couldnt they get into it to see what the codes were reading. Wtf would i buy an obd scanner when tbe dealer is 5 minutes from my house. They dont use a 20$ scanner. Those 20$ scanners are garbage

I have two cheap obd blutooth adapters and android torque app and its connected fine and read codes from several brz/86 and various other cars fine. I think it was $5 on ebay and it works fine :-)


I also have tactrix cable an oft and ecutek cable and all will connect and read DTC codes. As will Techstream dealer software via tactrix cable (I have that as well)


The connection to read codes is same to flash ecu (can buss connection), id say they just had a loose connection its quite common on early model cars.


The early obd ports in 86/brz can be suspect. I seen several that have intermittent connections and people have had the port replaced.


The other thing you need to realise is your the guy next to the car who knows what you have done, knows more history of the car than us, can hear see smell etc what going on. You feed us snippets of information based on what you perceive to be wrong with the car. your then expecting people on the other side of the planet to be able to correctly diagnose the problem based on these small pieces of relayed information.


We keep asking for the codes as it probably the most reliable way to do some diagnosis, without them were just guessing.


The first thing you need to do is get reading the codes sorted .

[Norinradd]

Alright well in canada there is no code reader cheaper than 120$. So ill probably
Just bring it to the tuner and get them
To figure it out. Car drives and smells great, Looks great too :p. Im
Assume them reflashing ecu did sometjing to a/f mixture. I dont have the money to spend 120$ plus tax on an obd scanner right now, to just not read it. If dealers 6000$ reader couldnt connect a 5$ one wont. But im
Assuming dealer will ignore everything and jump straight to it having no cats. WELL it ran fine before!! Neverhad any lights on my cluster until
They flashed the ecu. Now they cant even read it. Im
In touch with toyota canada. This is there fuck up

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Alright well in canada there is no code reader cheaper than 120$.

https://www.amazon.ca/Unilink-Diagno.../dp/B00W2TRB1I

$25 CDN and free shipping.

-alex

[Norinradd]

Ive seen that one! I need it today though. The tuner shop nearby will read them for me, they are just busy i dont want to bother them today. Ill buy that for the future though!!

[humfrz]

DANG! ..... @Norinradd ....... you are one stubborn dude ..........

There have been a bunch of really nice folks onhere, that are quite knowledgeable about this car, that are trying to help you ....... and you keep blowing them off ......




humfrz

[tofurun]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Ya i have a diagnostic booked for tuesday morning

Not flaming or being a douche but at this point this is probably the best option. I would go with dealer not a 3rd party shop... Just my advice. Get what you pay for. No idea why dealer couldn't pull up the CEL history, seems fishy.

[tofurun]

Originally Posted by humfrz

DANG! ..... @Norinradd ....... you are one stubborn dude ..........

There have been a bunch of really nice folks onhere, that are quite knowledgeable about this car, that are trying to help you ....... and you keep blowing them off ......




humfrz

Ive been there... I sympathize with the guy. Has about the same mentality as me before I had kids lol. I would go rage mode about stuff or any rude responses on the forum if I was trying to fix something.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Norinradd

Alright well in canada there is no code reader cheaper than 120$. So ill probably
Just bring it to the tuner and get them
To figure it out. Car drives and smells great, Looks great too :p. Im
Assume them reflashing ecu did sometjing to a/f mixture. I dont have the money to spend 120$ plus tax on an obd scanner right now, to just not read it. If dealers 6000$ reader couldnt connect a 5$ one wont. But im
Assuming dealer will ignore everything and jump straight to it having no cats. WELL it ran fine before!! Neverhad any lights on my cluster until
They flashed the ecu. Now they cant even read it. Im
In touch with toyota canada. This is there fuck up

Hmmm if after the flash they cannot access ecu for logging thats not a good sign. Will be interesting to see if they can re-flash or access ecu. It is possible to stuff up the flash and have an ecu that runs car (usually badly) but you can no longer access via the can buss for diagnostics or reflash. If so you will likely need new ecu, hopefully thats not the case.

and if they stuffed it they should fix it.

if all else fails
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810



i have one of these elcheapo ones although you can get the odd dud one.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CY-B02-Bl...IAAOSwubRXKIsC



Then you just need an android phone or tablet with Torque app

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...l.torque&hl=en

you can use torque lite which is free but just does not have as many features

[Teseo]

Dealerships are dumbass, pull the codes and report back.

[Norinradd]

Originally Posted by humfrz

DANG! ..... @Norinradd ....... you are one stubborn dude ..........

There have been a bunch of really nice folks onhere, that are quite knowledgeable about this car, that are trying to help you ....... and you keep blowing them off ......




humfrz

Im not blowing them off its a circus and i keep getting the same answer. Looking for someone who has experienced this issue. Anyone can formulate an opinion on a car.

First question. Yes or no. Can maf cleaner mess with the maf sensor on these cars? Makes no sense that it would. How else would it be cleaned.

Updating the ecu used obd connection? If they accessed it to flash the new software then 24hrs later check engine light and they cant access it. Somethings up. Right? Why would i buy a cheap obd scanner if the dealerships scanner couldnt read it. Seems like i might aswell wipe my ass with 20s.

Im just stuck. I feel the codes thrown, If they can access them, Will be air fuel mixture codes. Because notjing else feels wrong other than the idle spitter/stall And i have no cats. So dealer will jump on that... BUT. i had no lights on my dash for a month. I go to get ecu updated with new idle flash and 40km later i have CEL on and TCS.

Dealer claimed it was because it was tune. Well they got into it 48 hrs ago? Wasnt tuned since then. So theyre bullshitting.

Ive read of a handful of sensors that might be malfunctioning. Hopefully dealer doesnt weasle out of it because as i said. I had no cel prior. Previous owner is a good guy and shop is very reputable. Both said no ecu calibrations were done. Purely bolt on.

Just kinda stuck. I want to go drive this damn cAr this weekend. Also i revved past 5000. Its not in limp mode. I KNOW a tune will help. But its ran worse and had warning lights sonce the dealer fucked with it. So they can deal with it. If they cant then it goes to a tuner i guess