Slotting stock struts

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by wparsons

There's nothing half assed about slotting the struts... lots of good coilovers come pre-slotted on the upper hole. Adding camber at the knuckle is slightly better than at the upper mount because of the SAI.

To the OP, if you're running 245's you might not have any clearance at the spring perch to get extra camber from slotting the struts. I have my struts slotted and whiteline camber bolts, and maxed out at about -2.2* before there wasn't enough clearance between tire and spring perch. That's with 17x8 +45's and 225/45 AD08R's.

If you've got room, definitely slot the upper holes!

I ran into this as well. Similar wheels, after around -2.5* there wasnt enough clearance in the front.

I run the so dreaded offset mounts from whiteline on R-comps (maxxis RC1) and had to use a spacer in the front to clear the spring. After 4 days of track the mounts are perfect and I like very much how the car handles now, understeer is completely gone. Spacers might have to do with that, as I tried with 5mm and then 20mm and I could totally feel more oversteer with the 20mm, but I liked the turn-in feeling more with the 20mm. There probably is some toe-out during braking since sometimes it wants to wander, but its so easy to make it wander into the right place and make it turn quickly.

Back to the subject, with those mounts and camber bolts in the front, im nowhere near maxed and I have -3*, you could totally get to around -5* on those, so the mounts alone would probably be good enough to around -3.5. They are solid iron/steel (cant tell between the two, but from the weight its not aluminium). They seem more solid than any other camber plate I've seen out there and cheaper, reason why I went with it. Only time will tell if they really are sturdy.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

I ran into this as well. Similar wheels, after around -2.5* there wasnt enough clearance in the front.

I run the so dreaded offset mounts from whiteline on R-comps (maxxis RC1) and had to use a spacer in the front to clear the spring. After 4 days of track the mounts are perfect and I like very much how the car handles now, understeer is completely gone. Spacers might have to do with that, as I tried with 5mm and then 20mm and I could totally feel more oversteer with the 20mm, but I liked the turn-in feeling more with the 20mm. There probably is some toe-out during braking since sometimes it wants to wander, but its so easy to make it wander into the right place and make it turn quickly.

Back to the subject, with those mounts and camber bolts in the front, im nowhere near maxed and I have -3*, you could totally get to around -5* on those, so the mounts alone would probably be good enough to around -3.5. They are solid iron/steel (cant tell between the two, but from the weight its not aluminium). They seem more solid than any other camber plate I've seen out there and cheaper, reason why I went with it. Only time will tell if they really are sturdy.

Could you post a link to those mounts?

[Calum]

Originally Posted by wparsons

There's nothing half assed about slotting the struts... lots of good coilovers come pre-slotted on the upper hole. Adding camber at the knuckle is slightly better than at the upper mount because of the SAI.

Not to mention less maintenance, longer service life, better ride, and less NVH.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by Calum

Could you post a link to those mounts?

This is where I got them from https://www.ft86motorsports.com/susp...-fr-s-brz.html. I bought them last december so they may or may not still be available as some people claim, I havent followed up on the matter.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

This is where I got them from https://www.ft86motorsports.com/susp...-fr-s-brz.html. I bought them last december so they may or may not still be available as some people claim, I havent followed up on the matter.

Wow, maybe I was incorrect.

Do you have any poping sounds as you turn the steering wheel?

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by Calum

Wow, maybe I was incorrect.

Do you have any poping sounds as you turn the steering wheel?

One popping sound (or rather cracking) every morning or after the car has been sitting for several hours without bein driven. It cracks once and then it makes no other sound or noise. It is not more noisy than oem, you dont feel any extra vibrations. It feels like oem, except for that one crack every morning before leaving for work.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

One popping sound (or rather cracking) every morning or after the car has been sitting for several hours without bein driven. It cracks once and then it makes no other sound or noise. It is not more noisy than oem, you dont feel any extra vibrations. It feels like oem, except for that one crack every morning before leaving for work.

Yeah, that's a bad bearing in one or both of those mounts.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Calum

I didn't know you could get that much! I never tried the upper and lower bolts. Nice.



Also, a 12mm camber bolt in the inner hole on the rear lower control arm can get you plus or minus .5 degrees.

Yup, I've gotten -3.0/-3.2 using 2 sets of spc bolts with the factory damper and springs. Others were able to get as much as -2.8 with the spc bolts in the lower hole and transferring the factory lower bolt into the upper hole.

I wanted to see how much camber I can get with just a slotted upper hole on the factory struts without any eccentric bolts.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by Calum

Yeah, that's a bad bearing in one or both of those mounts.

Even tho it makes the sound only once? They always made that sound (from day 1 when I picked it up from the shop) and the guys who installed it prepare almost exclusively race cars and they didnt say anything wrong about the product or installation.

[s0sl0w]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Compare the cost of a proper solution to wasting $250+ each tires.

A) used A7's don't cost $250 each, I paid $350 for my entire set

B) Motion controls are planned for next season, I discovered that the fronts aren't wearing evenly. I want to address that now rather than waiting, because I'm looking for lower times. Wearing them out a bit early is not a concern or factor, they're R-comps that are used about 8 minutes on an ax weekend. The only "proper" solution is whatever works, is safe and fits my budget.

C) There is nothing improper about gaining camber at the hub and it's better than gaining it at the top hat.

D) I'm not made of money. If I can get to the -2.5° I want for very little $$$ safely I would rather do that than waste money on top hats that's I'll be replacing next year with Racenseng's.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, @DocWalt has got me pointed in the right direction as well I believe. I just have to take the car off the road and get the struts off for a weekend.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by s0sl0w

Thanks for the suggestions guys, @DocWalt has got me pointed in the right direction as well I believe. I just have to take the car off the road and get the struts off for a weekend.

You don't need to take them out to slot them... mine were slotted while the car was on the alignment rack (just jacked up at the front). Just pull the front wheels, unbolt the knuckle and slot away with a die grinder.

Originally Posted by Calum

Wow, maybe I was incorrect.

Do you have any poping sounds as you turn the steering wheel?

They didn't stop making them, they just stopped listing them as a product for the BRZ/FRS. The mount was the old product from a WRX, and on the WRX chassis they don't have the bearing issues.

[7thgear]

have you considered simply not running 245s and stick to 225s instead?



next year you'll have all your suspension goodies to take advantage of more rubber, for now it's better to deal with the limitations in a sensible way.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

Even tho it makes the sound only once? They always made that sound (from day 1 when I picked it up from the shop) and the guys who installed it prepare almost exclusively race cars and they didnt say anything wrong about the product or installation.

Yup. Pull one and give it a turn by hand. I'll be crunchy.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by wparsons

They didn't stop making them, they just stopped listing them as a product for the BRZ/FRS. The mount was the old product from a WRX, and on the WRX chassis they don't have the bearing issues.

I forgot about that.