04-19-2018, 03:12 PM | #3235 | |
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The scenario would be >100F at Crow's Landing, 3x hard braking zones, 60+ down to 30 over a 60-70s run. That's harder on brakes than most track days (Laguna has 4x hard stops over a ~2 minute lap, I've boiled my fluid and glazed my pads there before, in this exact car). We'll see if I replicate it over the coming months but course designers know nobody likes being hard on brakes so we usually don't get more than 2x hard stops like that out there, maybe 3x if there's a hard turn after the finish. Not sure if you consider that a typical autox but that situation along with a '3 lap' course mentioned above in 90+ degree heat happens 2x-4x per month out here from June-August. It wasn't boiled fluid, it was overheated pads, pedal felt fine, but no stopping power so I had to push the pedal further to slow the car down, I've always called that fade because boiled fluid isn't faded stopping power, it's a dead pedal. Hell maybe the tires were overtemp or overinflated hindering my stopping ability. In all likelihood some mediocre driving put my mind wherever it was that day and on the final sweeper I couldn't slow down enough and added another 5 feet between me and the apex on top of the usual crappy ~2 feet I was off by that day. The pads bounced right back and I smoothed out my braking on the final run iirc, not that it was worth much with the state I was in last year. Fluid was Motul RBF600 at the time, had it for four more months before I flushed it over the winter and I haven't touched the brakes since. It's the internet, grains of salt, but I appreciate the prodding, critical thinking helps us grow and I think you're right, fade/boiled fluid/glazed pads shouldn't happen with any decent brake pad on an autox course so I'll be sticking with this pad until it's done then trying another street pad. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade According to Wikipedia I would describe my experience as "friction fade" |
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04-19-2018, 03:25 PM | #3236 |
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It does seem plausible to me that there is another explanation. The biggest factor contributing to brake heat is speed. At under 60 the heat produced is much less than would be at higher speeds. So I don't think the comparison to Laguna seca is really telling the whole story. That said, certain caliper problems can cause the pads to spread more between applications of the brakes and result in a softer feel on the first press. I'm not arguing with you about whether it's fade. Sure. It may be. I'm just saying, maybe make sure your calipers are sliding nicely and your springs are in correctly if and when you replace pads concerning this problem.
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04-19-2018, 03:59 PM | #3237 | |
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fwiw I'm not considering braking zones that are less than 60mph, for instance I would be shocked as well to hear of faded pads at the smaller site we run out here where third gear is a rarity. Luckily I've had full confidence in my pads, fluid, and current level of brake caliper maintenance since I felt the 'friction fade' last year with a regularly scheduled fluid flush in between. I agree it should be part of any serious driver's maintenance program to inspect and regularly clean and re-lubricate the calipers. |
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04-19-2018, 10:59 PM | #3238 |
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Put in a few good stops with the Ferodos last night and tonight on the way from work. Seems completely different, probably never got a chance to properly bed them in. Probably roll with them a little longer and re-assess.
Also, anyone see the Karcepts teaser post? Looks like he's getting into the 86 game.
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04-19-2018, 11:22 PM | #3239 | |
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04-19-2018, 11:24 PM | #3240 | |
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Will probably be a day one purchase for me.
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04-20-2018, 07:48 AM | #3241 | ||
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What I'm saying, especially for those reading this that are relatively new, pads are not a "must have because fade" item. When you come to the point where you need to replace OEM pads because they are worn down, *then* consider a different pad based on the performance you're looking for (everyone has different braking styles.... there are people that stab and go, and there are LFBs, and everything in between... they all look for different characteristics). However, be ready to buy different types if you don't get them right the 1st time, and new rotors because the pad may not like the previous material left behind. Quote:
--kC *80 seconds or less with 5 min cool down.
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04-20-2018, 10:02 AM | #3242 | |
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04-23-2018, 05:08 PM | #3243 | |
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blah. FastTrack is out with a special note...
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The Following User Says Thank You to cjd For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (04-23-2018) |
04-23-2018, 06:32 PM | #3244 | |
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to illegal links! |
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The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | cjd (04-24-2018) |
04-23-2018, 08:49 PM | #3245 |
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Hey guys is the information compiled in the first several posts of this thread still accurate or is it out of date? I've been debating back and forth between STX or SSC in 2019 and after a very depressing Crow's Landing in DS (the GS index is SO soft...) I think I'd like to move up to STX.
I'm trying to put together a shopping list so I can start targeting parts and budgeting for 11 months from now and was just curious how out of date the first page is or if anyone has a comprehensive check-list of parts you need to buy to be considered "100% prepared" for STX class. Thanks
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04-24-2018, 08:57 AM | #3246 | |
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Coilovers, swaybars, rear lca (only a handful are stx legal, no spherical mounts) header/hfc/catback and tune are the basics (drop in filter and elbow for intake,or maybe something else) with some attention to weight in the exhaust if you can (noise is an issue on the lighter setups). Weight reduction (battery, ap sprint bbk are the easy items still legal) and bushings/inserts/mounts are usually next, with a diff change being done by the most competitive (as far as I understand it). I have never done bushings past rear subframe, diff, and steering rack, but I know some go for some of the suspension arm bits. A front strut bar is legal as long as its just straight across, but may not be an advantage. There are some details in the rules to know, like no increased metal content on bushings. Give the rules a read if you haven't. C
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05-01-2018, 09:36 PM | #3247 |
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Looking at finally dumping my stock top hats and getting some camber plates this year. Any of you guys running the Ground Control plates? Looks like they have plenty of camber and caster adjustment. Plus they apparently add almost 1" of suspension travel which seems like a plus. Any downsides I'm not seeing? Also considering the Raceseng plates, but they are damn pricey.
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05-01-2018, 10:04 PM | #3248 | |
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