JDL turbo kit owners thread

[Conman]

Originally Posted by Steveiam

I was following your build thread and I thought everything got situated. Sorry to hear that happened. Are you thinking of rebuilding the block?

Thinking about it... What would be a good option with my set up? Is there a better option for E85... I see the Mazworks Sleeved Stg2 https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/488-...lock-FA20.aspx

The Full Blown stg3
http://fullblownmotorsports.com/full...ort-block-1465

and MAP
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...a20-ft86mss-s3

Dsport
https://clubdsport.com/fa20/

There is IAG and Crawford as well. I dunno

The advantage to Full blown is they are local and I could have them do the install

[Conman]

My engine shop recommended this engine. Any thoughts? https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ru-short-block

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Conman

My engine shop recommended this engine. Any thoughts? https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...ru-short-block

No reason to lower the compression, IMO. It will just make your turbo less responsive and introduce more lag, while requiring more boost pressure to make the same power you'd make at 12.5:1 with less boost. I dont think you're planning to buy a bigger turbo, so this also means your GT2860RS will struggle to hold those higher boost pressures required to make decent power with low compression.

Unless you are stuck with 91 octane fuel and you have no access to anything higher octane, I recommend a 12.5:1 block.

[Conman]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

No reason to lower the compression, IMO. It will just make your turbo less responsive and introduce more lag, while requiring more boost pressure to make the same power you'd make at 12.5:1 with less boost. I dont think you're planning to buy a bigger turbo, so this also means your GT2860RS will struggle to hold those higher boost pressures required to make decent power with low compression.

Unless you are stuck with 91 octane fuel and you have no access to anything higher octane, I recommend a 12.5:1 block.

Should I look for a different shop? ... Also slightly worried because they say they dont know if they can tune it since they have never used ECUtek before. They mostly work on EJ engines and only tune with Cobb or OFT.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Conman

Should I look for a different shop?

Yes.

Originally Posted by Conman

... Also slightly worried because they say they dont know if they can tune it since they have never used ECUtek before. They mostly work on EJ engines and only tune with Cobb or OFT.

Big red flags. You should stick with HRI Tuning if possible. I would check and see if that shop would allow an experienced EcuTek tuner to tune your car with EcuTek on their dyno (HRI has done this before). If they don't, then seek an experienced EcuTek tuner elsewhere.

[Conman]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Yes.



Big red flags. You should stick with HRI Tuning if possible. I would check and see if that shop would allow an experienced EcuTek tuner to tune your car with EcuTek on their dyno (HRI has done this before). If they don't, then seek an experienced EcuTek tuner elsewhere.

So then my only other option local is Full Blown; but I have been told to stay away from them ( they sounded not interested in working on any Turbo kit that wasn't their own) I've heard a couple bad stories ... How about nationwide if you were going to have anyone build an engine and install it in house who would you take your car to?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Conman

So then my only other option local is Full Blown; but I have been told to stay away from them ( they sounded not interested in working on any Turbo kit that wasn't their own) I've heard a couple bad stories ... How about nationwide if you were going to have anyone build an engine and install it in house who would you take your car to?

If you're looking for a premium shop experience and a true professional, turn-key build and tune, I've only heard good things about these guys. https://nationalspeedinc.com/

They have cars shipped to them from all over the country.

Here's a BRZ build they completed recently. https://nationalspeedinc.com/2013-su...rz-shortblock/

[WC-BRZ]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

If you're looking for a premium shop experience and a true professional, turn-key build and tune, I've only heard good things about these guys. https://nationalspeedinc.com/

They have cars shipped to them from all over the country.

Here's a BRZ build they completed recently. https://nationalspeedinc.com/2013-su...rz-shortblock/

Speaking of short blocks, how is yours from Mazworx holding up? Already asked in your build thread, too

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by WC-BRZ

Speaking of short blocks, how is yours from Mazworx holding up? Already asked in your build thread, too

My bad. I responded in my build thread.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

No reason to lower the compression, IMO. It will just make your turbo less responsive and introduce more lag, while requiring more boost pressure to make the same power you'd make at 12.5:1 with less boost. I dont think you're planning to buy a bigger turbo, so this also means your GT2860RS will struggle to hold those higher boost pressures required to make decent power with low compression.

Unless you are stuck with 91 octane fuel and you have no access to anything higher octane, I recommend a 12.5:1 block.

I understand he is selling his car now, but check out this post from this thread.

I think a tuner could do boost by gear and progressive boost to reduce the risk of knock and preignition. They could also reduce the effective compression ratio below the static compression ratio with cam timing like the WRX does, but it might just be easier and safer to just use a lower compression motor. The detriments might not be that bad like the guy mentioned in the link. Like you said, if all he had was 91 and modest power goals like lower than 300whp then definitely he shouldn't lower compression. With E85, the risk diminishes, and he could hit his 400whp goals, but a lower compression motor would have more potential for more power later on, so I would advise reducing compression to at least 11:1, but closer to 10:1 would be ideal. The lower the compression ratio the more power potential the engine will have, but there obviously can be more lag.

Porsche 718 Cayman uses 9.5:1, the BMW S55 uses 10.2:1, the B58 uses 11:1, the Mercedes engine below uses 9:1, but because it does, the torque comes on higher in the rpms, but as you can see, they are running 30psi on pump gas, so the motor hits over 400hp. An Evo's compression ratio was 9:1 and most would agree that 500hp was closer to the limit on that motor before piston/rods were needed, but I don't know how the stock piston/rods compare to the FA20. Just something to think about.

https://carbuzz.com/news/mercedes-am...-making-416-hp

https://www.motortrend.com/news/amg-...r-engine-specs

[Jesse36m3]

Does anybody have a link/part number for the oil restrictor in the V2 kit for a GTX2860R Gen 2?

[Steveiam]

Is it possible for GTX2860 to make 300-350hp with 10:1 CR on 93 octane?

[Amputechture]

Originally Posted by Steveiam

Is it possible for GTX2860 to make 300-350hp with 10:1 CR on 93 octane?

Yes

[Amputechture]

Although lowering the compression ratio to stay at that power level would be retarded.