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Old 02-25-2016, 03:38 PM   #15
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Why does lowering a car tuck the wheels in?

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the way the suspension works on this car, you will increase negative camber as you lower the car. Of course, it only adjusts it so much, but it'll help.
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:05 PM   #16
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Start with -2 and lowering it and see where that brings you. -2 to -2.5 is a good amount and is great performance wise.
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What are you talking about? You just killed one of the worst brands in history according to enthusiasts. People will be worshipping you like sheep.
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:10 PM   #17
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Start with -2 and lowering it and see where that brings you. -2 to -2.5 is a good amount and is great performance wise.
What about rub though? My setup is 245/35R18x8.5 +30

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Old 02-25-2016, 04:14 PM   #18
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What about rub though? My setup is 245/35R18x8.5 +30

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I have 245/35 18x8.5 +33 lowered on springs with camber bolts ~ -1 degree camber and it pokes just slightly. I don't rub at all on stock struts even at full lock. I'm considering camber plates so I can get to -2
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:23 PM   #19
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for the fronts, you're going to need either camber bolts or adjustable top hats to get more negative camber. on these cars, the fronts wont camber in much just by lowering... only the rears do that noticeably on their own.

with camber bolts only on stock suspension or lowering springs, you'll only get small negative camber like up to -1.5deg if that. might be good enough for what you want, but i'd aim for at least -2deg with that set up in the fronts.
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:32 PM   #20
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-2.0 or -2.5 up front is what you need to set it even up top, if you lower the car an inch all around the 1" drop in the rear should set the rear camber to about -2.25,-2.5 range so as long as you set the toe F+R you should be fine on tire wear, performance and looks.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:02 AM   #21
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Quote:
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What about rub though? My setup is 245/35R18x8.5 +30

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That offset is what's killing ya. But you bought them now you have to live with it.

My DD setup(also my autoX) is -3.4 camber with a little toe out and tire wear is perfect. Just lower it camber in the front and it will help
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:46 AM   #22
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Negative camber doesn't wear tires much. If you drive it 30k miles a year maybe but most people never see enough miles to matter, you can just rotate your tires to wear the other side anyways. If you plan on any racing you'll need that camber for traction. I'm going up to -3.5 front this year. Lowering won't help much. Adjustable top hats will be what you need maybe rear LCAs, not sure on how far camber bolts can get you but I know I wouldn't want to get them and find out they aren't enough
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:31 AM   #23
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I have 245/40/18 on 18x8.5+40, lowered roughly 1.5" with -2 camber on the front and it's perfectly flush. As people have said, it'll be tricky, but doable. I know the meaty tire guys running 265's on 18x9.5+40's can pull it off. That would have similar hub face to wheel outside distance of an 8.5+28.
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:49 AM   #24
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Running -2.5 camber up front with 18x9.5 +35offset wheels and 245x35x18 tires. No poke.
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:01 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the help guys! I think I'm going to go -2 on the front. One question I still have is, did you guys do it yourself, or did you bring it in to a mechanic?

I just had the guys at Tires Plus mount my wheels and when I asked about a custom alignment they said they could add negative camber if I wanted, but is this something better suited for a performance shop?

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Old 02-26-2016, 11:08 AM   #26
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Thanks for all the help guys! I think I'm going to go -2 on the front. One question I still have is, did you guys do it yourself, or did you bring it in to a mechanic?

I just had the guys at Tires Plus mount my wheels and when I asked about a custom alignment they said they could add negative camber if I wanted, but is this something better suited for a performance shop?

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Anyone with an alignment rack can do it. Once you get aftermarket parts they can get kinda iff because they may not understand how the part is adjusted but you can just explain to the tech(these parts aren't complicated by any means). It's the alignment rack that's the important part, cause they will assist it and look at the number on the screen and adjust it again. I'd try to find a place that will cut you a deal if -2 isn't enough and needs readjusted.

Now there are DIY tools but if you don't plan on changing it often I'd just go to a shop. Also I suppose you could use a protractor app on your phone? I've never done this, I dunno how accurate it is, but it seems like it should work if you put a flat plate on the face off your wheel to measure on. Then you could get it really close to what you want for free and just have a shop even it up
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:20 AM   #27
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Your best bet is to get a trusted performance shop that does performance alignments.


ANYONE can do it with the proper rack and knowledge....but the average guys at NTB / Sears / ETC aren't trained in performance stuff. If you need additional parts to help with the alignment they wouldn't be able to help you acquire / suggest car specific parts FOR THE MOST PART. Also most aren't trained in performance alignment parts. I have ran across some good alignment people here and there at the chain places. All depends.
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:28 AM   #28
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Your best bet is to get a trusted performance shop that does performance alignments.


ANYONE can do it with the proper rack and knowledge....but the average guys at NTB / Sears / ETC aren't trained in performance stuff. If you need additional parts to help with the alignment they wouldn't be able to help you acquire / suggest car specific parts FOR THE MOST PART. Also most aren't trained in performance alignment parts. I have ran across some good alignment people here and there at the chain places. All depends.
But how is a performance alignment different from normal? It's just farther/steeper/more right? I'm pretty sure the guy at Sears can figure out he needs to move the tophat further to get more camber. He may not be know that you need to move some bolts top different holes to get the bigger numbers(seen this before) but if you explain it to them they should be fine. As far as suggesting parts to get, I doubt even a performance shop will be aware if every option we have available as many companies develop exclusively for twins or Subarus. That's what the internet is for anyways right? To figure out what parts you need and watch porn
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