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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 09-17-2014, 07:11 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
OEM replacements from the dealer cost around ~1600.

That should give you an idea of if something could be an upgrade or not.
I don't think that's really fair comparison. Just think about the OEM seats being overpriced compared to aftermarket options.
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:42 PM   #44
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Aren't bilsteins notoriously rough riding though?
Depends on the spring you put on it. The B8's are for lowering springs but like the RCE yellows, which aren't much stiffer than stock still lower the car 3/4 in. But RCE Tarmacs wouldn't be for the faint of heart.
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:25 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Hanakuso View Post
I don't think that's really fair comparison. Just think about the OEM seats being overpriced compared to aftermarket options.
Well, considering there is an airbag sensor and an airbag in the OEM seat...

The *good* aftermarket options are more expensive than an OEM seat, even taking that into consideration anyhow.
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Old 09-18-2014, 01:20 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Well, considering there is an airbag sensor and an airbag in the OEM seat...

The *good* aftermarket options are more expensive than an OEM seat, even taking that into consideration anyhow.
Well there is the Recaro Sportster CS that has a side airbag and could come in CF but I'm guessing the price would end up more then OEM if you start adding all the options up.

But basically I think options out there like the Bilstein shocks/springs or coilsovers that are cheaper then OEM but still better/cheaper. I know the TRD sportivo is $1000ish and it should be more performance oriented. Then again those spring rates they went with are strange
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:47 PM   #47
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Hello everybody,


What would be the best setup to get if you only had 1500 max to spend on suspension. This is my daily driver, and i won't be tracking my car. Cant justify spending 2-3 g's on coilovers.

I just would like maybe 1-1.5 MAX drop (probably 1" or so due to all the bumps in my area)


Main Goals:

Close a bit of the wheel gap
really really comfrontable ride.
Under $1500





Would coilovers be the best option, if so which one?





Thanks!
No sure if you are still looking for a lowering option, but if you are we are having a CRAZY deal on a set of HKS Hypermax IV GT Coilovers.
Normal MSPR $2394.00 USD shipped.

With my clearance pricing I can have them to your door for $1594.00 thats an $800.00 saving. Let me know if I can help you out!
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:05 PM   #48
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I have a hard time believing you people. A lot of people on the internet are just full of it. For all I know many of you could be 10 or you might just be suggesting your favorite brands. I'm not saying you are but it's a possibility. What exactly is it that makes ksport and d2 so bad? Are they not well built? Do they rust? Is customer service terrible? The only reason I actually considered what the guy with the miata said is because he tracks his car and has ksports on it and says they're great. At least show me what it is that made u think ksport and d2 sucks. I'm not defending them I'm just curious.


For me, there is no glide in pulse and glide :p
Think about it like this; guy in miata has never had coilovers, this is his first set and he thinks he's faster with them.

Ask a HPDE DRIVING INSTRUCTOR if you should get K Sports, I'll bet he's ridden in more high hp cars than you can think of and can drive them with one hand so he'll know his shit. Being at the track does not make you an expert, it makes you a dedicated enthusiast.
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:19 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by cdrazic93 View Post
Think about it like this; guy in miata has never had coilovers, this is his first set and he thinks he's faster with them.

Ask a HPDE DRIVING INSTRUCTOR if you should get K Sports, I'll bet he's ridden in more high hp cars than you can think of and can drive them with one hand so he'll know his shit. Being at the track does not make you an expert, it makes you a dedicated enthusiast.

Very good point and thanks for the suggestion. I never thought of it that way.


For me, there is no glide in pulse and glide :p
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:57 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by vividracing View Post
No sure if you are still looking for a lowering option, but if you are we are having a CRAZY deal on a set of HKS Hypermax IV GT Coilovers.
Normal MSPR $2394.00 USD shipped.

With my clearance pricing I can have them to your door for $1594.00 thats an $800.00 saving. Let me know if I can help you out!
DAAANNNNGGGGG i wish i was in the market for some coil overs.
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Old 09-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #51
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vivid, still have any of these HKS sets left?
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:34 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
If you must go with more than a 1 inch drop, I recommend coilovers. ST, Bilstein PSS B14, KW V1, and then some rear lower control arms to dial in the alignment are good options.

If you're happy with an inch or slightly less and $1500 is your budget then you could also go with Koni yellow adjustable or Bilstein B6 shocks with a good quality spring (such as our RCE Yellow springs).

All of the above are good options. Personally I wouldn't use ST coilovers due to the finish...they'd get eaten up by rust where I live. For me it would come down to Bilstein PSS or Bilstein HD + RCE Yellows. I'd be happy with Koni Yellow too, but slightly prefer Bilstein.

- Andy
Why do you recommend the B6's over the B8's?
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:01 PM   #53
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Why do you recommend the B6's over the B8's?
I believe it's because Bilstein recommends the B8's as a stock replacement (perhaps with stock spring). And the B6's are aimed at lowered cars, which would be the case if you went with aftermarket springs (Eibach, Swift, RaceComp).
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:21 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Firestorm_86 View Post
I believe it's because Bilstein recommends the B8's as a stock replacement (perhaps with stock spring). And the B6's are aimed at lowered cars, which would be the case if you went with aftermarket springs (Eibach, Swift, RaceComp).
Other way around.

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/p...passenger-car/
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:31 PM   #55
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Why do you recommend the B6's over the B8's?
The valving on both is apparently the same, which is a disappointment.

The difference is the B8 has less droop travel, which is not desirable. Not a big deal, but there is no advantage to that.

The B8 "probably" has a shorter internal bumpstop for the fronts, which is nice. In the end for a mild drop spring like our RCE Yellows the B6 is probably the better fit. For a spring that's a little lower and softer up front, the B8 might work better.

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Old 09-24-2014, 04:06 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
The valving on both is apparently the same, which is a disappointment.

The difference is the B8 has less droop travel, which is not desirable. Not a big deal, but there is no advantage to that.

The B8 "probably" has a shorter internal bumpstop for the fronts, which is nice. In the end for a mild drop spring like our RCE Yellows the B6 is probably the better fit. For a spring that's a little lower and softer up front, the B8 might work better.

- Andy
Damn I should have saved money and gone with the B6s then.
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