Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[itdansharpe]

Your walkthrough inspired me to attempt this fun, cheap upgrade. I went with Tein H-Tech springs, which provide a conservative drop, and noticeably firmer ride. LOVING IT.

I didn't have a spring compressor, or air tools, and the job took me 3 hours and 50 minutes. Taking the springs off resorted to undoing the bolt and standing back. Rear springs don't even put up a fuss, the fronts popped off with a little bit more force. New springs just require some man-handling.

Thanks again for your write-up!

[ngabdala]

Anyone know how much the front and rear should be dropped to close the wheel well on the stock wheels and tires?

[70NYD]

Hi great writeup and looks like a lot has been covered with respect to prolonging the life of the dampner seals by not allowing it to turn when screwing the top nut down
I'd also like to point out that most of the nuts are not reusable, and the torque only applies to new nuts, not to already torqued ones as they might be deformed (throw away items)
Just something to keep in mind

[xjohnx]

thanks for the write-up! just finished!

[brz7400]

Is a vicegrip clamped on a deep socket enough to tighten the strut top bolt? Seems like that may be the free tool for it, although the socket would have some chew marks

[itdansharpe]

Originally Posted by brz7400

Is a vicegrip clamped on a deep socket enough to tighten the strut top bolt? Seems like that may be the free tool for it, although the socket would have some chew marks

I ended up using a C-clamp, as my particular socket was too slippery... but this method worked fine for me.

[F3dzo]

You guys could've ground two flat spots on each side of the socket and used an adjustable wrench?

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lange

It's usually a good idea to idea to load the rear suspension before torquing the bolts on a setup like this.

Jeff

I just installed some yellow springs and realize now that I didn't load the rear suspension when I torqued on these bolts. How bad is this?

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DarrenDriver, thanks for the DIY! During my install, I consulted RCE's instructions, GrimmSpeed's DIY, and yours...and yours was by far the best.

A couple things though...I really could NOT take off the strut top nut without an impact wrench (with the struts off the car and spring compressors on the springs). I guess people were able to do this, but I'm not sure how. I even had go-thru sockets+allen key and couldn't get the nut to turn. Maybe the trick is to loosen this nut while the strut is still on the car???? (Does the same thing go for tightening this nut? I'm a bit unsure about my method: I used the go-thru socket and allen key to hand tighten the nut, then I gave it a little whirl with the impact wrench...certainly not an exact torque spec!)

Also, some people (and the other instructions) say not to remove the bolt connecting the lower control arm to the hub, but your idea of removing this bolt really saved me and made removal/installation doable for me. I couldn't get the lower control arm low enough otherwise.

Finally though, I think your DIY and the other instructions don't mention how, for the rear struts, the lower bolt hole has to be aligned properly with the top bolts. I did this wrong at first, and I don't think the rear top hat swivels like the fronts. Am I missing something? In any event, if I'm right, it would be nice to mention that these have to be aligned properly.

Thanks again though...amazingly helpful DIY!

[deedz]

thanks darren! this diy really saved me, and thanks for those tips today! much appreciated bro

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Pics of the proper tools. Note, these both require spring compressors to be safe and I took these pics after the spring swap (was in a hurry to do the springs between the end of track sessions and our event banquet), normally you wouldn't use them on the car except to break the bolt loose.

Second, the GearRatchet made by Gearwrench:

Do you suggest we break loose the nut while the strut is in the car? If so we have to compress the springs first? Thanks

[Phaedrus29]

I realized today that once the struts are back on the car, you can use a torque wrench on the top nut of the rear struts (I BELIEVE) without anything spinning. I torqued those to 41ft-lbs...actually I had a ways to tighten after my little whirl with the impact wrench. This has me a bit worried about the front struts top nut being too loose...I'm still unsure how I would torque these down with my torque wrench. When I gave it a quick try there was a scary noise...clearly stuff was spinning since (unlike the rears) the front top hats allow swiveling.

It seems like something like this would work, but I can't find anything like this in the sizes we need:



Actually I just figured something out that works for torquing these nuts down, although it involves a crowfoot wrench so I'm not sure how accurate it is. Here's what I used:



6mm allen key, glove for holding the allen key in place, 17mm go-thru socket from harbor freight set (http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piec...set-67974.html), 19mm crowfoot wrench (for top of go-thru socket), and adapter to attach the crowfoot to my torque wrench.



My top nuts now seem to be at least 41 ft-lbs although I think it's possible they are over-torqued from my impact wrenching.

[brillo]

Originally Posted by DarrenDriven

I changed the DIY back to torquing the rear suspension in the air because I crawled under the car today to check something out and I realized that it is virtually impossible to torque those suckers while it is on the ground. It is a good idea in theory, but in application not really gonna happen.

Also, I added torque specs to the DIY, that should make things easier for people. Added the torque spec sheets at the very end of the DIY as well... I am pretty tired and I think that I got everything right, but if someone wants to double-check for me that would be great.

Great write up and feedback on the install. One question, should you only load the rear suspension before tightening or also the front as well? Aren't there bushings in the front?

[bpracer]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

I realized today that once the struts are back on the car, you can use a torque wrench on the top nut of the rear struts (I BELIEVE) without anything spinning. I torqued those to 41ft-lbs...actually I had a ways to tighten after my little whirl with the impact wrench. This has me a bit worried about the front struts top nut being too loose...I'm still unsure how I would torque these down with my torque wrench. When I gave it a quick try there was a scary noise...clearly stuff was spinning since (unlike the rears) the front top hats allow swiveling.

What you can use is a Max Axess socket set from Sears or I think Lowes has a similar type thing. They use a outer spline drive for the socket and the center is hollow allowing you to insert an allen wrench in the middle.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-20pc-...8&blockType=G8

You would have to torque it by feel, I don't think there is a torque wrench with this kind of setup.

[luxmn]

awesome guide, this is the car that i will finally able to learn how to do all the fundamental things with so i can teach my kids later.