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Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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01-15-2013, 10:54 AM | #113 |
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There are CAIs for the fr-s/brz.
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01-15-2013, 11:23 AM | #114 |
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my trackable street legal build suggestion
suspension $2400, to corner better, my GC race kit incl camber and strutbar FI $5000, to go faster, this is a out the door cost with Perrins Vortech Exhaust $1700, to enable you to go faster I went with Nonres headerback brakes $2000 to stop better since you go faster, suggest stoptech or sprint tune cable license $800 go with Perrins Vortech tune codeveloped with Vortech* wheels and tires $3000 lighter rims, stickier rubber is the name of this game I'd say $15k minimum play money to really have fun with OE motor and fuel system. *= not sure if his $4850 for the vortech included tune It can become $20k easy if you start being picky about stuff all it takes to spend another $5k if you add bits to any of the above start doing PSRS, bushings, arms, oil cooler, mounts etc, and its all kinda the right thing to do once you realize buying this car and subsequently modding it and THEN not tracking it is like buying a luggage set and never taking a vacation. can you just install a turbo? sure but with more power youre not gonna -add brake? -add oil cooler? -add exhaust FIRST? I never heard of no one adding a turbo to a stock exhaust system. My build to date maintains both cats, unless I add a header.. Its got unlimited mile warranty from Vortech and we're planning on 40k miles our 1st year on this thing. for me, yeah someday a motor build/shortblock may be in the future, and by then you've spent more than the cost of the car in mods, but you end up with a track toy that rivals cars costing 2x as much, so putting money into it seems to make sense if your goals are to mod Cheapest FI: if you wanted a turbo go with 5.5psi of avo, if you want cheapest sc go with the innovate stg1 but you'll see you need more tire then youll want more damper, and on it goes to tap any more boost out without modding further is silly when you look back you may have regrets about having gone cheapest FI why not just get a perrin tune intake and exhaust , keep it NA, and enjoy what ya got? I look at FI as an option for those who want to commit to modding a car, otherwise a Genesis may have been your better option budgetwise Last edited by gmookher; 01-15-2013 at 11:56 AM. |
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01-15-2013, 01:05 PM | #115 |
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^Exactly. It spikes up to the $20k range QUICK, the moment you start thinking that you want to go faster. When your driving skills start exceeding the limits of your vehicle, you either upgrade the vehicle, or upgrade to a higher caliber car. In either case the wallet takes a hit.
To add to that cost, Track days themselves are $200-500 dollars depending on the region and the track, for each event. Also to add, the faster you go, the more conscious you should be about your safety. So, then you get to: -Seats -Harness -Roll Bar/Cage That's another $1-2k (if you go with a full cage then close to another $3-5k). That's my favorite part about it all. Last edited by SnapOv3st3r; 01-15-2013 at 01:16 PM. |
01-15-2013, 01:22 PM | #116 |
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I have and will always preach the "Read before mod" method. Also known as knowing one's goal before applying action.
Why "read before mod"? Well if you're going to do anything in any competition regarding cars there will almost always be: Rules and Classes. Anyway to address all the long posts above I just wanted others reading to know that while playing with cars is expensive you don't have to have super deep pockets to play at the track, or even race a car (and by race I mean actual competition racing). You also don't have to have crazy go-fast parts, FI, massive tires etc etc.. Just a simple point of modding if you plan to do anything "sanctioned". Measure twice, cut once... save a bundle of $$ Edit: apologies for thread derailment.
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01-16-2013, 12:32 AM | #117 |
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