Mitsurugi: Reforged

[strmshadow84]

Don't know if it'll work for your situation but I had horrible battery drain in my ls swapped rx7 (more than likely from the keyless entry/push button start I installed) that would kill my battery after 1-2 days if I didn't crank it (got to less than a day). Bought this from amazon 2 weeks agao https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I've been able to leave the car off it's battery tender and have had no issues with the car, cranks first time every time. Also has a little battery booster built into it if the battery manages to drain. I have a Oddessy AGM battery.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by strmshadow84

Don't know if it'll work for your situation but I had horrible battery drain in my ls swapped rx7 (more than likely from the keyless entry/push button start I installed) that would kill my battery after 1-2 days if I didn't crank it (got to less than a day). Bought this from amazon 2 weeks agao https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I've been able to leave the car off it's battery tender and have had no issues with the car, cranks first time every time. Also has a little battery booster built into it if the battery manages to drain. I have a Oddessy AGM battery.

What is it? Like a mini battery?

The problem isn't battery"drain" on a 100% fully charged battery the voltage drops too far when cranking

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by strmshadow84

Don't know if it'll work for your situation but I had horrible battery drain in my ls swapped rx7 (more than likely from the keyless entry/push button start I installed) that would kill my battery after 1-2 days if I didn't crank it (got to less than a day). Bought this from amazon 2 weeks agao https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I've been able to leave the car off it's battery tender and have had no issues with the car, cranks first time every time. Also has a little battery booster built into it if the battery manages to drain. I have a Oddessy AGM battery.

Ok I had more time to look at this unit. It looks very useful but not for my current problem. My voltage is dipping too low with a brand new, fully charged battery. I suspect there problem is actually the ECU, not that there is anything wrong with the car itself.

I tried a capacitor (for audio systems). But it didn't have any affect. Now looking for some manner of secondary battery to power the ECU during cranking

[strmshadow84]

My issue was similar as in the battery would show 11.45-12 but when trying to crank it wouldn't be enough juice to actually turn the engine. Yea that unit has a little button you can press that gives the battery some extra juice for 1min to get it to crank. I haven't had to use it yet but could be a cheap possible solution for you, if your not able to track down your issue.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by strmshadow84

My issue was similar as in the battery would show 11.45-12 but when trying to crank it wouldn't be enough juice to actually turn the engine. Yea that unit has a little button you can press that gives the battery some extra juice for 1min to get it to crank. I haven't had to use it yet but could be a cheap possible solution for you, if your not able to track down your issue.

Interesting. My engine spins all day but(I believe and so does Phil from Element) that the ECU is getting fucked up from the voltage drop

[spitfire481]

try a larger positive cable direct from the battery to the starter and run a large ground from the starter bolt back to the battery if you can. We usually see low cranking voltage from trunk mounted batteries and small cables/ high resistance grounds

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by spitfire481

try a larger positive cable direct from the battery to the starter and run a large ground from the starter bolt back to the battery if you can. We usually see low cranking voltage from trunk mounted batteries and small cables/ high resistance grounds

I'm using the stock starter cables but I tried the GM starter cables. No difference. Tested voltage drop in the cables with no unreasonable results. Forgot to test it in the starter though...

New development however: connected the ECU to a lawn mower battery to isolate it from the voltage drop at the starter. No change in performance. Car has been running/starting worse since I got my new new spark plug wires though. New new spark plugs come in today. Will check resistance on plug wires and make sure everything is tight before trying again. I don't expect to see a change though.

UPDATE: new 2 gauge starter cables have helped me. If you're having problems, do this first since it's cheapest

[Ashikabi]

I've got a bit of an update but I need some wiring help first. I blew some fuses and a malfunction so I ripped out my aftermarket keyless entry. This tied into the ignition and several other wires. All the OEM wires are intact. Now my ECU isn't getting power. There is a relay in my Hydra harness (adapts OEM ECU connectors to the Hydra unit) which switches power for the Hydra. Relay works fine. It switches with power through OEM connector A33 pin 27. Can someone draw me a picture or something showing where I should be looking for problems? I don't have a great understanding of the wiring diagrams so what I do understand I have to constantly question if it's even right to begin with

[Ashikabi]

Ok. Actual update since I solved my shit...I took Phil's advice begrudgingly... Bought a BIG FUCKING BATTERY: XS Power D3400R. Had something like 1100 cranking amps. It helped but the starter was still kicking pretty bad. But my voltage started about 10V at initial crank. I apparently didn't take a picture of this battery but it is the exact size of the stock battery tray. An 1/8" bigger and it wouldn't have fit.

So I got a Proform starter with a 2.2kw motor and a 3.6(?) Geared down ratio. I honestly thought this starter would spin faster but it turns the motor at a solid 200rpm. No kicking (which was destroying my flywheel). I did have to cut out some of the bracing on my passenger motor mount though (see pics). A stock "style" starter wouldn't have required cutting. And I couldn't say for sure but just a stronger OEM style one may have been good enough since I was running a cheap remanufactured starter.

While the new Proform starter spun the motor beautifully, the voltage dropped too low to start reliably. I didn't really have any where to go from here so I got some 2ga starter cables from Bomgaars(farm supply) and hacked em up to work with my application. It honestly did help with the voltage. Not by much but it stays above 10v now.

BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE!... Somehow in all this, my aftermarket push start/keyless entry/remote start took a fat shit all over itself. Was in the middle of cranking and all my lights went out. Then my horn started blasting. Only stopped when I disconnected my keyless unit. But it took a few fuses with it. Got the fuses fixed and just left the push start shit partially plugged in... Blew another fuse, but I couldn't find it. Got pissed, ripped out the push start since I knew it was faulty anyways, still nothing. My ECU want getting power. Hunted for a couple days. Traced all the ignition wires back to their next connection to test for continuity and sure as fuck the green/orange wire had blown the 40 amp side of the triple stack fuse under the hood. Replaced it and everything seems golden.

Starting is a night and day difference. Still wants to start and run shitty. But at least it wants to start each time now

[Ashikabi]

I'm updating my first post with an updated review of the build (so new people to the thread will see it right away).

[Ashikabi]

@Swift I'm updating some posts and I saw you asked for a tally. See my first post for details

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by vijay.dy06

Following. I too am using a Nemesis with a 5.7 LS1. Who are you goi g to have tune it? I'm still collecting parts and 80% complete.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

You still doing this setup? Want to compare tuning notes sometime?

[vijay.dy06]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

You still doing this setup? Want to compare tuning notes sometime?

Man sucks to hear about all your problems. Yeah I'm still running the same setup and had a seamless swap process. I haven't gotten it tuned yet though. Been deployed after I got it up and running. I will be tearing it apart again to install some new goodies that I've purchased this coming winter, and then I'll get it tuned. I can send you my base tune that I got from Phil if you want, it runs the car fairly well.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by vijay.dy06

Man sucks to hear about all your problems. Yeah I'm still running the same setup and had a seamless swap process. I haven't gotten it tuned yet though. Been deployed after I got it up and running. I will be tearing it apart again to install some new goodies that I've purchased this coming winter, and then I'll get it tuned. I can send you my base tune that I got from Phil if you want, it runs the car fairly well.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Naw my tune seems pretty solid I guess. Just had a ton of issues along the way