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Old 04-12-2013, 01:52 PM   #29
CSG Mike
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Originally Posted by ninetysixzee View Post
What oil temps were you seeing at ACS? I've run at Buttonwillow 13CW and SOW (CW and CCW) in ambient temps of up to 75 deg F and have seen oil go up to 270 deg F. Stock FR-S with Michelin PSS and Carbotech XP10/XP8 only. Average times 2:12 at BW and 1:33 at SOW so not very quick.
That's a question I can't answer... cuz we don't have a temp sensor. The shop car is built pretty lean.

Does the ECU have a oil temp reading that we can log?
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:10 PM   #30
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That's a question I can't answer... cuz we don't have a temp sensor. The shop car is built pretty lean.

Does the ECU have a oil temp reading that we can log?
Yes, it's in the ECU.
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:46 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by CBR600RR View Post
OP: have you considered using Engine Ice or Water Wetter? both are known to lower engine temps
I use water wetter in my two wheeled track toy(certain events don't allow anti freeze in the bikes on the track, in case you spill some when crashing!). It's fine as long as you keep it in a heated garage during the winter. If you use it in your car and you live in a cold climet, you run the risk of freezing you water wetter, it's not much good below freezing.
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:54 PM   #32
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I use water wetter in my two wheeled track toy(certain events don't allow anti freeze in the bikes on the track, in case you spill some when crashing!). It's fine as long as you keep it in a heated garage during the winter. If you use it in your car and you live in a cold climet, you run the risk of freezing you water wetter, it's not much good below freezing.
Ya, I also use water wetter in my bike when I take it to the track. I swap it for reg coolant ever winter cause I am up in Canada.

Using it in the track bike is what gave me the idea to suggest it to the OP.
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:20 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
That's a question I can't answer... cuz we don't have a temp sensor. The shop car is built pretty lean.

Does the ECU have a oil temp reading that we can log?
I use a bluetooth dongle connected to the OBD II port to communicate with a tablet running Android and the Torque Pro app. It allows monitoring of engine oil temp along with other parameters.

See this thread
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23530&
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:32 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ninetysixzee View Post
I use a bluetooth dongle connected to the OBD II port to communicate with a tablet running Android and the Torque Pro app. It allows monitoring of engine oil temp along with other parameters.

See this thread
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23530&
Looks like I'll have to convince the CSG bosses to buy a kiwi or similar...

I just sold my Nexus 7
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Old 04-30-2016, 07:09 AM   #35
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Anyone know what normal coolant Temps should be? I've been hitting around 197°f easily just driving about 25 miles to work it is Tc just trying to get a basic idea of what Temps you guys usually see.

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Old 04-30-2016, 09:13 AM   #36
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Anyone know what normal coolant Temps should be? I've been hitting around 197°f easily just driving about 25 miles to work it is Tc just trying to get a basic idea of what Temps you guys usually see.

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Normal temps like most cars will be 88-90C On the track I'm yet to see over 105C on the hottest of days.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:41 AM   #37
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Anyone know what normal coolant Temps should be? I've been hitting around 197°f easily just driving about 25 miles to work it is Tc just trying to get a basic idea of what Temps you guys usually see.

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On the track, the highest peak coolant temp I've recorded was ~210 F in the middle of the summer. (If I remember correctly, that was a hot day and my oil temps were peaking ~245 F with Perrin oil cooler.) Typically my coolant temps sit at 203-206 F.

On the street, my coolant temps hover right around 190-195 F.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:05 PM   #38
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I have asked and everyone seems to say "have not seen an issue".
But, so far in the testing I have been doing the coolant temps on this car run high, don't know if it is a subaru thing or just my car.

But the dash gauge is not showing any movement yet when hooked into OBD2 I am seeing idle temps as high as 217F autox and track also showing peaks of 220.

I first noticed this on baseline dyno testing where the engine was constantly pulling timing because of coolant temp.

Can some of you autox and track guys run an OBD2 check on yours?
Keep in mind the temp gauge in the car does not move from middle whether its 190 to 220.
Just looked at one of my videos that I had the ECT displayed on. 183. The first thing I would do is test the ECT sensor on your car. There should be a procedure for testing it with a specific resistance at a specific temperature. It's possible the sensor is not providing an accurate reading. There really isn't any reason your car should be running that hot unless something isn't right. I may be wrong of course. If the ECT sensor is cheap enough and easy to replace, it might even be worthwhile to swap it and see what happens.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:14 AM   #39
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Anyone know what normal coolant Temps should be? I've been hitting around 197°f easily just driving about 25 miles to work it is Tc just trying to get a basic idea of what Temps you guys usually see.

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Totally normal.

If you're getting over 105C/221F, then I'd be worried.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:25 AM   #40
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Totally normal.

If you're getting over 105C/221F, then I'd be worried.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:35 PM   #41
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Track water temperatures

I will pitch in for the first time in these forums because I have learned a great deal about this topic. I tracked my BRZ naturally aspirated for over 10,000 miles in many race tracks around our Country. I regularly instruct with a number of clubs so I drive my car really hard. I have been using factory coolant all along.
In naturally aspirated form I never had any issues with stock radiator and fans. Never saw the water needle past the middle position.
I ran a flex-fuel Delicious e-tune and I had factory exhaust all the way. The oil cooler did not really affected in any way the water temperatures by blocking some direct air flow through the radiator.
I installed a Jackson Racing C-38 Supercharger a few months back along with a ceramic coated header and no cats all the way back. I am running 93 and it is making 275 WHP and 225 ft-lbs peak torque.
The water temperatures increased immediately up to 220 F (the needle will be around 3/4 tot he right between half and hot).
I took 8 directional improvement to the cooling system after SCH due to the heavy track duty.
1) Veloxi hood louvers.
2) Koyo racing Radiator.
3) Mishimoto racing fans with aluminum housing. Re-wired fans to run wiring through the top and not the bottom of the fan shroud to get them away from the header pipe.
4) Mishomoto higher pressure cooling cap with aluminum housing.
5) Perrin aluminum overflow bottle.
6) Mishimoto racing thermostat.
7) Perrin cooling hoses all around
8) Besides the ceramic coating in the header and pipes, I heat blanketed it all since it runs very close to the right fan.
All of these combined have kept my water temps just fine in 95+ F track days for the last 4000 miles.
A week ago we triple stinted my car the whole day. It ran perfect. Out of the three drivers I am the one that drives it significantly harder and even for me the water temp stayed in the center all day.
I do not even log temperatures anymore since water temps are a non- issue.
We always blow the heater full blast on the passenger side while on track and that seems to help. With mandatory open windows in most HPDE clubs this is not an issue. I have been doing this since the supercharger and full flow header and exhaust was installed.
If you only run in the street and even perhaps for Autocross, you really do not have to do anything like I did.
If you beat the car in the track as hard as I do, you have to take care of it like I did. The fact that you have a charge air cooler, an oil cooler and a supercharger oil cooler in front of the radiator certainly affects and limits air flow through the radiator regardless. Our cars already have a limited air flow by design. Try comparing the front to a Mitsubishi EVO for instance.
Ideally, I would love to see a water inter-cooler under the hood or perhaps a dual side to side charge air cooler setup for the supercharger instead of the front mounted charge air cooler blocking the radiator. I hope this is helpful folks.
UPDATE on 2/22/2017:
My engine blew up back in October in my last track day of 2016. As always before anything blows, it was running great when all of a sudden, oil in the windshield and flames shooting at me through the hood louvers accompanied by 5 minutes of postmortem smoke. Car did not had a thermal event because I actually blocked the louvers with the weathertec mat from my trunk. Autopsy revealed 2 rods poking through the block. All I am going to say is that I am already running in a brand new 2017 long block (With improved pistons and valves) along with my always faithful and reliable NA e85 delicious tune that gives me more torque than I had with the supercharger coming out of any turn and actually gets me faster around any race track (I have proven it and documented it in 6 different race tracks and it is simply due to no low end torque supercharger parasitic losses). I guess all the cooling improvements I did and mentioned in this thread will stay for added capacity except the Mishimoto thermostat that I reverted to factory. I added a swayne coating into the equal length headers and I also had to add a Jackson Racing oil cooler and re-install the factory air box with a K&N filter since these parts were parted when I sold the supercharger kit. Many theories came about my problem but the one that really stuck in my head was that I was told my tune was bad... (Really, 2 different tunes one being dyno developed, I highly doubt it). At the end of the day and the main reason I came back here to tell whomever wants to listen, I could not keep the water as cool as it was in naturally aspirated form and I damn tried. It evolved into very high engine coolant and oil temperatures that in terms contributed to the engine failure. The FA20 is a very strong motor and it takes a lot of abuse to blow it like this. Moral of the story, if you track your car as heavily as I do, think twice blocking the front of your radiator with anything bigger than an oil cooler. If you force induct it, try other means of charge air cooling it but DO NOT BLOCK THE RADIATOR. Think of the WRX and STI from factory. My 2 cents.

Last edited by AndyBRZ; 02-22-2017 at 09:12 PM. Reason: CHAIN OF EVENTS
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:39 AM   #42
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I hope these comments help the OP and the track junkies like me out there.
OP hasn't had his car since the end of 2014.
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