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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 04-19-2015, 06:59 PM   #197
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Direct Injector Seal Installation | Video and Issues

Wow!!!!
Wuts the symptoms on the car lead to your decision of pullinf the DI out?

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Old 04-19-2015, 07:23 PM   #198
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Clearly audible knocking, also CEL related to misfiring on that one cylinder, if I remember correctly. Knocking actually got worse as I waited for the parts to arrive, I wasn't driving the car daily but I was driving it a few miles every week to prevent the lightweight battery from dying.
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:29 PM   #199
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Im about to pull all DIs out to inspect


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Old 05-08-2015, 11:44 AM   #200
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Pulled my DI seals after 57k miles and after 20 or so hard track days (most of which were while FI). They look ok?

Some of them were coated with thin layer of engine oil when I pulled them out (not reflected in photos as I had wiped them clean) is that normal?









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Old 05-09-2015, 12:31 AM   #201
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Mines looked very similar after 25k miles (except for the seal that was gone on cyl 1)
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Old 05-14-2015, 02:04 AM   #202
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After successfully replacing injector seals and putting everything back together, my engine would crank, rev for a second and then stall. Spent two weeks trying to figure out what was wrong. Changed spark plugs (PITA!), rechecked all harnesses and hoses... no dice. Turned out the MAF sensor (the one by the air inlet hose) was dirty. Blowing into the MAF and plugging it back in fixed it
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Old 10-07-2015, 05:18 PM   #203
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Time to bump this thread back to life. My engine is getting rebuilt and I've got the injectors out so I might as well replace the seals while the injectors are out. The seals actually look amazing considering my early 2013 build date.

I've spent way to much searching and I can not definitively say what part number I need. It looks like 16608 is the right one, however, there is an A, B, and C and they are different full length part numbers (16608JB000, 16608JB010, and 16608KA000 respectively). Can anyone confirm which ones to order? At less than $3/piece I figured I would order 6-10 just to have some on hand and in case I destroy any during instillation.
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Old 10-08-2015, 02:41 AM   #204
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I wonder if a dealership could install the seals (just handing them the injectors w/o car) at a decent cost? I'm rebuilding my engine so this will be something I'm gonna need to look into very soon.
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Old 10-08-2015, 02:28 PM   #205
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Seals aren't difficult. It just requires a bit of practice (and buying the specific tool). Just buy plenty of spare seals because they're super soft and you will most likely damage a few of them with your nails on your first try.

Honestly, 95% of the labor is removing stuff so you can reach the injectors, and then putting everything back on.

I will try to dig up the parts list from when I did my seals..
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Old 10-09-2015, 01:05 PM   #206
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Has anyone been able to confirm what the seal P/N is?
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Old 10-09-2015, 01:36 PM   #207
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:06 AM   #208
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Originally Posted by TEWwild View Post
First off, HUGE thanks @Dezoris for this video, not sure I would have tried it without seeing it. I replaced my seals about 2 weeks ago and my car has been running great since, no more firecrackers!! My #3(passenger side/rear) injector seal was gone and the other 3 were "burnt"/damaged... After fighting the seals onto the holder portion of the tool I came up with the following procedure to install them.

http://youtu.be/FLrM3X4WLCc


I used this procedure for the last 2 seals and it actually made the process of moving the ring over the seal to reset it much easier as well because it resulted in no deformation of the seal.
Pic of the seal after using this procedure: Results.jpg
All 4: As they came out.jpg


#3: #3.jpg


#1: #1.jpg


Hope this makes the job a little less frustrating for everyone!!
Stroke of genius, really. Nice and thanks! But what is that purple implement you are using? I'm assuming it's made of plastic?

And then what did you do to push it off the spindle and onto the injector shaft itself? Continued with the drill?
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:31 AM   #209
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Seems like this thread has slowed down a bit. Solution for now seems to be for people to pull their DI's out and just replace the seals, either preemptively, or in response to combustion gases escaping past burnt DI seals. This is hardly ideal, to state the obvious. Even the TSB of reflashing the ECU seems to be a crap-shoot as people have had the issue afterward as well.

So what gives? (I realize no one has an answer to this yet, but I'm just lamenting out-loud here.)

Are we to just sock these DI seals under the consumables category along with tires, pads, and engine oil? That just seems silly especially given the cost of having to replace all the high pressure fuel lines each and every time you do this --- and that's not even saying anything about the labor time. WTF.
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:44 AM   #210
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Most everyone I know seems to be doing fine after replacing DI seals once, but a few hardcore track/autox guys are on their 3rd set already.

I'll probably replace mine again next summer, if only because I'm curious how they're holding up.
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