A new transmission option

[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Sorry for late response but it uses clutch for the nissan. I have the tilton twin carbon and asked for the center that fits the nissan, they priced it at $590.00. I'm like wow so I took the subaru center and a small file and filed the splines a little to fit the nissan input. Same spline count just about iirc .020" difference.

What I used for depth was 5.750" from bellhousing face to front bearing retainer surface.
Bellhousing milled off cd009 to bearing flange. Fa20 bellhousing milled from back to 5.750 from engine face.

To center I used an aluminum shaft turned down to fit the front input bearing of each. After welding I removed aluminuim shaft and cut out the center of the fa20 bellhousing.

Subaru clutch filed to Nissan input shaft?
That would simplify clutch + flywheel combo


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Yes it took about an hour but it saved me $590.00
I used a small file from Harbor freight

It would be awesome to have a broach it would be a 5 min job and perfect.

Love your style. I have plenty of fancy schmancy tools but my half-round diamond jewelers file is always within reach.

[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Yes it took about an hour but it saved me $590.00
I used a small file from Harbor freight

It would be awesome to have a broach it would be a 5 min job and perfect.

Thanks so much for the advice. One final question, what did you machine on the flywheel?

Planning on going boost over the course of this winter and will use my first faulty trans bell housing in this project


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[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I didn't. Not a thing on the flywheel.

You machines the bushing to fit the flywheel, I misunderstood above, thanks for clarification


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[PearlAozora]

I’m currently just trying to source someone’s broken transmission as the final piece to action this project.
What did you do for clutch line?


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[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Tools pay for themselfs

I'm intrigued by the tax implications of this statement.

[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Its a tilton internal slave throwout bearing that came with the clutch. It has a #3 an line. My cd009 had the internal slave. So i cut the tube off the brz that the throwout slides on and interference fit it in the cd009 bearing plate. I used heat to expand the plate and dropped the tube in it for the interference fit. Tilton throwout is held on tube by silicone. per instructions.

Some of the cd009 has a factory internal slave throwout. You could use it. If your using a higher pressure plate you should probably check the 370 forums to see how durable it is with more pressure.
Tilton makes a slave that bolts directly to the late cd009 internal slaves.
I ran the stock master for awhile but I went to a smaller toyota pickup master to increase the release to grab distance.

Awesome info.
Do you think using the factory release bearing(replaced with new/aftermarket) would be doable as well?
Tilton Hydraulic release looks decent too


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[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Yes it should work.

Thanks. Planning on trying with the new bearing that came with the new clutch, If it doesn’t look like traditional pivot/fork will work I’ll invest in hydraulic release.


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[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Attachment 183445

This what centers the bellhousing. Bolt goes through center with a piece of bar that pulls the two together while welding. You can see the difference in input bearing size between brz and cd009. Top brz od 1st step is the 95mm cd009. This is a 95mm cd009. My samurai has the 100mm bearing. There is also a 90mm one.

Did you take any pictures looking toward the inside of the bell housing by chance? Excited for this project. Should “bulletproof” a boosted track brz.

[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

No, I did not. what I did was every thing that was left inside the brz bellhousing before welding, was cut a notch from the back side, then after welding I cut the front to the notch. The inside is not as pretty as the outside but it works. I could have did better on the inside but I got impatient.

Okay sweet.
So the BRZ bellhousing and CD009 lines up good for the most part? Some areas straight weld and some areas you utilized spare aluminum to bridge from CD009 to bellhousing?


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[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

The bottom of brz bellhousing is cut out and plate welded in its place to make enough room to put the cd009 bearing retainer in. The bearing plate also had to be clearenced on the pry tabs.

Awesome appreciate the help I could see the bearing retainer was far too big for the BRZ bellhousing but that solution seems straight forward.
You cut the CD009 at the second mould “ring” correct?
Curious to what you did for reverse lockout. This is a sweet project you took on


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[PearlAozora]

Let the fun begin


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[PearlAozora]

My CD009 ended up coming with a driveshaft as well happy days. Found someone local that will adapt it cheaply for the BRZ.
Stock BRZ throw out bearing looks like it’ll work perfectly. Debating ordering a custom clutch or filing down a stage 3 clutch I buy. Unsure if its worth the risk LOL. Couldn’t be more pumped to get this show on the road thanks for all the help SolidSnake


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[PearlAozora]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Your welcome.
If your going use the stock fork and pivot. You might look into reinforcing the fork, some have said it flexes.
The 350z driveshaft is a little short so it has have a spacer.

I’m getting the 350 driveshaft retubed by a local company to the correct length, $300 but well worth it IMO.
I’m looking into reinforcing the fork after feeling the difference between the BRZ & 350 forks. BRZs feels like a twig in comparison.


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