Rear end locked up? CEL: P0500 / P2404 now p0700 / U0122

[ZOMFGAARON]

I was driving my car when it started acting like it wanted to die, I slowed down and the car died. Upon trying to turn it off and back on it would not move. The rear end has locked up for some unknown reason at the time. I was able to move the car out of the street where it died. Also for some reason my transmission would allow me to go down to drive and neutral but would not allow me to go back up to reverse or park after, I had to override it using the shift lock button. Upon starting the car again I received not only a CEL but a ABS/Traction control/ Power steering light. I looked into the codes I received which were P0500 / P2404 here on the forums and most people stated to replace the rear speed sensors, I replaced both and I'm still having the same issues. Replacing them did fix the issue of getting the car back into park/reverse but the rear end is still locked up.
I have also lost the power steering light. Ive attempted to reset the ECU via disconnecting the battery as well as attempting the "pedal dance" to over ride ABS/Traction control.

I'm still getting the P0500 error which from my understanding shouldn't cause this issue and the car should still be driving.

I'm just looking for suggestions on what else it could be or if anyone has had a similar issue?


Mods related to the issue:
"hater pipes" straight from header back (causing the emissions code)
Lowered (unsure of the amount) on ST XTA coilovers w/ end links.

If this has been covered I'm sorry I searched and no one had an identical issue.
I'd be happy if someone could point me in the right direction.

[Ultramaroon]

I don't think the rear end is "locked up." I think what you're trying to describe is the ABS/VSC unit incorrectly thinking one of your wheels is spinning out of control. That's exactly what is indicated by the p0500 - that "The vehicle speed signal from the driving wheels is 300 km/h or more for 2.5 seconds or more."

It'll apply brakes to the spinning wheel to get it under control. That's what you are feeling.

[ZOMFGAARON]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I don't think the rear end is "locked up." I think what you're trying to describe is the ABS/VSC unit incorrectly thinking one of your wheels is spinning out of control. That's exactly what is indicated by the p0500 - that "The vehicle speed signal from the driving wheels is 300 km/h or more for 2.5 seconds or more."

It'll apply brakes to the spinning wheel to get it under control. That's what you are feeling.

I mean you’d think the brakes would let up if the cars being dragged don’t you?


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ZOMFGAARON

I mean you’d think the brakes would let up if the cars being dragged don’t you?

Nope. It'll ride the brake as long as it thinks the wheel's spinning. Bet it gets super fucking hot too. Pull the ABS fuse if you absolutely need to drive it.

[ZOMFGAARON]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Nope. It'll ride the brake as long as it thinks the wheel's spinning. Bet it gets super fucking hot too. Pull the ABS fuse if you absolutely need to drive it.

I did pull it an nothing is there a specific one cause I pulled #1&2 under the bay


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ZOMFGAARON

I did pull it an nothing is there a specific one cause I pulled #1&2 under the bay


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You mean ABS 1 & 2, or fuse 1 and 2? If you pulled the correct fuses then, shit, I'm stumped.

[ZOMFGAARON]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

You mean ABS 1 & 2, or fuse 1 and 2? If you pulled the correct fuses then, shit, I'm stumped.

ABS 1&2 but should I pull them and try to reset the Ecu? Or hypothetically would just pulling them fix the issue?


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ZOMFGAARON

ABS 1&2 but should I pull them and try to reset the Ecu? Or hypothetically would just pulling them fix the issue?


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It won't fix the issue but the diff should no longer be locking. It's more a troubleshooting and emergency-driving step

[ZOMFGAARON]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

It won't fix the issue but the diff should no longer be locking. It's more a troubleshooting and emergency-driving step

I pulled both abs #1 and #2 fuses one 40 / one 25 amp fuse and still have abs lights on the dash. Should they have disappeared ?


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[strat61caster]

Well no since you pulled the fuse the ABS isn't working and the car is like 'hey shits broken and federally mandated yo' and keeps the ABS light on.

Like Ultra is saying, with the ABS fuses pulled the car should drive normally if his hypothesis is correct and you can begin checking the wheel speed sensors for damage or issues, maybe the ABS unit itself but those are typically very robust.

[ZOMFGAARON]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Well no since you pulled the fuse the ABS isn't working and the car is like 'hey shits broken and federally mandated yo' and keeps the ABS light on.

Like Ultra is saying, with the ABS fuses pulled the car should drive normally if his hypothesis is correct.

Ive pulled the fuses and the issue that I had prior where I can go down to r/n/d but not back up to P/R is back. Any suggestions ?

I’m going to pull all four wheels off tomorrow and inspect all abs sensors/brakes/axles and hubs. Anything anyone could advise me to look for would be appreciated.


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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by ZOMFGAARON

Ive pulled the fuses and the issue that I had prior where I can go down to r/n/d but not back up to P/R is back. Any suggestions ?

I’m going to pull all four wheels off tomorrow and inspect all abs sensors/brakes/axles and hubs. Anything anyone could advise me to look for would be appreciated.


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All the wheels should spin freely in the air if the car is in neutral and the handbrake off.

I don't know enough about how the AT works to diagnose the gear selection thing. Good luck

[ZOMFGAARON]

I was able to pull more codes


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[Ultramaroon]

None of the codes mean anything with the fuses pulled. Like I said, it's just to test and get you home.


For instance, of course the ECU lost communications with the vehicle dynamics control module. Its fuse is pulled. Try just pulling the number 1 fuse, the big one. I'm pretty sure that's just for the pump motor.