Wheel stud replacement

[Nickosport]

Originally Posted by stevesnj

From experience i learned that this is the worst way to do this, All you need to do is use the brake adjuster "star wheel" from the front of the hub, loosen and the drum rotor will slide right off.

He was talking about removing the hub from the e-brake assembly, not the rotor from the hub.

[_sams86_]

Just order the studs from Subaru dealer for 3$
Toyota charges 8$ per stud and they're the same

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by __Shamy__

Just order the studs from Subaru dealer for 3$
Toyota charges 8$ per stud and they're the same

Except the part where they're horseshit. The whole reason this thread exists.

[_sams86_]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Except the part where they're horseshit. The whole reason this thread exists.

I don't disagree with you, i was saying more of when you need to replace 1 or 2 and aren't able to fork over 130-150 for a new set of ARP studs.

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by __Shamy__

I don't disagree with you, i was saying more of when you need to replace 1 or 2 and aren't able to fork over 130-150 for a new set of ARP studs.

True. I did that a few times before I just said FK it and went ARP

[_sams86_]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

True. I did that a few times before I just said FK it and went ARP

Happened to me yesturday 😅


Sent from my Nokia using Tapatalk

[ChrisD]

I hate to be that guy who says there is no problem when plenty of other people say there is, but I really don't think the stock wheel studs are bad. Perhaps a lot of you are just over tightening them?

I've taken the front and rear wheels off at least 30 times, and not a single one of my threads on any of the wheel studs are showing any sign of stripping.

Every time I've put the wheels back on, I use a torque wrench to torque the wheel nuts up to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) as per the service manual instructions.

A lot of other people I know who work on their own cars say that you should just do them as tight as you can... so I'm guessing a lot of people in this thread that have stripped the stock threads might have followed that same theory. The only time I've ever stripped any bolt threads was when I got the wrong torque value for a bolt that holds the rear lower control arms to the suspension strut, and over tightened it by 30 Nm. So if you guys are tightening the wheel nuts up

Maybe I've just been lucky, but it seems unlikely considering the number of times I've had the wheels off.

[qoncept]

Originally Posted by ChrisD

Perhaps a lot of you are just over tightening them?

I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not. Mine were never unusable but they were definitely stretched and wanted to crossthread after taking the wheels off a handful of times. I torque to 80ftlbs. I wonder if the studs have been improved since the first models.

[ChrisD]

Originally Posted by qoncept

I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not. Mine were never unusable but they were definitely stretched and wanted to crossthread after taking the wheels off a handful of times. I torque to 80ftlbs. I wonder if the studs have been improved since the first models.

Ah ok, fair enough. I just thought it might explain why a lot of people have issues but I've taken them off loads and never had even the slightest issue with cross threading or breaking. Maybe it's just luck if you get good bolts or bad bolts.

Oh and mine is an older model btw, 2012.

[fizzymike]

Are 5mm spacers safe on stock studs?

[kch]

Originally Posted by fizzymike

Are 5mm spacers safe on stock studs?

I wouldn't.

[modernbeat]

Originally Posted by fizzymike

Are 5mm spacers safe on stock studs?

No. 3mm can be safe, depending on the pad depth of the wheel.

[DarkSideFRS]

Originally Posted by bpracer

Using the tool suggested by jdrxb9 post below, I was a bit overzealous removing all the studs from my rear hub to install my 10mm Ichiba spacer kit.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...58&postcount=4

Tool prep-
The fork on the tool needs to be opened up slightly, a file would work but a right angle grinder with a flap wheel is much faster. Also, it would be good to shorten the forks a bit to hit the fulcrum in the sweet spot of the tool. Be sure to use a good grease on the tool threads or it will self-destruct faster.

sorry for bumping an old thread, but can the tool still be used without this modification? I've read through this thread and u're the only person who did the modification to the tool. it looks like you're just shortening the fork and expanding the opening inside the fork?

Also, it looks like I can just slip the tool between the hub and backing plate based on your picture. I'm trying not to remove the hub if possible as I'm just putting in OEM-length studs

[Leonardo]

I will be doing the rears tonight.


Ordered 10. 11 arrived.


via Imgflip Meme Generator