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Old 06-25-2012, 10:01 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by RallySport Direct View Post
As per SOA FSM the torque spec on the filter is 10.3ft-lb, and 28.9 ft-lb for the drain plug

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So do people on the forum use torque wrenches? It has been a very long time since I have changed my own oil. If so, what would you recommend I get ?
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:30 PM   #16
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Well, for 18 years I've been doing this. Fill filter half way up with oil, oil the gasket, spin it on until catches then do 1 more turn or until lightly hand tight. If you can't loosen it by hand when you're trying to remove then you put it on too tight... usually.

As for the drain plug, if you use aluminum crush washers then as the bolt snugs up it will be tight-ish and then you'll feel a little 1/8th turn of the washer crushing. Once the washer has "crushed" you're there.

Or if you're not sensitive to these things just use the torque stick and be done with it.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:30 PM   #17
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I just bought two oil filters at my Subaru dealer, P/N 15208AA130. They are OEM Tokyo Roki filters.

I did forget to get a couple of drain plug seal washers.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zgrinch View Post
So do people on the forum use torque wrenches? It has been a very long time since I have changed my own oil. If so, what would you recommend I get ?


I never personally use a torque wrench when doing an oil change, but I would highly recommend having a torque wrench on hand any time you work on your car.

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:45 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RallySport Direct View Post
I never personally use a torque wrench when doing an oil change, but I would highly recommend having a torque wrench on hand any time you work on your car.

Thanks!
Rick


Just make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:47 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Marrk View Post
Just make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated.

This x100!!


Thanks,
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zgrinch View Post
So do people on the forum use torque wrenches? It has been a very long time since I have changed my own oil. If so, what would you recommend I get ?
Didn't Sean tell you that you get 2 years of free maintenance with the car. Shouldn't have to change your own oil til year 3!
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:15 PM   #22
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Didn't Sean tell you that you get 2 years of free maintenance with the car. Shouldn't have to change your own oil til year 3!
Any Subie dealer or yours?
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:26 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by baldolera View Post
Nice. Don't forget to mention that you should lube up the oil filter gasket with a little oil! Now, I just hope someone posts a DIY on a Fumoto Drain Valve and a review on it as well.
I just installed a Fumoto Valve on my BRZ. I obviously haven't had a chance to use it, but I have used the valve on my other cars.

First off, the proper Fumoto valve is the 16mm version that the current Subaru Outback and '12+ Impreza uses. It comes in two versions, with or without a hose nipple. I recommend getting the one without.

I purchased the one with the nipple and the end of the nipple is flush with the skid plate. If I run over anything, I risk having the valve ripped out of the pan and running the engine dry. So at my next change I'll be switching back to the regular Fumoto that I've used on my other cars.

The Fumoto valves are great pieces. Unlike some other quick drain valves that just use a knurled plug within another plug, the Fumoto uses a true ball-valve. This gives two layers of sealing when closed. Additionally the lever for opening the valve is held in a positively locked position by an internal spring. An external spring clamp is available to add second layer of protection against vibration.

Using the valve is easy. You lift the lever out of it's seat and rotate it 90 degrees to open the valve. When done, just move the lever back and let it seat back into it's locked position.

I love the valve because it makes the draining process much faster and cleaner. When you pull out a drain plug your hand is momentarily in the way of the oil flow. And anyone who's changed a Subaru's oil will tell you that when you pull that plug, the oil comes out like a hose and even quick fingers will get splashed with oil. Using the valve, the smaller aperture slows the dpeed of the draining oil, and the level is on the side of the valve, letting you keep your hand out of the way and dry. And of course, no tools or loose drain plugs to deal with.

I highly recommend picking these up for your cars if you do your own changes. For the BRZ/FR-S get the F-108. There are valves for tons of vehicles available. But as this thread was started by a vendor, I won't post direct links.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draco-REX View Post
I just installed a Fumoto Valve on my BRZ. I obviously haven't had a chance to use it, but I have used the valve on my other cars.

First off, the proper Fumoto valve is the 16mm version that the current Subaru Outback and '12+ Impreza uses. It comes in two versions, with or without a hose nipple. I recommend getting the one without.

I purchased the one with the nipple and the end of the nipple is flush with the skid plate. If I run over anything, I risk having the valve ripped out of the pan and running the engine dry. So at my next change I'll be switching back to the regular Fumoto that I've used on my other cars.

The Fumoto valves are great pieces. Unlike some other quick drain valves that just use a knurled plug within another plug, the Fumoto uses a true ball-valve. This gives two layers of sealing when closed. Additionally the lever for opening the valve is held in a positively locked position by an internal spring. An external spring clamp is available to add second layer of protection against vibration.

Using the valve is easy. You lift the lever out of it's seat and rotate it 90 degrees to open the valve. When done, just move the lever back and let it seat back into it's locked position.

I love the valve because it makes the draining process much faster and cleaner. When you pull out a drain plug your hand is momentarily in the way of the oil flow. And anyone who's changed a Subaru's oil will tell you that when you pull that plug, the oil comes out like a hose and even quick fingers will get splashed with oil. Using the valve, the smaller aperture slows the dpeed of the draining oil, and the level is on the side of the valve, letting you keep your hand out of the way and dry. And of course, no tools or loose drain plugs to deal with.

I highly recommend picking these up for your cars if you do your own changes. For the BRZ/FR-S get the F-108. There are valves for tons of vehicles available. But as this thread was started by a vendor, I won't post direct links.
Thanks a lot for the info! Yeah... I've seen quite a few videos of operation and cutaway models. Now I wonder why not many people use it, it makes oil changes so much simpler and more convenient. The skid pan part about the nipple is a really good suggestion.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:46 AM   #25
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I change my oil at 50 miles and again at 2000 for any new car. At the initial 50 change, I normally find a bunch of shavings. At 2000, not too many. Those initial intervals aren't normally included in any kind of maintenance deal.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:58 AM   #26
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I change my oil at 50 miles and again at 2000 for any new car. At the initial 50 change, I normally find a bunch of shavings. At 2000, not too many. Those initial intervals aren't normally included in any kind of maintenance deal.

Let us know if you find/found metal shavings at 50 and/or at 2000 on this car. Just curious.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:25 PM   #27
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anybody found the drain plug to be extremely tight? I think I might have worn the edges on mine trying to loosen it. I stopped and hoped I didn't do too much damage. I'll bring it to a mechanic tomorrow and hope they can open it. Can they replace the bolt/plug with a new one?
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:14 PM   #28
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K&N PS-1004 or HP-1004? What's the diff?
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