reverse light won't work

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

I had to replace the reverse lamp switch on mine a couple years ago.

It's like $25? for an OEM one.

Not super fun to get to but not terribly difficult to replace.

Ya might wanna to give him a hint or two, starting with where the switch is located -


humfrz

[e1_griego]

Well if he was troubleshooting the wiring it should be obvious...

It's on the transmission. The switch itself has a pigtail that runs up the engine bay, where it plugs in.

The grey plug is for the reverse light -- just follow it back to where it threads into transmission.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by bobbinator

I checked the fuse, bulb and switch wire and ground looks ok. I am guessing dealer will charge me a lot for this fix? I might have to hold a flash light when I back up

sometimes a visual inspection isn't enough. check the fuse and bulbs with an ohm meter.

also, you said that you bought it used. did you verify that the plug in the trunk is connected? it's possible the last owner had a different reverse light on it, and changed the visuals, without doing all the hard work of re-running the harness.

[nextcar]

So how exactly did you check all the wiring?

Did you use a multi-meter? (probably not or you would know the exact problem...)

Did you pull up the carpet and visually inspect? (probably not, it is a hassle)

Did you know that lots of folks tap into the backup light wire for an add on backup camera? Since you are not the original owner you really cannot know what has been done over the years...

Like already said: get a multi-meter and trace it down...

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by nextcar

Like already said: get a multi-meter and trace it down...

and also like already said, if you are either not so mechanically inclined, or have time constraints, many locations will be willing to do the work for you for monetary compensation.

[Impureclient]

[ActionMaxon]

It's basically all been said already, but here's another version.

Perform visual inspection. Verify connectors fully seated and not corroded. Throw new bulbs in. They may look ok but still be bad. Check fuse. Swap with spare fuse of same amperage rating to know for sure it's good. Fuses don't always open completely. A handful of times I've found a fuse partially open, it looked ok but was only allowing 3-4 volts through. With key on, engine off test for voltage with a test light at the vehicle harness side of reverse switch connector.

If you have battery voltage the problem is down stream of that point. Using a paper clip you can bridge the two terminals of the reverse switch. Don't let the paper clip touch any metal parts. If you have reverse lights doing this test, it's the switch. If not it's downstream of the switch.

Using jumper leads and a DVOM test for resistance from power side of reverse lamp connector and power out side of switch connector (vehicle harness side). If it's less than half an ohm that wiring is good. Test for ground at ground side of reverse lamp socket connector. If it's less than half an ohm, suspect failed reverse lamp.

That's all I got. Hope it makes sense. Don't do anything you're not comfortable with. There's nohying wrong with paying someone to fix your car. Better that than mess it up worse.

[bobbinator]

Originally Posted by ActionMaxon

It's basically all been said already, but here's another version.

Perform visual inspection. Verify connectors fully seated and not corroded. Throw new bulbs in. They may look ok but still be bad. Check fuse. Swap with spare fuse of same amperage rating to know for sure it's good. Fuses don't always open completely. A handful of times I've found a fuse partially open, it looked ok but was only allowing 3-4 volts through. With key on, engine off test for voltage with a test light at the vehicle harness side of reverse switch connector.

If you have battery voltage the problem is down stream of that point. Using a paper clip you can bridge the two terminals of the reverse switch. Don't let the paper clip touch any metal parts. If you have reverse lights doing this test, it's the switch. If not it's downstream of the switch.

Using jumper leads and a DVOM test for resistance from power side of reverse lamp connector and power out side of switch connector (vehicle harness side). If it's less than half an ohm that wiring is good. Test for ground at ground side of reverse lamp socket connector. If it's less than half an ohm, suspect failed reverse lamp.

That's all I got. Hope it makes sense. Don't do anything you're not comfortable with. There's nohying wrong with paying someone to fix your car. Better that than mess it up worse.

yeah.. i changed out the fuse with new one and didn't work. that is the most I will do since I do not have good mechanical knowledge. And based on what everyone posted, it sounds like it's more complicated than I thought so I will just have it checked by either dealer or my mechanic. Thank you everyone for the posts.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by bobbinator

yeah.. i changed out the fuse with new one and didn't work. that is the most I will do since I do not have good mechanical knowledge. And based on what everyone posted, it sounds like it's more complicated than I thought so I will just have it checked by either dealer or my mechanic. Thank you everyone for the posts.

Good plan -


humfrz

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Well if he was troubleshooting the wiring it should be obvious...

It's on the transmission. The switch itself has a pigtail that runs up the engine bay, where it plugs in.

The grey plug is for the reverse light -- just follow it back to where it threads into transmission.

This is probably your answer OP.

In which case you’ll need to buy this pigtail:



Purchase RB26 wheel speed sensor here:
https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rbspseco1.html

You mentioned you bought the car used. It’s probably not on its original clutch right? If the mechanic doesn’t disconnect this cable then it can become damaged.

Here’s what mine looked like after a clutch install by someone not used to the 86 platform vs the above brand new rb26 pigtail.



What my fix looks like.



After doing this my reverse lights, cluster R light, and backup Cam fired up all as they should.

Hope this helps.

[e1_griego]

I wasn't implying the plug was cut, it's just the picture I found.

My car had mouse damage which had been fixed, but I bought the W-S connector and wired that in.

Posted about it in another thread a couple years ago.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

I wasn't implying the plug was cut, it's just the picture I found.

My car had mouse damage which had been fixed, but I bought the W-S connector and wired that in.

Posted about it in another thread a couple years ago.

My wires weren’t damaged at all, the connector was smooshed somehow.

Any kind of damage can render this exposed connector inoperable.

[gravitylover]

If the tranny had been pulled to put a new clutch in or something maybe the plug wasn't plugged back in. I'm pretty sure that's why mine isn't working but I don't feel like dealing with putting it up on stands and such then crawling under there to figure it out. I've changed the fuse and both bulbs and done a cursory look through at everything else that I can see easily and all looks well. What clued me in is a random knock coming from almost directly underneath me that sounds like plastic banging on the underside of the car when I'm on the highway and the gear indicator on the dash doesn't register R when I'm in reverse.

[fasqwer]

If we're talking about lighting here, I want to ask: What light bulbs would you advise buying in the living room? My goal is to create an atmospheric and pleasant light.