Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Jac

Interesting, i wonder what causes the difference, take a look at my WOT pull:
http://datazap.me/u/jac/brz-oft-phan...om=11918-11980

I think that looks spot on. Looks just like mine. I am going to grab logs from mine tomorrow.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[fenton]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

@ Robftss
I can`t be the only one who blinked and missed something.
Can you please summarize the differences between the three levels of dump packs?

The dump pack and half just adds two more batteries that are half the size of the original dump pack. It increases the total dump pack capacity by 50%. It allows the voltage to remain higher under load and as a result will get you between 7 to 10hp additional once conditioned(more psi). This particular option does not require the relocation of the starter battery. Rob will be selling a conversion kit that will allow you to connect the two smaller dump pack batteries to your existing dump pack batteries. For anyone that has already installed the kit this will be a very easy upgrade. The batteries as before will be purchased separately(21$ a piece~).

The next step is to go up to dual dump packs. This option will provide you with 100% more capacity but it does require relocation of the starter battery to the trunk. This is a fairly involved process, however if you know what you are doing isnt to big of a job. That being said, this option will not be for everyone.

Shiv made 217hp/195tq with dual dumps and the TQ250. The great thing about the 1.5 dump pack is it can nearly make the same peak gains as the dual however it will not be able to sustain those gains for as long.

[shif7i7down]

Originally Posted by fenton

I think that looks spot on. Looks just like mine. I am going to grab logs from mine tomorrow.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

if you don't mind me asking , which tune are you guys running? OFT?
anywho, I've said it before but I'll say it again.. it seems like the tune for the ESC is running a bit on the leaner side of the spectrum, with that said.. i really don't see any need to be alarm, it's not like it's overly lean.<-possibly due to different mods compared to what shiv had

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by fenton

The dump pack and half just adds two more batteries that are half the size of the original dump pack. It increases the total dump pack capacity by 50%. It allows the voltage to remain higher under load and as a result will get you between 7 to 10hp additional once conditioned(more psi). This particular option does not require the relocation of the starter battery. Rob will be selling a conversion kit that will allow you to connect the two smaller dump pack batteries to your existing dump pack batteries. For anyone that has already installed the kit this will be a very easy upgrade. The batteries as before will be purchased separately(21$ a piece~).

The next step is to go up to dual dump packs. This option will provide you with 100% more capacity but it does require relocation of the starter battery to the trunk. This is a fairly involved process, however if you know what you are doing isnt to big of a job. That being said, this option will not be for everyone.

Shiv made 217hp/195tq with dual dumps and the TQ250. The great thing about the 1.5 dump pack is it can nearly make the same peak gains as the dual however it will not be able to sustain those gains for as long.

Dual dump for me and...is there a quad recharge kit yet?

[Target70]

Originally Posted by Boxer486

I would add a vent for the stock battery too, but the Hindenburg was torched due to flammable paint on the skin that ignited from static electricity.

Replacing the stock starter battery is one of the easiest weight reductions you can do in any car. Well worth the price.

the hindenburg was designed to be airtight too, the trunk notsomuch, but noted.

I can agree with the weight reduction, but I'm cheap. and a battery is a consumable. It will wear out eventually, maybe in only 2 or 3 more years, and when it does I can upgrade without spending much more then just replacing the factory one... + I don't track it, and I still have factory tires so I doubt I'll notice the difference anyway. I guess worst case I will just wrap the battery in some 6mil plastic and tape a vent tube in it.

[mid_life_crisis]

Has anyone done a comparison test with the alternator engaged/disengaged with the electrocharger running? I'm beginning to wonder if the whole thing about parasitic alternator losses is being overblown. It would be interesting to see what the system would do with a high output alternator running full time. These are outtakes from a blog I found. There was a lot of other stuff of no interest to us so I am quoting only what we need.

"I had a 350/350HP that was sitting just ready to be broken in and tuned on the dyno (it pays to have drag racing buddies with dynos...a local pro-stocker to boot) ....and the owner said that I could borrow it for a week or so.....just stay out of his way in the shop (they know me too well there...dang!)."
"let's move on to the alternator test. I simulated a test with a Summit one-wire, 100 ampere alternator and tested it at several RPMS. I loaded the alternator down with what I thought a fair representation of typical application of 65 DC amperes output at 13.65VDC. At 4500RPMs the alternator averaged over the 4 tests a measily 1.28 hp loss. It was really consistent with the high being 1.29 and the low 1.26 over the testing pulls."

So I have to wonder if the power gain from the amperage wouldn't overmatch the losses.

[Gary in NJ]

The subject of parasite loss has been debated some where deep in this thread. Keep in mind, while at WOT, the alternator (and the a/c) is switched off. So there isn't any loss while the ESC is engaged.

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

The subject of parasite loss has been debated some where deep in this thread. Keep in mind, while at WOT, the alternator (and the a/c) is switched off. So there isn't any loss while the ESC is engaged.

I knew that the a/c is shut off during acceleration, but I never heard of the alternator being disabled. I've been aware that the phantom system does not charge the batteries while engaged, but didn't know the car has circuitry to defeat the alternator. Learn something new every day.

[Luckrider]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

I knew that the a/c is shut off during acceleration, but I never heard of the alternator being disabled. I've been aware that the phantom system does not charge the batteries while engaged, but didn't know the car has circuitry to defeat the alternator. Learn something new every day.

Manufacturers are implementing any little extra fuel saving option they have and remove engine load from in use and running that engine drain in a no load situation is beneficial.

[stevo585]

How much battery capacity is needed to get the absolute most boost/highest motor rpm? Does anyone even know. I mean would 6 batteries be even better than 4? Where does it stop is there a certain amp-hour capacity. There should be a max out level.

I of course mean money is no option.

[Luckrider]

Originally Posted by stevo585

How much battery capacity is needed to get the absolute most boost/highest motor rpm? Does anyone even know. I mean would 6 batteries be even better than 4? Where does it stop is there a certain amp-hour capacity. There should be a max out level.

I of course mean money is no option.

I am sure the system is getting close to the max boost limit at the current voltage. That really depends on what capacity the motor is being worked right now and how much power the motor is capable of drawing. Some friends and I have done motor swaps with battery changes in Nerf blasters for a college game and we have hit the max draw of the with the batteries we use. This means the batteries last a decent amount longer, but we can only make more power by increasing the voltage, not the amperage.

[robwbright]

Reminder of an amusing statement from early on in this project.

Originally Posted by FT_Monk

This set up will work... for close to half a second, maybe less. Then the batteries are run down and the alternator is full fielded (become super heavy to turn). It is pay back time for the engine to give back all the power made half a second earlier. You can keep the throttle buried to avoid using engine power to charge the batteries, but 1 PSI will not do much and even that will soon drains the batteries. And please give me a break for saying this is equivalent to a NOS shot. It is no where near a 50 hp shot.
For the cost of this set up, you sure won't get much hp for any period of time.

[Gary in NJ]

Now that is funny to read. A lot of hate not too long ago.

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Now that is funny to read. A lot of hate not too long ago.

Yea, but I'll admit that I'm a late comer to the thread, and I was skeptical until I read about 10 pages...

That said, I've asked Rob to put me on the list for the kit. I want the 1.5 pack for extra power and the convenience of keeping it all under the hood. My sub is already taking up enough of my trunk. LOL.

My father in law is an excellent mechanic and shifter kart racer and was recommending a safe 50 hp NOS setup as an alternative to doing a turbo/SC - because it's cheaper and more easily changed back to stock. Unfortunately, it is a 4th degree misdemeanor to have an open NOS bottle in a car in Ohio... so that went out the window.

When I showed him this thread, I was pleasantly surprised to find that he approved and considered this a reasonable equivalent substitute for the NOS system.