Track Only?

[Ryephile]

I definitely recommend upping the ante with the coilovers. The JIC's aren't very good. If you really want to knock it out [wallet too] JRZ or Moton are the uber brands. With any luck Nitron will bring an offering to the FR-S/BRZ, but we'll have to wait and see; they don't rush to market usually. KW will be the quickest to market and they're great for the money.

[Tainen]

Originally Posted by FRSpdDmn

Dumb question.... But if it's primary use is for autox/track, why not save money and get the (potentially slightly-better-performing) FR-S? With less options, the FR-S will be slightly lighter and the suspension is tuned slightly more aggressively.

I sort of want it to be a bit of a show car, too. with low miles and lots of options, it wont be hard to keep it in pretty darn good condition. I'll put clear coat bra on it the day I buy it, and keep it in the garage 100% of the time. Not that I expect it to win any shows, I just want to have some pride in my weekend car, keep the dents and dings out of it, and keep it looking good. I wanted that for my WRX, but... since it had some years of daily driver use on it, the door dings and miles were a little too high for me to have too much pride in what I've done with it (bugeye with around 8k in mods, 126k on the odo, and countless door dings )

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by Capt Canuck

Lazy, lazy... you just copy/pasted that from the PH thread you posted on

I refute your statement.

on this forum i said:
Remove rear seats and belts
Remove carpet
Performance Friction 2 piece rotors at the front (same diameter as standard) + DS2500 pads
Braille battery
Cobra Misano seat (I have a full bucket in my existing car; awesome to drive in but caused rego hassle)
Remove sound system if this is not a delete option here.
Enkei RPF1 wheel for hillclimbs and motorkhanas.


On the piston heads forum i said:
Performance Friction 2 piece discs at the front. Same as Sti discs so readily available.Same diameter as standard. (I like braking more than accelerating)
DS2500 pads
Braille battery
Cobra Misano seat for the driver. (I have a full bucket in my present car. Caused rego and seat belt issues.)
Enkei RPF1 wheels for hill climbs and motorkhanas.
Remove the sound system if it's not available as a delete option.
Remove the carpet,rear seats and belts.

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing...995&mid=306140

There was no copy & pasting. I have the same items in a different order on a notepad in my phone as well.

Of course if these are the things I am going to do the they will appear in a list in one form or another. The fact that they are similar is unavoidable.

[pithy_logorrhea]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

IMO, talk to Racecomp Engineering here on the forum. They seem very knowledgeable with suspension setups and are looking into some high-end quality solutions for the FR-S.

for RCE. I have their Tarmac 2 coilovers. Great product and a great company!

[kanundrum]

Getting in touch with RCE would be great it sucks they are not local for me.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Remove rear seats and belts
Remove carpet
Performance Friction 2 piece rotors at the front (same diameter as standard) + DS2500 pads
Braille battery
Cobra Misano seat (I have a full bucket in my existing car; awesome to drive in but caused rego hassle)
Remove sound system if this is not a delete option here.
Enkei RPF1 wheel for hillclimbs and motorkhanas.

I would not recommend the Ferodo 2500 pads for track-only work. They're a nice dual-purpose fast street/track touring pad, but they're not in the same league as PF01, Carbotech XP12, Wilwood A, Raybestos ST-43, CL RC6, and other legit track-specific pads.

I would also not recommend any recliner seat for a track-specific build. Ideally, an FIA approved seat that correctly fits the drivers' physique, has lateral head support, of course proper 6-point pass-through holes, bolted directly to the chassis and/or roll cage. Something like a Sparco Pro-ADV.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by LSxJunkie

Why would you buy a new car for that? Part of what you're paying for with a new car is the warranty. See below.



This. My personal choice would be a high mile 18-19k C5Z. Take that, cage it, toss whatever suspension your sanctioning body allows under the car, and spend the rest on your consumables.

I agree with everything LSX said, except I'm not even sure I'd spend that much. I have a hard time justifying pushing 20-30k off a cliff, I'd rather push a 3-5k car with 5-10k in parts off a cliff.

[kanundrum]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I agree with everything LSX said, except I'm not even sure I'd spend that much. I have a hard time justifying pushing 20-30k off a cliff, I'd rather push a 3-5k car with 5-10k in parts off a cliff.

Very True but meh what evs. Only Live once.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by kanundrum

Very True but meh what evs. Only Live once.

I have no problem with you doing it. I just couldn't justify it

I agree with what Rye has said too, except only attach a harness to a rollbar or cage please. Adding safety stuff to make you less safe has never computed for me

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I agree with what Rye has said too, except only attach a harness to a rollbar or cage please. Adding safety stuff to make you less safe has never computed for me

The only rational way to attach harnesses to the chassis would be factory seat-belt hard-points [i.e. lap belt points, which have to be strong per NHTSA crash standards]. I'm not sure how that jives with SCCA/NASA/etc. That means at a minimum the shoulder and sub belts must be tied directly to the roll cage.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

The only rational way to attach harnesses to the chassis would be factory seat-belt hard-points [i.e. lap belt points, which have to be strong per NHTSA crash standards]. I'm not sure how that jives with SCCA/NASA/etc. That means at a minimum the shoulder and sub belts must be tied directly to the roll cage.

Having a harness without roll over protection means your head becomes the rollover protection, which makes it a sure bet that your neck will snap...

So my point was use a 5/6 point harness ONLY with a rollbar or rollcage

TT allows harnesses without rollover protection but I would never touch that setup. We don't allow it in DEs even.

[Ryephile]

I totally agree with your point!

As I see it:
*completely stock: Airbags, 3-points
*completely race: Roll-cage, race seats, 6-point harnesses, HANS, [window nets, arm tethers]

[Homemade WRX]

Originally Posted by kanundrum

Getting in touch with RCE would be great it sucks they are not local for me.

Um, we're all in MD...but JIC isn't local either and they make crap.

EDIT: RaceComp is 10.8 miles from 'Laurel, MD' via google maps

I'd go with at least RCE Tarmacs. Personally I'd call up Turn In Concepts for AST, I'd call Brian at JRZ or I'd call up Anze.

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Well, props to kanundrum for being a trailblazer, that's for sure! If he's got the cash and enthusiasm, let's try to help him on the right path.

Here are the basics for your track toy:
*Gutted interior, SCCA-spec roll cage [or similar], fire suppression system
*proper race seats, 6-point harnesses, HANS, window nets, arm restraints
*Call Goodridge and get stainless brake lines made
*Call Carbotech and get brake pads made
*Swap all the car fluids with Motul, Redline, or equivalent
*Be ready to replace all the rubber suspension and power train mounts with solid, poly, or teflon-lined spherical
*Call Racecomp Engineering and have custom KW Clubsport coil overs made
*Fit strong wheels and Hoosier A6/R6, quality wheel studs

At this point, you'll be able to start developing the car.
FUN!

^^^pretty much what he said BUT Carbotech already makes the pads and DBA mades the upgraded floating rotors for the fronts

As for you wanting a turbo setup, I'd wait and see what class you want to run in, also the the pros and cons of a turbo kit on the motor, as it might not be something you want to dive into on your track toy...that you plan to drive to the track.

Even I, the massive turbo/FI nut, plan on doing an NA build for this platform first, while I work out EM and fueling options in the market. Woot for being a beta tester

[kanundrum]

Don't really plan on classes for the most part when it comes to SCCA. As stated before we have our local Autox club I usually roll with. Just have to consider what events Ill go to at summit point. When it came to RCE I was talking about actual setup and not just ordering parts.