STX setup sharing thread (2019)

[steverife]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

I'm pretty much full lemming here.

2016 Scion FRS:

Suspension:
MCS 2W Remotes - Custom Revalve & Piston
400/350 Rates
Raceseng Camber Plates/Raceseng 1" Top Hats in Rear
Front: -4.2* Camber, 0 Toe
Rear: -2.5* Camber, 1/16" Total In
Ride Height - Front Wheels 25" from floor to center of fender above wheel. Rear set for 1/8" Rake
Perrin 22m Front bar set on Soft/McMaster Carr Custom Endlinks (Soon to be Karwan FSB)
Mann Rear Bar set of Stiff (I adjust all the time though). RacerX Endlinks
RacerX LCA
Whiteline Subframe Insert Bushings

Engine:
aFe Momentum Intake
JDL 4-2-1 Header
JDL Ultra Quiet FP/OP Combo w/Cat
Perrin 2.5" Exhaust
MotoEast/XeroLimit Custom Dyno Tune

Wheels/Tires/Misc
AP Racing BBK w/Ferodo DS2500s
RPF1s 17x9 +35 with 245/40/17 RivalS 1.5s
Antigravity 680CA Battery w/PFTuning Tray

IMO, car doesn't need a diff. Lugod is not stupid, he knows how to setup cars and clearly has mastered a setup around an OSG...however don't think you're going to instantly find seconds with going to an OSG. I could be wrong, but meh.

Played around with spring rates. Ended up softer in the rear on purpose because I like running more shock when possible. Revalve for this season should help running less shock when needed for wet or asphalt conditions. Car is pretty much money on concrete IMO.

Changed around alignment settings this year. Use to run -3.5* Up front and -1/16" out. So we'll see what does that. I think I was sacrificing some front grip.

Rake from front to rear?

End links look pretty simple compared to other cars that I've messed with. Internally threaded ball joint linkage - threaded rod - internally threaded ball joint linkage? Or is there more to it?

[e1_griego]

I don't think the diff is necessary at all, I just happened to have some dollars burning a hole in my pocket, and I have an OSG in my s13 which I love (especially after swapping from torsen > OSG).

I have taken runs in other folks' cars and I like the torsen just fine.

[tony_r]

Originally Posted by M0nk3y

Where is the rear illegal CR Wing?

Whoops wait wrong car...

That wing makes the car sooo fast. Too much downforce at 60mph.
Seriously though that Ricky guy seems like a rules twat. Also mad that he can't win in an S2000

IMO, car doesn't need a diff. Lugod is not stupid, he knows how to setup cars and clearly has mastered a setup around an OSG...however don't think you're going to instantly find seconds with going to an OSG. I could be wrong, but meh.

Yeah it's not going to be insert OSG = instant time. It takes wrapping your setup around it to take advantage of what it brings to the table.

I don't have any issue with the Torsen, it works fine and will certainly get you to a win. Some prefer the looser entry and exit of the car, and that suits a certain driving style too.

With an OSG I immediately noticed how stable the car was on entry and had to change how I approached corners. On exit, the lockup is faster and feels like the car thrusts forward rather than initiating a slide first. It also feels like the Torsen has to be "spooled" mid corner with maintenance throttle.

Big front bar with their setup?

Perrin 22mm like mine.

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by steverife

Rake from front to rear?

End links look pretty simple compared to other cars that I've messed with. Internally threaded ball joint linkage - threaded rod - internally threaded ball joint linkage? Or is there more to it?

Rake rear to front. Positive rake.

Endlinks are easy. With MCS though you create inner clearance issues with the fender well where OTS endlinks are too big and like rub the inner fender.

[smg1138]

Looks like a lot of you guys are using 4-2-1 EL headers. I'm running a JDL UEL right now but have seriously thought about switching. Would it be worth the extra cost and effort?

[Lincoln Logs]

Originally Posted by smg1138

Looks like a lot of you guys are using 4-2-1 EL headers. I'm running a JDL UEL right now but have seriously thought about switching. Would it be worth the extra cost and effort?

I'd just keep it. The amount of time and money spent on a new header would be better spent at events driving.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by steverife

Big front bar

Again going off memory here but I think it's a 22mm solid Perrin bar.

Big, but not crazy, there are bigger and I think the 22mm white line is stiffer based on the charts and word of mouth, maybe too stiff, 22mm Megan bar might be pretty close to the right thing as well with a 5-6k spring up front and stiffer rear spring.

I've got a 20mm white line, seems to work good on warm concrete at full stiff but I got front end chatter at the last cool damp event and with hindsight would have tried softening it. I've got a 6k spring up front and was running the same bar with a 325# spring, a little more bar than what I've got would probably help but right now I don't think anything needs to run some 25+ mm monstrosity. Unless you've got less spring than that.

[Breadman]

im not competitive but posting anyway:


2017 brz PP


17x9 6UL with 255/40/17 conti ECS
Ace350
K&N filter
Perrin inlet tube
CSG FLA with 1" drop
winmax w2
5lb shorai battery

alignment is

-2.6 front with 1/8" toe out
-2.1 back with 1/8" toe in


I daily it so maybe if i gitgud ill put more into it

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by smg1138

Looks like a lot of you guys are using 4-2-1 EL headers. I'm running a JDL UEL right now but have seriously thought about switching. Would it be worth the extra cost and effort?

I can only offer my experience.

Came from a Tomei UEL. No back to back dyno (did dyno tuning at ME and remotely tuned for the new headed based off the old tune).

The 4-2-1 EL still has a very good bump mid-RPM similar to UEL. IMO, it actually pulls harder at the 4k range. At top end, it doesn't choke out of air. It can still flow really well and runs hard to redline. Looking at virtual dyno, it still drops at ~6850 or so, but levels out quickly and pulls hard to redline.

My dyno on the UEL, drop off starts at 6500 and goes off a cliff basically. So on the EL we were able to get a bump in torque at virtually HP max and mimic a UEL curve.

The EL torque shelf is virtually flat, unlike the UEL where torque is low until the 4500 mark where it bumps and then drops off slightly. I have same torque figures (relatively) from 3800 to 6800.

With all the being said, comes Lincoln's post

Originally Posted by Lincoln Logs

I'd just keep it. The amount of time and money spent on a new header would be better spent at events driving.

Do you really want to spend $1200 for a JDL 4-2-1 EL and a Tune? Don't get me wrong, I did it...but I'm also stupid. My Tomei UEL made great power - but I'll probably be making more with this header.

With that being said, not like the header I was previously on preventing me from being capable of winning...

[strat61caster]

+1 if you don't already have ecutek going to the long tube header and custom tune is a $2k investment or more, I know I'd get a helluva lot of seat time and two sets of tires for that money, way more valuable for me than a few ponies. A few torques isn't going to make up for my dumb mistakes that are currently keeping me more than a second out from the fast guys.

JDL or Ace, maybe an old nameless if you can find it, the tomei I have is a 4-2-1 but it's a short tube header and doesn't have the same gains down low according to the box that the long tube headers have.

[dutchman1]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

+1 if you don't already have ecutek going to the long tube header and custom tune is a $2k investment or more, I know I'd get a helluva lot of seat time and two sets of tires for that money, way more valuable for me than a few ponies. A few torques isn't going to make up for my dumb mistakes that are currently keeping me more than a second out from the fast guys.

JDL or Ace, maybe an old nameless if you can find it, the tomei I have is a 4-2-1 but it's a short tube header and doesn't have the same gains down low according to the box that the long tube headers have.

Plus if you're looking to upgrade eventually but aren't in any kind of hurry, just keep an eye on the local used market for a while. Eventually you may see an offer you can't refuse. I picked up PTuning EL for 550 that way.

[bslate3]

Okay I’ll play along and share.

2015 BRZ

Suspension:
RCE T2’s with 400f/450r with front RCE camber plates and Mooresport rear upper mounts.
Whiteline 20mm front sway bar and endlinks with bar set to stiff. Mann Engineering rear bar with Racer X endlinks. Verus rear lower control arms with the STX legal bushings.
Current alignment is -4.1 front with 1/16 toe out and -2.7 rear with 1/16 toe in.
Ride height is 25” measured from top center of front fender to floor. Rear is 25.25”

Power mods so far:
Grimspeed intake, Tomei header and over pipe and Berk muffler delete. (Yes it drones on the highway lol) and a Kartboy crank pulley. Also Openflash tune.

Misc. mods:
Braille battery, AP Racing sprint front brake kit with Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear.

Wheels/tires:
Enkei RPF1 17x9 +45 (fronts have 10mm spacers to clear AP Racing brakes)
245/40 Rival S 1.5 currently. Used to run 255/40 RE71’s.

[H1C]

Thank you to everyone for sharing your setups -- it's interesting to see the variation.

Here's mine; I don't go to National events and probably won't ever be able to. But my car, driven by my friend who's the best driver I've ever known, won our region's SCCA championship last year in it. He raw-timed the current/multiple Dixie Tour STU winner, and was several seconds ahead of the current/multiple Dixie Tour STX winner, both of whom are great guys and better drivers than me.

Engine
K&N filter stock airbox
Tomei EL header and over pipe (OP makes a noticeable difference in how freely the engine revs. Also seems to bog less at low rpm in 2nd. Will have to go back to the dyno to see what difference it made.)
Stock front pipe (Motiv HFC FP might go back on if I can get a quieter exhaust)
Ark Design dual canister exhaust.
Wayneroms v146.3 default version, rich +2% file

Suspension/chassis
MCS 1WNR, 11/18 clicks F, 10/18 clicks R
Eibach springs 6" 500 lb/in F, 7" 450 lb/in R, no helper springs
Ground Control camber plates, rear top mounts, F strut brace
Cusco R shock tower brace
Whiteline RLCA with inner bushings set to raise roll center
Whiteline subframe bushing inserts
Perrin 22 mm front swaybar on stiff, Racer X endlinks
Stock rear swaybar
Perrin steering rack lock-downs (not legal for National events I don't think, but holds alignments better since I installed them. The front toe used to change after every event before getting these.)
Tirerack FF10 17x9 45 et
RE-71R 245/40
Ferodo DS2500 pads, Ate brake fluid
Racer X master cylinder brace

Alignment
3.5 - 3.6 camber F (I get most of my camber via the slotted strut, probably less than a degree from the plates)
OEM caster 5.7 - 5.8
0 toe or as close to it the tech can hit
2.8 - 2.9 camber R
0.1 deg toe-in per side or as close to middle of the factory range the tech can hit

Ride height
Two finger gap in R, maybe a little more than that in F
As close to 0 rake as I could attain in my garage with its lumpy floor
Front spring perch height set equal L to R (basically as low as they could go while keeping the springs captive at full droop)
RR spring perch 2 mm lower than LR
Corner balance was acceptable to me in this configuration

Interior/Misc
SRP accelerator pedal
Schroth Rallye 3 harness
OEM length ARP studs, hardened steel lugs (my favorite mods after snapping 8 OEM studs with OEM lugs frozen on them)
Bosch size 51 AGM battery, JDM smaller tray and tie-down

[smg1138]

@H1C How much caster can you get with the GC camber plates?