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Old 07-27-2018, 02:12 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepless View Post
FYI you can't buy a NEW FA20.

I blew two motors (rods) last year at 300-320WHP and ended up having to buy two used motors and it was a pain to find one in good enough condition.

Recommend you stick with 280WHP max. If you are not interested in tracking the car then go with the Edlebrock SC if you want it to feel the same as stock in terms of throttle response. Or a turbo kit in the same power range.
No doubt you could buy one through the dealer
but...


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Old 07-27-2018, 04:00 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
No doubt you could buy one through the dealer
but...
I think he meant a crate motor or something that is mostly assembled. You can buy a block or all the parts, I'm 99.99% sure.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:12 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepless View Post
FYI you can't buy a NEW FA20.

I blew two motors (rods) last year at 300-320WHP and ended up having to buy two used motors and it was a pain to find one in good enough condition.

Recommend you stick with 280WHP max. If you are not interested in tracking the car then go with the Edlebrock SC if you want it to feel the same as stock in terms of throttle response. Or a turbo kit in the same power range.
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Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
No doubt you could buy one through the dealer
but...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
I think he meant a crate motor or something that is mostly assembled. You can buy a block or all the parts, I'm 99.99% sure.
Definitely can buy a block...


Subaru sells factory long blocks and short blocks its just don't expect to get them fully dressed. I think you'd be better spent to get a built block anyway from the aftermarket like map performance or something
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:34 PM   #74
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I bought a brand new block from Outfront Motorsports with a closed deck. Didn't even have a serial number stamped on it. I asked my engine builder to just stamp on the same number as my old block.

And you definitely don't want OEM rods if you are going to the effort/expense of opening a case.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:47 PM   #75
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I think you'd be better spent to get a built block anyway from the aftermarket like map performance or something
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Originally Posted by Hags86 View Post
I bought a brand new block from Outfront Motorsports with a closed deck. Didn't even have a serial number stamped on it. I asked my engine builder to just stamp on the same number as my old block.

And you definitely don't want OEM rods if you are going to the effort/expense of opening a case.
^This...For OEM prices, I'm sure a built block could be purchased.
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:52 PM   #76
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My plan is to buy a Porsche 911 Carrera 4s by the time I'm 27-30. Hmm, you're right about me becoming a better driver. My car is definitely not track ready.. I heard you can track other vehicles you can rent for the day.. Any recommendations?
Well you can pay to drive someone else's car or you can learn to get better in your own car with driving skills you can use every day. I know where I spent my money.

If you really want to drive someone elses car, check out the local tracks, they usually have programs to drive other cars or can direct you to the people locally who do that.

That said, a 100% stock 86/FRS/BRZ IS track ready. At least it will be fine for your first track day or so when you're still slow and lack the skill and confidence to really attack. After that, there are some changes you should make as you grow as a driver. After the first event or two are out of the way, you should upgrade brake pads and fluid and adding an oil cooler is also a good idea. After that, add parts as you find weaknesses to compensate for or strengths to build upon.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:50 PM   #77
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Well you can pay to drive someone else's car or you can learn to get better in your own car with driving skills you can use every day. I know where I spent my money.

If you really want to drive someone elses car, check out the local tracks, they usually have programs to drive other cars or can direct you to the people locally who do that.

That said, a 100% stock 86/FRS/BRZ IS track ready. At least it will be fine for your first track day or so when you're still slow and lack the skill and confidence to really attack. After that, there are some changes you should make as you grow as a driver. After the first event or two are out of the way, you should upgrade brake pads and fluid and adding an oil cooler is also a good idea. After that, add parts as you find weaknesses to compensate for or strengths to build upon.
Yep. Oil cooler, brake pads (maybe a front brake kit) some semi-slicks and suspension. I had heaps of track time in that configuration, had lots of fun and really improved as a driver. Now I'm getting very consistent laps times that are close to pro drivers - that's when the additional power went in. On short, complex tracks a NA 86 with no power mods (just tyres and suspension) is as fast as any turbo or big displacement car.
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Old 07-30-2018, 01:49 PM   #78
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Chiming in with my experience.

I have a stock motor.

I'm running the Avo Turbo Kit, with flex fuel.
As I'm from Canada, Vancouver region, we have crappy "94" Octane gas which is worse than the 92 Octane from Seattle.

Some numbers in horsepower (dynojet, at the wheel, Drift-Office)
Chevron 94 was around 220-230whp IIRC
US Chevron 92 (from what I've seen) can reach around 270-290whp

When I run flex-fuel at 12-13PSI of boost, I hit 351WHP.

I've been running this for two years now as a daily driver.
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:48 AM   #79
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Well...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hags86 View Post
I'm Australian based and proudly have a bunch of Australian designed and build aftermarket bits:
- I have a water to air intercooled turbo from Coyoda. Based on a GTX2863 turbo, bottom mount on cast iron headers
- MoTec ECU and Dash
- Holinger sequential dogbox
- e85 (with flex fuel)
- Bosch 1050cc port injectors
- all the supporting mods (bigger fuel pumps, clutch, oil coolers etc)

241rwkW on e85.

Just rebuilt the engine after the bent rods. Closed deck, Carillo rods and pistons, MLS gasket, studs, port and polish etc. Should get it back tomorrow with the new engine.

The car is daily driven with some track time. Now I have the stronger engine the big turbo will be the next upgrade (at a later date)

My understanding is that the rods are the weak link and low-end torque is the killer of rods.

It all depends on your definition of reliable. Plenty of cars our there on stock internals making similar power. But you only need a handful of failures to put a big hole in 'reliable'. I'd done my research, was well informed and was very confident my power goals on the small GTX2863 were inside the curve of 'safe' on the stock internals - but I was proven wrong.
I'm not sure how much research you did. I think it's pretty obvious that it's not that the rods are necessarily weak, it's that some rods are really weak.

It's a QA issue in all likelihood. You may have a car with rods that can handle 450 plus HP and you may have one that will bend rods na on e85.

320 is not safe on pump, especially 98 Ron or Cali 91.

If you were on e85, then you were probably just one of the unlucky ones to get poor rods.

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