FRS Break-in guide

[denkigrve]

Does anyone have the break-in guide for the FRS yet?

[Exhaust]

No guide, but its been discussed here. I think the general consensus was that the car was broken in from factory. Anything else is just to make sure. Besides i dont think there would be much of a guide considering the car isnt available to everyone yet. If it'd be anywhere im sure it'd be in the manual.

[Genomaxter]

Just look up Motoman's break-in guide. Some people say follow manufacturer's guide, but I wont because its written by lawyers, not engineers. I work for an engineering firm and we re-write things all the time because it keeps us from being liable, not because its better. That what happens when the world is sue happy.

[stateless]

The BRZ manual details the recommended break-in. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4181 The FR-S will be the same.

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by Genomaxter

Just look up Motoman's break-in guide. Some people say follow manufacturer's guide, but I wont because its written by lawyers, not engineers. I work for an engineering firm and we re-write things all the time because it keeps us from being liable, not because its better. That what happens when the world is sue happy.

for the lazy people

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Jeff Lange]

Originally Posted by 2013 Scion FR-S Owner's Manual (Pub No. OM18012U, pg. 125)

• New vehicle break-in driving (the first 1000 miles [1600 km])
  The performance and long life of your vehicle are dependent on how you
  handle and care for your vehicle while it is new. Follow these instructions
  during the first 1000 miles (1600 km):
  
  
  • Do not allow the engine speed to exceed 4000 rpm except in an emergency.
  • Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time,
    either fast or slow.
  • Avoid starting suddenly and rapid acceleration, except in an emergency.
  • Avoid hard braking, except in an emergency.
    The same break-in procedures should be applied to an overhauled
    engine, newly mounted engine or when brake pads or brake linings are
    replaced with new ones.

Seems to be the same as the BRZ, as expected.

Jeff

[Subaruwrxfan]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

for the lazy people

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Very good info. I would follow this process if the BRZ came with dyno oil, but since it's coming from the factory with synthetic, I feel like all of our engines most likely won't get a proper ring seal...

[SkullWorks]

mine will get rotella or Brad Penn Dyno Oil before the first 50 miles are on it.

I may even pick it up on the trailer so I can change the oil before having to drive 10 miles stop and go street traffic back from dealer.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by Subaruwrxfan

Very good info. I would follow this process if the BRZ came with dyno oil, but since it's coming from the factory with synthetic, I feel like all of our engines most likely won't get a proper ring seal...

how do you know it comes with factory synthetic? i thought all new cars come with break-in oil to aid in breaking-in the engine.

[Subaruwrxfan]

Originally Posted by ayau

how do you know it comes with factory synthetic? i thought all new cars come with break-in oil to aid in breaking-in the engine.

We already had an 8 page discussion about break-in, I'm getting all my info from that thread. Manufacturers don't use break-in oil anymore and the FT86 comes from the factory with synthetic 0W-20 oil.

[Dizz1e]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

for the lazy people

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

"Run it hard from hour 0" is wrong - here's why

The "run it hard" opinion hit a resurgence with a website from an air cooled motorcycle mechanic. Aside from the page being focused on motorcycle engines, his hard break in technique for the street only takes the bike up to 65 mph - that's fast for a bike but not much for a car. Bikes are also thousands of pounds lighter than cars so the engine doesn't have to work very hard if you're driving "normally". Some of the misunderstanding is that one person's babying is another's beating. The advice also says that the critical window of opportunity is only 20 miles or 9 dyno runs, then it becomes 200 miles for the street - which is it? It also says that power loss from an easy break in could be up to 10% while the gain in power as a result of using his break in technique could be up 10%. Call me a skeptic - car makers have done full price + taxes buybacks when horsepower was 5% lower than advertised (RX-8) and it's well known that many engines are underrated in their actual power (335i N54).

The engine in your new car really isn't a brand new engine either - it was already tested at the factory, had its first oil change, driven on a dyno at the factory, on/off the transport, and then around the dealership. In some cases the car was driven to another dealer and test driven by other people. Some high performance cars are even driven hard on a track at the factory for quality control. If the first minutes of engine break in determine the rest of engine life and performance, you already missed it.

Engine break in goals are proper heat cycling, mating of parts, and stress reliving accomplished by incremental increases in varying rpm and load. You definitely don't want to baby the engine but you don't want to beat it hard either. The most important goals are avoiding excess engine wear, idling longer than you normally would, steady rpm, and high load on a cold engine."

Taken from: http://www.myturbodiesel.com

[Jeff Lange]

Originally Posted by ayau

how do you know it comes with factory synthetic? i thought all new cars come with break-in oil to aid in breaking-in the engine.

Most new Toyotas and Subarus come factory-filled with 0W20 Synthetic.

Jeff

[7thgear]

i love the internet, the more you read the more you want to crawl under a rock someplace and just sleep.


my strategy will be to just drive the car the way i normaly drive it around the city, and rip it open during highway merging

[SkullWorks]

so let me get this straight....gas burning motorcycle guidelines are useless as a comparison....but turbo DIESEL comparisons are valid?

I'm gonna go with....no,


Stress relieving parts is a process done in production and results in the inherant stresses developed in the part due to machining and material flow during cooling among other things, when you stress relieve a part (usually done with rapid temp extremes ie go from steam bath or boiling to submerged in LN2 or visca versa) it changes dimensions, and not a little bit...if your crank was being stress relieved it wouldn't turn in the bearings anymore.

Piston rings are heat treated to a specific temper to retain their spring characteristic, if they were being stress relieved they would lose their spring (this is why over heated engines often have no ring seal, they exceeded working temp and lose their temper)

in your referenced article the author stated that pistons aren't round and become round under operating conditions.....WTF....no pistons aren't round, intentionally they have clearance to allow them to rock and still effectively seal, but any solid object will expand at a constant rate vs temp, you can't trick the piston into growing into a perfect circle at operating temperature....

the only statement i can't argue with is that break in goal #1 is effective mating of parts, and this is why high cylinder pressure is beneficial it forces the rings against the walls while there is still enough abrasive action to make a proper seal,