Vortech Supercharging - FAQ and Notes

[marcoaferrer]

Vortech Supercharging - FAQ and Notes

Table of Contents

• Kit Revisions
• Install Instructions
• v3-H67B Compressor Map
• v3-H67B Blower Specs
• Impeller Speeds vs. Pulley Size
• V2 Upgrade Info
• Pulley/Belt Combination Chart
• Third Party Parts Suppliers / Rebuild Services
• Idler Pulley Issues/Solutions
• BPV/BOV Upgrades
• Wastegate Integration
• Possible Boost/Vacuum Leak
• Oil Cooler Fitment / Modifications (PERRIN Specific post 3
  
• Compatible EL/Longtube Headers

@Dezoris pointed out that the Vortech owners thread had gotten so long it was impossible to navigate through and find any specific info you might need. He wasnt the only one that felt so. Heres my shot at trying to compile what ever I can find that is relevant.

Ill be adding more as I filter through all the pages. Let me know if I miss something and Ill add it to this post. (This is going to be a constant work in progress) The goal is to have the important info and FAQ on the first page so people dont have to hunt it down.

Kit Revisions:

Originally Posted by Brian@Vortech

Just quickly off the top of my head, here are the changes made since SEMA 2012. Sorry that I won't be able to include precise dates on all of the upgrades. I could estimate on the ones I don't know for sure but I'd rather not in case I am incorrect.

1) SEMA 2012 - Initial release, V-3 H67BC system - 6psi Boost for 86's! Much rejoicing!

2) March/April 2013 - H67B Upgrade (9psi). All Systems (Complete Systems and Tuner Kits) automatically changed to include the higher output H67B compressor. All previously purchased system owners are offered a free compressor upgrade from the H67BC to the H67B. More boost = more fun (and more POWAAA!) There was much frivolity.

3) May/June 2013 - Wiring harness added to system at no extra charge, replaces need for manually extending wiring harness. Install becomes easier, and there was lots of high fiving.

4) June/July 2013 - In response to some issues with idler pulley and belt contact, idler pulley changed to steel idler from composite, and shorter belt now included with systems. A small amount of rejoicing (I think one or 2 people shouted "YAY!", but that's about it).

5) June/July 2013 - Discharge Tube D is replaced from a hand-welded tube to a cast tube (sometimes referred to as the notched tube). A lot of people have asked why we changed it when we did, and why the notch was added at that time. In all honesty, it takes months to get molds and tooling made, and sometimes they have to be remade and refined before they can be put into production. It took that long for it to be right. The notch is much easier to include into a casting than it would be to hand fabricate. Plus, it only really became necessary when one of our International Dealers asked for the additional clearance so that they could run a larger pulley for less boost with the H67B. Not wanting to bring back the H67BC compressor for 1 customer, a notch on the tube seemed a good compromise. Plus, it seems people appreciated the extra clearance...so general cheerfulness all around.

6) July 2013 - Heavy Duty (H/D) V-2 Engine Oil Fed System released - for those looking for a system designed for competition level racing, or those wanting to go bananas with their setups...this is your kit. Designed with the capability to be spun well beyond the limits of the V-3 unit, the maximum output of the H/D V-2 H67B has never been reached on an 86 to this day. With several people putting down numbers approaching 400WHP with the regular V-3, and with thousands of additional impeller rpm to play with on the H/D V-2...how far can the H/D V-2 unit go...? I suppose only time will tell.

August 2013 - Maxflow Race BOV Upgrade released for FR-S/BRZ systems. An optional upgrade for those that want a louder discharge sound between shifts. The traditional "Blow-Off" sound we all know and love. Some embraced it, others stayed happy with the valve they already had.

September 2013 - Maxflow Race BOV heavier spring option. The Race BOV was too loud for some, so a heavier spring was optioned to keep the volume down to a more enjoyable level.

January 2014 - What would YOU like to see either added, or optioned for the Vortech Supercharging Systems for the FR-S & BRZ?

Install Instructions:
Manufacturer installation guide
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/97.pdf

Manufacturer V2 UPGRADE installation guide
Thx to @draggin_az
FR-S Oil Feed_Drain Manual 081613.pdf

Thx to
@RallySportDirect
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39392

Thx to
@Dezoris
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40792

Thx to
@Enjuku Racing
www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30900

Partial torque specs
Thx to @Foobar

Originally Posted by Foobar

I asked Brian for the torque specs back when I did my install - this is what he shared with me:

2x 5/16-18 on top = 13-16 ft-lb
5/16 x 5 with nut = 13-16 ft-lb
3/8-16 to s/c plate =22-28 ft-lb
OEM pivot = 13-16 ft-lb
OEM long = 13-16 ft-lb

v3-H67B Compressor Map:



v3-H67B Blower Specs:

Max Speed - 52,000rpm
This number was provided by Vortech over the phone. The confusing part is that we have always been lead to believe the max impeller speed is 50,000rpm. I think i figured out what caused all the confusion. When the kit was originally released the blower it shipped with was the V3-H67BC.

Originally Posted by Brian@Vortech

The V-3 H67BC Supercharger has a maximum impeller speed of 50,000 rpm

According to Vortech support the new blower (V3-H67B) has a max impeller speed of 52,000rpm. This means that the 2.87 pulley overspins the blower by only 166rpm when the engine is at 7,400rpm.

Max Boost - 14psi

Max Flow - 750cfm

Max HP - 525HP
(Crank Horsepower)

Peak Efficiency - 71%

Impeller Speeds vs. Pulley Size:

Originally Posted by Brian@Vortech

The V-3 H67BC Supercharger has a maximum impeller speed of 50,000 rpm

We have several to choose from.

A 3.48" S/C Pulley = 43,022 @ 7,400 engine rpm
A 3.40" S/C Pulley = 44,034 @ 7,400 engine rpm
A 3.33" S/C Pulley = 44,960 @ 7,400 engine rpm
A 3.25" S/C Pulley - 46,066 @ 7,400 engine rpm
A 3.125" S/C Pulley = 47,909 @ 7,400 engine rpm
A 2.87" S/C Pulley = 52,166 @ 7,400 engine rpm, which is beyond the maximum impeller speed, and therefore we would advise against utilizing with this system.

Because we design our systems to reach a maximum boost pressure at redline, for a linear boost curve and maximum efficiency. Spinning a compressor faster just to intentionally bleed off cfm reduces the efficiency of operation, and therefore lessens the benefit of a high efficiency supercharger such as a Vortech.

You are most welcome.

Vortech Impeller RPM calculator
(Stock crank pulley diameter is 5.62, Use calculator labeled "V-2 / V-3 Calculator")
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...id=33511#rpmv2


V2 Upgrade Info:

Originally Posted by Brian@Vortech

What would you like to know? It can be purchased in a Tuner Kit if you do not already have a Vortech System, or as an upgrade for an existing V-3 compressor if someone already has our V-3 kit installed.

The H/D V-2 oil fed system is designed specifically around the idea of competition level racing, however would also apply for anyone who wants to go beyond the horsepower capability of the existing V-3 system. The H/D V-2 H67B compressor replaces the entire transmission side of the compressor, and includes heavy duty internals (bearings, seals, gears, etc.), which allows the unit to not only withstand extended, hardcore competition-level track duty, but also allows the unit to be spun well beyond the impeller speed limitations of the V-3, for a power output capability so far unseen on a supercharged FA20.

For those looking to purchase a Tuner Kit with the H/D V-2, the part number is 4TF218-124, and can be purchased directly through Vortech, or through any of our Dealers & Distributors.

For those who already have the V-3 system and want to upgrade, contact our service department, and they will fill you in on what is required and quote you pricing, and then you send in your existing unit, we upgrade it with all H/D V-2 parts, and return it to you, along with the oil feed and drain lines. Install the new parts and upgraded compressor, and off you go!

Originally Posted by Rick@Vortech

The H/D oil fed unit will still fall under CARB approval. The impeller side of the blower & supercharger pulley (the only parts of the blower CARB cares about) will be the same as a V-3 self lube. Only the oiling of the blower is changed.

Part differences between V2 & V3 Blowers:

Originally Posted by Rick@Vortech

The blower itself is a direct swap, yes. I don't know the price off the top of my head for a brand new H/D Oil Fed unit, but I'll check as soon as I'm near our system.

However, if you don't want to spend the money on buying an entirely new blower, you could always send in your blower & have it converted to a heavy-duty oil-fed unit. That conversion gets you the following:

-New Gearcase Seal
-New Impeller Seal
-New Input Seal
-New H/D Bearings (V-3 has standars bearings. V-2 H/D has heavy duty bearings that can be spun to a higher RPM)

I'll talk to the Service Department tomorrow & get a price on that service, as well.

Cost of V3 -> V2 upgrade:
Thx to: @draggin_az
$1,095 + Shipping

Manufacturer V2 UPGRADE installation guide
Thx to @draggin_az
FR-S Oil Feed_Drain Manual 081613.pdf






Pulley/Belt Combination Chart:



Goodyear Gatorback belt part numbers:
Thx to @DJCarbine

Originally Posted by DJCarbine

Found some Goodyear Gatorback belt part numbers that will work with our superchargers

4060970 replacement for K060970
4060967 replacement for K060966 (within .1")

These belts seem to do well with superchargers from what I've read on other forums

Third Party Parts Suppliers / Rebuild Services:
SuperchargerRebuild.com
SuperchargersOnline.com
JonBondPerformance.com



Idler Pulley Issues/Solutions:
Thx to @cb7tuner

Originally Posted by cb7tuner

Well after having this happen to me yesterday, I noticed another member posted today of the same issue. Maybe more will pop up soon as well...
this happened to me yesterday, belt shredded and my idler pulley on the compressor assembly looks melted in the center and off balanced seeming to be due to a bad bearing in the pulley and the lip is chewed off (4500 miles on my kit, never tracked, never abused). I contacted vortech about this today and I was told I needed to send the bad parts to them for them to be looked at and determine the cause first. I'm not going to do that since this is my daily and that would leave my car down for at least a week since I'm in Georgia. Not to mention shipping charges as well, and no guarantee that I would even be given replacement parts. When I easily fixed the problem myself for $35 in one day. The idler is a dayco 3" smooth pulley with lip part # 89003, cost me $17 and a new replacement belt. Not a big deal but definatley not something I expected from a $5k kit. Pics... And more later of the pulley after I removed it since my phones acting weird

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ovXSuQ33Ss"]FR-S BRZ Vortech Pulley and Intake Tube Problem - YouTube[/ame]



BPV/BOV Upgrades:

Using the stock A Pipe from the kit:
Thx to: @tye300
Link to write up with pictures. Comparison videos inside
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67729



Thx to @DJCarbine

Originally Posted by DJCarbine

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product...-universal-fit
You want the 25mm version.



It is a dual port, so you can retain the K&N filter on the dump port. Both ports are the same 1" as the plastic bosch unit. It simply replaces the bosch unit retaining the factory hose/K&N filter.

For those who will argue that this may suck in un-filtered air through the "horn" port, the supercharger produces more airflow than the engine can ingest even at idle. Also, this valve only fully opens to dump air out of the "noisy" horn at high intake manifold vacuum/positive pressure in the charge pipe. Otherwise it only vents to the dump port with your K&N filter.

This results in a valve that operates pretty much exactly like the included plastic bosch valve, however at moderate/high boost it produces a nice deep "whoosh" sound like a traditional BOV.

You can also block off the "horn" with the included blocking plate, then it will work exactly like the plastic bypass valve without any noise.

Unnecessary? Probably.
But it is fun, and I prefer aluminum over plastic.

Perhaps Vortech can chime in if this is a bad idea, but I'm familiar with boost and this seems solid in operating theory with no chance of unfiltered air entering the system(My main concern).

Vortech Manufactured Option (Replaces A Pipe):
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...33&postcount=1

Originally Posted by DJCarbine

Finished, blissful silence once again lol
This will allow you to bolt your stock bosch/any other 25mm/1" bypass valve onto the chargepipe that comes with the maxflow valve. This should also allow you to bolt a maxflow valve onto the stock charge pipe if there is enough clearance.
The adapter is a greddy RS bov flange to 25mm/1" hose, they can be had on ebay etc. for pretty cheap. Drill the holes out to 17/64" IIRC (next bit size up from what the holes are) so that the vortech maxflow hardware will fit, and bolt it up with the bypass filter pointing down. Plenty of clearance in this configuration, and good if you want to swap back and forth between bypass valves (loud/quiet) without replacing the entire section of charge pipe

Wastegate Integration:

No exact details but an apparent functioning example of limiting boost via EBC


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZ3cIuNhTOA&t=2m5s"]Perrin EBCS Tial wastegate Vortech supercharger - YouTube[/ame]



Possible Boost/Vacuum Leak:
Thx to @spdbydesign
Detailed Pictures:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=528

Thx to @Sportsguy83@KAB-FRS
It can be done with out removing the intake manifold:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...91&postcount=1

Originally Posted by spdbydesign

Today, Diego brought his car in for inspection after having the EVAP line pop off under boost.

We removed his intake manifold and found there were (4) 9/16" Hose Spring Clamps that needed to be installed to the EVAP module.

(2) at the module itself, (1) close to the throttle body, and (1) other once manifold is re-installed.

I picked up 2 packages of hose spring clamps for $8 at Advance Auto Parts. (Comes with two 9/16" spring hose clamps per package.)

Oil Cooler Fitment / Modifications:

Perrin Oil Cooler
Scroll down to Dezoris post below.

Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Supplied cooler mounting bracket NOT COMPATIBLE. Custom solution required
Thx to@tye300
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=276




Compatible EL/Longtube Headers:
(As headers are confirmed theyll be added)

JDL Catted EL (With minor modification to blower bracket)
NOT COMPATIBLE WITH V2 OIL FED UNITS
Thx to @kiichiro

Originally Posted by JDLAutoDesign

Vortech will fit just need a minor trimming. We dont have any dynos

HKS EL Headers
COMPATIBLE WITH V2 OIL FED UNITS
Thx to @Drift-Office

Full thread can be found here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45835

[marcoaferrer]

Thats everything I could find for now. Let me know if I missed anything.

[Dezoris]

Oil Cooler Install Tips and Tricks (Perrin)

What is a thermostatic oil cooler setup?

Its a liquid to air cooler that uses a thermostatic plate to mechanically control oil flow to an oil cooler. The thermostat inside this sandwich plate can open at a specified temperature to allow full oil flow to the cooler. Most of these plates go full open at 185F. Although this depends on manufacturer, also the thermostats and plates can be custom ordered.

THERMOSTATIC SANDWICH PLATE BY MOCAL (185F FULL OPEN)


PERRIN MOCAL PLATE FILTER AND LINES INSTALLED:










Why do I need an oil cooler?

The short answer is the FRS/BRZ/GT86 in stock unmodified form tend to have higher oil temperature when the vehicle is run hard on track or autox, and tends to have very slow temperature recovery times Running forced induction means you need to keep the oil at normal levels 170-220F on 0w20 oil for street driving. That can be very hard to do in hot climates or those who tear through the gears often.

If you drive this car on the track with the Vortech kit without an oil cooler your oil temps will reach near dangerous levels within 10-15 minutes. 270F+. From most research after the past year optimal track oil temps are 220-250F (265F being the acceptable upper limit)

What thermostatic oil coolers fit?

• Perrin Oil Cooler with some minor modifications.
• Full Blown Oil Cooler with cooler bracket mods
• Mishimoto with more serious bracket modifications

Tips and Tricks for making the oil cooler lines fit properly:


If you are running a thermostatic kit the biggest problem is line clearance over the Vortech airbox bracket, ABS module, airbox, headlamp assembly and bumper beam.

VORTECH BRACKET TOUCHING OIL LINES:

• During or after Vortech install remove drivers side headlamp by removing the four 10mm bolts and one clip on top of headlight.
• The Vortech instructions call for you to grind off the wiring harness bracket off the headlamp, removing the headlamp allows you to completely remove it and save headaches later.
• Remove headlamp and completely remove bracket pictured:

• Removing plastic will allow for more discharge pipe clearance and oil line clearance.

• Grind down Airbox bracket as pictured to allow for more oil line clearance to prevent cutting lines

• Sand and grind brackets smooth and repaint with black high temp paint if so desired.

• This is a great time to check your down pipe position and adjust it on bracket to make sure it had clearance by the bumper beam as well.

• Don't be pissed off if you have to cut some rubber hose as extra abrasion protection to protect lines in tight spaces such as bumper beam. Its good insurance against any cuts.
  

Tips and Tricks line and AN Fittings:

• Buy aluminum AN wrenches as they are softer and will not destroy the fittings having these in your arsenal will ensure you can pretty much handle all AN fittings on oil lines as well as catch can and other specialty fittings you will likely deal with.
• Buy a GOOD bag of zip ties with high and low temp ranges usually made in America and more expensive, these will not get brittle and break from the underhood heat or winter cold like the cheap zip ties.

Set of 5 AN Wrenches:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZLLUE/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Adjustable AN Wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZR6E4/ref=oh_details_o08_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Running Oil lines down the bumper and making it clean and tidy can be easy. The issue is attaching the AN fittings to the threads on the plate and the cooler.

• When attaching the lines to the cooler adjust the lines so when you thread the fittings on that they thread very easy with no effort, this may require you to keep pulling the lines so that there is very little pressure on the line so they continue to thread with no resistance, this can be challenging but is critical to a good seal.

• Once the fitting thread smoothly by hand, tighten them by hand as hard as you can.

• The lines at the sandwich plate can be very frustrating, while insuring the lines are not pressed against the ABS unit, Vortech airbox or bracket.

• Make sure your fittings are positioned as pictured:

• Once positioned again hand screw fittings onto threads and make sure they screw easily, if you feel resistance they are not threading smoothly, back off, adjust line and try and re-thread. This maybe very difficult as you need to keep adjust line to adjust angle.

• Once threaded smoothly, hand tighten as hard as you can and check all clearances.

• Take your AN aluminum wrenches and tighten until they feel tight then snug another 1/4 turn, you don't have to go very tight.

• When you do the starting procedure as instructed the vendor make sure you allow time for the oil temp to reach the temp of the plate. If the plate goes full open at 185F wait for it to reach 185F and check for leaks at all the fittings.

• If possible safely drive the car with the bumper off temporarily to check for leaks after before re-installing bumper, will save you major pain in ass.

• Carefully run your fingers under fittings at sandwich plate for oil leaks after car cools.

FINAL TIPS AND ADVICE:

• Thermostatic oil coolers always have oil flow to the oil cooler to prevent air lock according to Mocal. So your oil will not get up to temperature as fast as the liquid/oem style coolers.
• Winters weather requires monitoring of oil temps, cold oil is just as bad as hot oil. If your oil take over 10 minute to get above 110F, consider disconnecting sandwich plate or blocking off the front air dam. Disconnecting plate requires plugs in oil lines to prevent leaks of residual oil or debris:

• Oil coolers in the front grill can be damaged by rocks or debris. Keep an eye on it for leaks.

• Liquid to air coolers with external lines raise risk of leaks if there is a failure.

• Install Oil Pressure gauge for help with early warnings of pressure drop.

WARNINGS AND EFFECTS OF LEAKS

1. Oil will pool on bypass valve if plate is leaking.
2. Oil will pool on skid plate




3. Oil can contact drive belt
4. Oil can cause fire if enough collects on exhaust
5. Oil can leak out of skid plate and coat tires and cause loss of control

[Dezoris]

Oil Temperature Reference Chart 1.5 Years:
Subject to Change with Future Data Collection

Ranges and Data Collected:
100-169F Warm Up Phase, high oil pressures
170-189F Near Operating temps, oil pressures still higher
190-225F Normal Operating Range, oil pressures normalize
225-245F Middle End of operating range for track use, 5% drop in oil pressures
245-255F Upper End of operating ranges for track use, 10% further drop in pressures on 0w20
255-265F Red Zone of operating ranges for track zone, 0w20 starts to thin, oil pressures drop to questionable range.
265F+ Playing with fire on 0w20



Vortech Specific Used Oil Analysis:


Redline 0w20 | 3000 Miles on Sample
4 Hours Track Time, 10 Autox Runs | 2000 Mile Road Trip
RESULTS: VERY GOOD
POTENTIAL: Oil should go 5,000 miles no issue


Redline 0w20 | 6700 Miles on Sample
2 Hours Track Time, 50 Autox Runs | 2000 Mile Road Trip
RESULTS: VERY GOOD
POTENTIAL: Running 10,000 Miles in between changes

[Dezoris]

Reserved 2

[kiichiro]

This doesn't fit with the oil fed kit FYI and it would be interesting to see headers that are compatible for those of us electing the oil fed option

[marcoaferrer]

Cool I'll add a note. As more info is available on fitment for oil fed kits I'll update the list


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[marcoaferrer]

@Dezoris

Do you have more info on how this kit needs to be modified to fit? Where did you read that it required modification?

"Full Blown Oil Cooler with cooler bracket mods"

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by marcoaferrer

@Dezoris

Do you have more info on how this kit needs to be modified to fit? Where did you read that it required modification?

"Full Blown Oil Cooler with cooler bracket mods"

Cooler location won't clear MAF tube without bracket modification unless they change mounting point recently.

[Cal3000]

Is there an intake air cone equivalent that I can buy at Autozone or Pepboys?

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Cal3000

Is there an intake air cone equivalent that I can buy at Autozone or Pepboys?

Yes Courtesy of DJCarbine:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1307

[draggin_az]

awesome info!!!!

[draggin_az]

I have the V-3 and installed a 2.87 pulley. The power difference between the factory pulley and the 2.87 is highly noticable and much more fun to drive.

Long story short I blew a seal (cause is still undeterminded). When Vortech opened it up, there was also bearing damage so the cost to rebuild was ~$950.

I decieded that since Vortech already has it they might as well go ahead and do the V-3 -> V-2.

The exact cost is $1,095 + shipping.

[marcoaferrer]

@draggin_az did you ever use the 3.125 pulley or did you go straight to the 2.87?