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Old 09-09-2017, 10:59 PM   #1
AnotherDude000
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SPC Camber bolt install issue

So I lowered the car on Eibach Pro Kit Springs last weekend and when we attempted to install the SPC Camber bolts, they weren't going in right. My friend told me they needed to be installed in the top bolt, which we did, but for some reason the washer wouldn't move.

After some research I've come to the conclusion that they have to go to the bottom bolt, so I moved the driver's side down to the bottom bolt and the bitch would not go through easily. I had to forcefully pull it through by rotating the nut and holding the bolt down. Now the washer is flush against the strut and won't move at all. It required quite a bit of torque to get it to fit. You can turn the bolt, but the washer moves nowhere.

I must have the wrong size, no? They're part number 81305 and that's the correct part number. Unless I'm doing something wrong, but I can't for the life of me figure this out. Maybe I'll just put the stock bolts back in and call it good, but it's driving me nuts.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

Last edited by AnotherDude000; 09-09-2017 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:28 PM   #2
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I used spc 81280 camber bolts in the upper holes...

Pretty sure the correct part for the bottom hole application is 81305
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:49 PM   #3
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Yeah I'm using 81305 for the bottom holes and they won't fit. Typed it wrong in original post. They're real tough to get in.
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Old 09-10-2017, 12:42 AM   #4
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Silly question I know, but you have the top bolt loose while trying to insert the bottom camber bolt, right?

The only other thing I can suggest from memory is don't try to set the camber when inserting the bolt, just get it to go in, then when it's in (while the top is still loose), rotate the bolt head and the washer to gain max camber and that everything is sitting correctly then tighten in that position.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:26 AM   #5
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^ that, get it in whichever way is easiest, then turn the bolt to perform final adjustment

If this makes any sense, the only thing I do worth mentioning is once it's seated in I pull the bolt out a little so the washer is free and then I rotate and wiggle such that the washer is lined up appropriately for max negative camber and then get it lined up and seated again. You shouldn't have to be smashing stuff or deforming metal if you get it all lined up, yes having the other bolt loose is a must.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Silly question I know, but you have the top bolt loose while trying to insert the bottom camber bolt, right?

The only other thing I can suggest from memory is don't try to set the camber when inserting the bolt, just get it to go in, then when it's in (while the top is still loose), rotate the bolt head and the washer to gain max camber and that everything is sitting correctly then tighten in that position.
The upper bolt was loose, but the lower bolt wasn't sliding in. The threads would push through but the cam lobe gets stuck on the knuckle on the way in. I can't push it through, I literally have to pull it through with the nut, similar to what you have to do with a lug stud.

I'll go back in and check it out in a bit.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:26 PM   #7
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I don't get it. I've installed the SPC Camber bolt in the lower hole but now it won't cone out. Is it supposed to just slide in without be forced? Because it's not sliding in or out.
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Old 09-10-2017, 04:48 PM   #8
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I don't get it. I've installed the SPC Camber bolt in the lower hole but now it won't cone out. Is it supposed to just slide in without be forced? Because it's not sliding in or out.
If everything is perfectly aligned it should just slide right out. It is next to impossible to get everything perfectly aligned so it will almost always need to use some force and wiggle the knuckle back and forth to try and get it to line up. I have absolutely used a hammer to gently tap it in/out as well as the nut to pull it through just as you have.



The widest part of the bolt, the lobe, should be the same size as the hole in the knuckle and strut, it will be a tight fit, it will be difficult to get in and out, but you shouldn't be deforming anything, you should be able to spin the bolt as it sits right now and see the camber being adjusted, if you can't do that then something is wrong, pretty much the only thing that could be wrong is deformed metal and/or the wrong sized bolt for the hole.

If you want it out go grab a hammer and start smacking it.

I haven't read this all the way through but this writeup on NASIOC may be helpful, the physics are exactly the same.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1590221

Fingers crossed you have the right bolt in the right hole and you didn't wreck anything getting it in. It's definitely tricky so what I'm saying is the worst case scenario.
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
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If everything is perfectly aligned it should just slide right out. It is next to impossible to get everything perfectly aligned so it will almost always need to use some force and wiggle the knuckle back and forth to try and get it to line up. I have absolutely used a hammer to gently tap it in/out as well as the nut to pull it through just as you have.



The widest part of the bolt, the lobe, should be the same size as the hole in the knuckle and strut, it will be a tight fit, it will be difficult to get in and out, but you shouldn't be deforming anything, you should be able to spin the bolt as it sits right now and see the camber being adjusted, if you can't do that then something is wrong, pretty much the only thing that could be wrong is deformed metal and/or the wrong sized bolt for the hole.

If you want it out go grab a hammer and start smacking it.

I haven't read this all the way through but this writeup on NASIOC may be helpful, the physics are exactly the same.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1590221

Fingers crossed you have the right bolt in the right hole and you didn't wreck anything getting it in. It's definitely tricky so what I'm saying is the worst case scenario.
Thanks for the advice, it helped greatly!

So the passenger side installed with no issues. I put the camber bolt into the lower hole and it gave no resistance. The washer still won't turn with the bolt, but I do see the rotor and hub moving.

The driver side is the issue, that bolt is in the lower hole but won't come out, even with a 2lb mallet. Suppose I'll have to have someone look at it.
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:59 PM   #10
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Oof I know that feeling, had to cut a few bolts off an older wrx a few weeks back, spray some lubricant in there if you have it like pb blaster, it might ease the process a little.

Best of luck
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