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Old 06-03-2016, 11:57 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Jordan Silveira View Post
Don't hold your breath. I bought the Series Blue dash pieces. Not fun and it was 160. However, I will say I like the Series.Blue carbon fiber pattern more than ours.
Where'd you buy from? I've been tempted by the JDM Alcantra dash pieces.
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Old 06-04-2016, 12:01 AM   #44
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Where'd you buy from? I've been tempted by the JDM Alcantra dash pieces.
I just went to the stealership and used the part numbers to order them.
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:53 PM   #45
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Quick Q - I have a 2013 BRZ and wanted to upgrade to the 2016 factory BRZ headunit. I currently have an aftermarket camera setup for the 2013 working mint. Will there be a need to buy a separate adapter to make this plug n play, or will I need to repin the plugs to retain amp trigger to door speakers, camera, and factory mic?

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Old 08-22-2016, 10:19 PM   #46
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Quick Q - I have a 2013 BRZ and wanted to upgrade to the 2016 factory BRZ headunit. I currently have an aftermarket camera setup for the 2013 working mint. Will there be a need to buy a separate adapter to make this plug n play, or will I need to repin the plugs to retain amp trigger to door speakers, camera, and factory mic?

Thanks!
I doubt there is an adapter for a stock head unit. I know they all come with a backup camera after 2015 so I would think it would be as simple as finding the pin/wire for the back up camera and either splicing into it or changing the pin in that connector all together and then just splice into hot and ground wire (idk what all connections a back up camera would require lol). -I am an electrician and have done stupid things with the wiring behind our head unit, but have never wired up a back up camera in our car so this is just a guess.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:34 PM   #47
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Quick Q - I have a 2013 BRZ and wanted to upgrade to the 2016 factory BRZ headunit. I currently have an aftermarket camera setup for the 2013 working mint. Will there be a need to buy a separate adapter to make this plug n play, or will I need to repin the plugs to retain amp trigger to door speakers, camera, and factory mic?

Thanks!
idk why you would want to "upgrade" to the 2016 unit since it's a laggy piece of crap, but regardless the harness is totally different and you would have to make your own wiring harness adapter to go from the 2016 to the old 2013. There's enough diagrams and docs earlier in this thread for you to know which wires are which for the 2016, so just match it up to the 2013 and you should be golden.

Also the new head unit is shaped differently on the bezel, you'll need some new dash trim pieces from a 2015+

I had the 2016 headunit in my car and wanted to throw it out the window from day 1. Replaced with an aftermarket one and connected my 2016 OEM backup camera to it, haven't looked back since. All the install info is in this thread.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:56 PM   #48
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I have both trim pieces, so it sounds like a 2016 harness adapter and some splicing is in order. I'm not expecting a huge improvement from the 2013, but don't see anything else on the market to invest $$$ in.
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Old 08-23-2016, 12:00 AM   #49
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I have both trim pieces, so it sounds like a 2016 harness and some splicing is in order. I'm not expecting a huge improvement from the 2013, but don't see anything else on the market to invest $$$ in.
Look at the Pioneer X8500BHS. I've moved it through 3 different cars I love it so much - refuse to part with it.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:04 PM   #50
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I'm working on an Pioneer Avic aftermarket HU install (2016 FR-S) with a Alpine KTP-445U amp. I plan to run dash and rear speakers from the alpine unit and take the sub output from the Avic to the factory amp. I used the standard Toyota 10 pin harness to interface wth the factory amp. I found the 24 and 28 pin harness from autoharnesshouse that I will try to retain factory camera and AUX.

I would like to utilize the spare 6 pin harness behind the stereo to power and ground the Alpine amp. This unused harness has a 12V constant and 12V accessory as well as ground and CAN signals (I think). I've seen a pin out somewhere on these forums but can't seem to find it again. Any Help?

Edit: got the info needed. Pin 3 for 12V accessory and pin 2 for ground. Powers the Alpine amp pretty good. Install is done... Everything seems to work as expected. I was not able to use the factory amp with the rca sub signal from the HU so no mods to the factory amp.

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Old 08-29-2016, 09:28 AM   #51
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I'm actually in the same boat. I have a 2016 BRZ with Starlink Radio and I'm currently in process of replacing it with an Android based radio while trying to retaining my factor Microphone, USB, Radio Antenna, Aux Input, and Backup Camera. I'm very close. Just need to finish up my custom harnesses (waiting on capacitors to arrive).

I've compiled a pin out for the 28pin connector after extensive search on google and pinning out the radio wiring in my car. I've attached a picture of the pin outs. Hopefully this helps.

The 16 pin connector (10pin and 6pin connector) are essentially the same as the previous years BRZ except for the relocation of the Amp signal. As Luftwaffel originally pointed out, the Amp signal has been moved to Pin 9 (Brown wire) of the 28pin connector.
Finally had some time to open up my dash and get the stock reverse cam working with my Joying 4.4.4 unit. Different HU than OP, but figured I'd post in here since it's probably the best 2016 BRZ wiring harness specific thread. Thanks to info provided in posts by @SVXdc @sLoPy and @Luftwaffel, here's what I did.

Previously I had harvested an AX-TOY28SWC harness, de-pinned it, and wired up my door speaker amp turn on wire. I just added more connections to this same harness to get the reverse cam working (only powering on during reverse).

Using the removed AV RCA plug that was originally on the AX-TOY28SWC adapter, I made the red AV plug as my 'video' plug. I connected the red wire which now becomes my Camera + wire to pin #12, and the black ground wire to Camera - pin #13, and then connected the red RCA plug to the yellow Camera-in plug of the HU.

The quality may not be the best using an audio cable as a video cable, but for a reverse camera displaying on a small resolution screen, and only in reverse, it's fine for me.

HU's reverse trigger wire was spliced in to pin#2. This is where I also spliced in the 12V-in wire of a Drok 12V-6V step down module for power.

The 6V-out of the Drok module was then connected to the Camera power pin#11. The ground wire (from the same side of the 6V out) went to Camera ground pin#20. I didn't know where to put the ground wire from the red wire side so I stuck it in the Aux ground pin #27.

This is what my connector looked like... (Note: the colors of the wires on the Drok module vs the colors of the wires going into the harness are different colors since I didn't have matching colors lying around to splice in to).



View from the other side.



Tested everything out before reassembly and all is well... a functioning stock backup camera into my aftermarket HU with no stock parts modified.
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:02 PM   #52
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Previously I had harvested an AX-TOY28SWC harness, de-pinned it, and wired up my door speaker amp turn-on wire. ...

Using the removed [OEM aux jack retention] RCA plug that was originally on the AX-TOY28SWC adapter, I made the red [aux RCA] plug as my 'video' plug. ...

The quality may not be the best using an audio cable as a video cable, but for a reverse camera displaying on a small resolution screen, and only in reverse, it's fine for me.
There's actually no difference in quality between the aux RCA cord on that harness and the yellow video cables used on many aftermarket cameras and camera retention harnesses, so that's a non-issue.

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I didn't know where to put the ground wire from the red wire side [of the Drok 12V to 6V converter module] so I stuck it in the Aux ground pin #27.
According to Subaru's wiring diagrams, that pin (#27) merely goes to the shield terminal of your car's 3.5mm jack. It doesn't connect to any other ground in the car. So wiring to that pin really didn't accomplish anything. Your converter module is getting its ground from the connection you made on the 6V output side. The input and output ground leads are electrically tied together -- the converter does not provide an isolated output.

It would be better to connect the ground on the 12V side to your other black ground wires (10-pin portion of the power/speaker harness, HU's harness, etc.).

To anyone else doing this, start with the AX-SUB28SWC and you'll have the yellow camera RCA plug and 6V lead all pinned where they need to be, ready to use. You just need to extract all of the wires tied to the ASWC 12-pin plug (including the 2nd ground lead that Y's onto pin #14), and salvage one of the SWC wires to re-use in pin #9 for the amp trigger signal.

As I mentioned earlier, I can supply an AX-SUB28SWC with those modifications. I'll actually use a blue/white wire for the amp trigger -- the proper aftermarket color for that function.
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Old 09-19-2016, 02:57 AM   #53
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I haven't read everything in the thread yet but it looks like this thread has a lot of relevant information. I was planning on installing a Kenwood DDX9903S and was hoping to keep as many of the stock features as possible. Has anyone made a how to or anything to keep these features?
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:44 AM   #54
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I haven't read everything in the thread yet but it looks like this thread has a lot of relevant information. I was planning on installing a Kenwood DDX9903S and was hoping to keep as many of the stock features as possible. Has anyone made a how to or anything to keep these features?
What are you asking, exactly? What features? The Starlink's only feature is connected apps, and they don't work in the first place.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:14 PM   #55
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What are you asking, exactly? What features? The Starlink's only feature is connected apps, and they don't work in the first place.
Features may have been the wrong word lol. I wanted to mainly keep stuff like the factory USB, factory backup cam, etc.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:58 PM   #56
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Features may have been the wrong word lol. I wanted to mainly keep stuff like the factory USB, factory backup cam, etc.
You can keep all of that working, I have it all working with my Pioneer headunit. Just read through the thread and you will find everything you need to get it all working, providing your other radio supports it.
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