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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 10-31-2016, 11:51 AM   #1135
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Hey everyone!
I've had my car for about two years now and just started doing events not too long ago [clubloose here in jersey]. I've done three events so far and I'm beyond hooked lol. I haven't really played around with tuning my set up or really paid attention to any of that yet, just kinda show up with whatever tires I could find and would just shred. Over the winter I'll be looking to go with stiffer suspension [either rebuild my coilovers with stiffer springs or just order new with spring upgrades], getting toe arms to zero out the camber I have in the back and possibly get a little more steering angle [don't know if I'll be able to drop 1.1k for pbm even though I'd love to ]. If anybody is selling anything related or has any suggestions on parts let me hear it!! Thanks in advance
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:18 PM   #1136
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Hey everyone!
I've had my car for about two years now and just started doing events not too long ago [clubloose here in jersey]. I've done three events so far and I'm beyond hooked lol. I haven't really played around with tuning my set up or really paid attention to any of that yet, just kinda show up with whatever tires I could find and would just shred. Over the winter I'll be looking to go with stiffer suspension [either rebuild my coilovers with stiffer springs or just order new with spring upgrades], getting toe arms to zero out the camber I have in the back and possibly get a little more steering angle [don't know if I'll be able to drop 1.1k for pbm even though I'd love to ]. If anybody is selling anything related or has any suggestions on parts let me hear it!! Thanks in advance

I know one of the ways to gain a little angle is the Megan tie rods. Dunno if you got those yet:

The part:
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mega...Q#.WBd8qy0rJpg

Discussion:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34059
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:38 PM   #1137
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I know one of the ways to gain a little angle is the Megan tie rods. Dunno if you got those yet:

The part:
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mega...Q#.WBd8qy0rJpg

Discussion:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34059

^This.

The PBM kit is awesome, but really not necessary. $1,100 because of everything it addresses. New LCAs with offset spacers, end links, tie rods, and knuckles. It's an awesome kit, as it addresses all of the issues in the front end architetcture for these cars.... But for a 160whp car, it just isn't needed.

You can get nearly just as much by spending $80 on the tie rods and maybe $350 to have one of the known fabricators cut and re-weld the OEM knuckles. Then just ditch the front sway bar entirely to eliminate the binding. Less than half the cost of the PBM kit.

Biggest difference though between knuckles and the tie rods: The tie rods allow more angle my increasing the amount of movement available within the steering rack. This means it takes more turns of the wheel to get lock to lock, which will also increase toe out and ackerman. Modifying the knuckles DECREASES ackerman, which is what you want for drifting. The increased ackerman from just tie rods up front will probably cause some scrubbing, which slows the car down and increases front tire wear.

If you intend on going wide body and turbo/engine swap down the road, then sure just get the PBM kit, as the car will be able to utilize it properly. But there's no use for it with the low power level. You can't even keep the wheel speed up to hold full lock, except for maybe in 1st gear doing donuts lol. On stock cars, the PBM kit would just be used to fix mistakes and save yourself from spinning when you've gone to far.

Go watch videos of people drifting these cars on stock power levels with the PBM kit though and you'll see they aren't really holding any more angle than any of the other guys with just tie rods or knuckles.
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:40 PM   #1138
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^This.

The PBM kit is awesome, but really not necessary. $1,100 because of everything it addresses. New LCAs with offset spacers, end links, tie rods, and knuckles. It's an awesome kit, as it addresses all of the issues in the front end architetcture for these cars.... But for a 160whp car, it just isn't needed.

You can get nearly just as much by spending $80 on the tie rods and maybe $350 to have one of the known fabricators cut and re-weld the OEM knuckles. Then just ditch the front sway bar entirely to eliminate the binding. Less than half the cost of the PBM kit.

Biggest difference though between knuckles and the tie rods: The tie rods allow more angle my increasing the amount of movement available within the steering rack. This means it takes more turns of the wheel to get lock to lock, which will also increase toe out and ackerman. Modifying the knuckles DECREASES ackerman, which is what you want for drifting. The increased ackerman from just tie rods up front will probably cause some scrubbing, which slows the car down and increases front tire wear.

If you intend on going wide body and turbo/engine swap down the road, then sure just get the PBM kit, as the car will be able to utilize it properly. But there's no use for it with the low power level. You can't even keep the wheel speed up to hold full lock, except for maybe in 1st gear doing donuts lol. On stock cars, the PBM kit would just be used to fix mistakes and save yourself from spinning when you've gone to far.

Go watch videos of people drifting these cars on stock power levels with the PBM kit though and you'll see they aren't really holding any more angle than any of the other guys with just tie rods or knuckles.
Even though I wasn't asking, thanks for the info.

A question: What is meant by binding?
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:45 PM   #1139
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Originally Posted by DavidBob View Post
Hey everyone!
I've had my car for about two years now and just started doing events not too long ago [clubloose here in jersey]. I've done three events so far and I'm beyond hooked lol. I haven't really played around with tuning my set up or really paid attention to any of that yet, just kinda show up with whatever tires I could find and would just shred. Over the winter I'll be looking to go with stiffer suspension [either rebuild my coilovers with stiffer springs or just order new with spring upgrades], getting toe arms to zero out the camber I have in the back and possibly get a little more steering angle [don't know if I'll be able to drop 1.1k for pbm even though I'd love to ]. If anybody is selling anything related or has any suggestions on parts let me hear it!! Thanks in advance
^I was responding to your response to this lol. I agreed with your comments, but was just elaborating further.

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Even though I wasn't asking, thanks for the info.

A question: What is meant by binding?
The sway bar endlinks attach from the sway bar to the the coilover. As the wheels turn, the shock rotates, as does the endlink. Once additional steering angle is added, the shock rotates more, causing the endlink to rotate even further. The endlink can only rotate so far though.

After a certain point, they'll bind up and try to push the wheels back towards the center. You'll be fighting the steering wheel at lock. The best solution is to have the endlink mount to the LCA, but this requires customer fab work, or the PBM kit.

A lot of us decided to just ditch the front sway bar and endlinks entirely, which eliminated the issue, and actually helped the car feel less snappy on transition. We just increased the spring rates accordingly.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:22 PM   #1140
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^I was responding to your response to this lol. I agreed with your comments, but was just elaborating further.


Ha! sorry, going back and reading what I wrote, it does sound like I was being snarky. I just meant that, even though it wasn't directly meant for me, I appreciated the info as well.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:24 PM   #1141
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Ha! sorry, going back and reading what I wrote, it does sound like I was being snarky. I just meant that, even though it wasn't directly meant for me, I appreciated the info as well.
No worries. luv u 2
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:39 PM   #1142
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^I was responding to your response to this lol. I agreed with your comments, but was just elaborating further.



The sway bar endlinks attach from the sway bar to the the coilover. As the wheels turn, the shock rotates, as does the endlink. Once additional steering angle is added, the shock rotates more, causing the endlink to rotate even further. The endlink can only rotate so far though.

After a certain point, they'll bind up and try to push the wheels back towards the center. You'll be fighting the steering wheel at lock. The best solution is to have the endlink mount to the LCA, but this requires customer fab work, or the PBM kit.

A lot of us decided to just ditch the front sway bar and endlinks entirely, which eliminated the issue, and actually helped the car feel less snappy on transition. We just increased the spring rates accordingly.


Awesome info dude thanks a bunch. What spring rates are you running if you don't mind me asking? I want to go stiffer (to get fitment that is a little better with no rubbing) but don't want to go too stiff and have it handle not as nicely. I'm on isc with like 6k/8k I'm pretty sure.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:46 PM   #1143
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Awesome info dude thanks a bunch. What spring rates are you running if you don't mind me asking? I want to go stiffer (to get fitment that is a little better with no rubbing) but don't want to go too stiff and have it handle not as nicely. I'm on isc with like 6k/8k I'm pretty sure.
My car was sold last year.

However, a lot of us who ran this setup, including myself were running STANCE coilovers and LCAs with 8k front/9k rear springs.

If you eliminate the front sway bar, you'll definitely want stiffer front springs. Otherwise, you'll get too much movement and roll front the front end. It'll feel pretty sloppy.
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:34 PM   #1144
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Not getting much angle. -4 camber front -.5 rear. 0 toe all the way around. Stock sways. Not much angle and wants to straighten out. Will post video soon
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:55 PM   #1145
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Not getting much angle. -4 camber front -.5 rear. 0 toe all the way around. Stock sways. Not much angle and wants to straighten out. Will post video soon
Curious about your spring/damper, and power setup, but -0.5 might be a bit too flat. -1 to -1.5 seem to yield pretty even tire wire. I remember talking with seombody who ran 0.0 camber and was getting a good amount of positive camber wear when drifting.

I'd like to know the rest of the setup and see some footage (preferably in car). Could probably give better insight then.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:34 PM   #1146
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Curious about your spring/damper, and power setup, but -0.5 might be a bit too flat. -1 to -1.5 seem to yield pretty even tire wire. I remember talking with seombody who ran 0.0 camber and was getting a good amount of positive camber wear when drifting.

I'd like to know the rest of the setup and see some footage (preferably in car). Could probably give better insight then.
In for this as well!
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Old 11-02-2016, 12:12 PM   #1147
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Originally Posted by TylerLieberman View Post
Curious about your spring/damper, and power setup, but -0.5 might be a bit too flat. -1 to -1.5 seem to yield pretty even tire wire. I remember talking with seombody who ran 0.0 camber and was getting a good amount of positive camber wear when drifting.

I'd like to know the rest of the setup and see some footage (preferably in car). Could probably give better insight then.
Im boosted on 8lbs havent dynoed yet. I used to run 0 but i figured id give -.5 a shot
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Old 11-02-2016, 12:25 PM   #1148
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Im boosted on 8lbs havent dynoed yet. I used to run 0 but i figured id give -.5 a shot
What suspension? Spring rates?
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