10-26-2014, 12:10 PM | #141 |
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I was planning on powering the line out converter from the power wire that i will eventally run. I was only looking to set this up temporary because i didnt want to cut the rca's off the KTP-445U harness, knowing full well i was going to use them later.
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02-10-2015, 12:45 AM | #142 |
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Gonna bump this since I'm hoping to do something similar..
Was going to go with the Alpine KTP-445U as suggested, but it seems like it's not the best option? Has anyone else tried a different amp other than the Alpine or the Kicker previously mentioned by @alexand3r? Also planning to grab the Alpine SPR-60 speakers for my door. Basically looking for a bit more clarity and bass without adding a subwoofer or additional amps :| |
02-10-2015, 10:12 AM | #143 | |
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02-10-2015, 10:17 AM | #144 | |
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I wouldn't even mind using a slightly bigger amp and putting it in the same area, but above my spare tire lid if it means better sound. I just want to get better sound without adding a subwoofer in the trunk (takes up space and adds weight, meh) EDIT: Looking on Crutchfield, stuff like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130PRSD....html?tp=35757 looks interesting to me. Although that amp specifically would probably melt the stock power wires... |
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02-10-2015, 05:36 PM | #145 | |
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And yes, that amp would not be good to use on the stock wiring. You'd want to run an 8 gauge power and ground wire at minimum. |
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02-11-2015, 10:16 AM | #146 | |
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02-11-2015, 10:49 AM | #147 | |
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But I'm just wondering if using a full sized but still low power amp would be better. Like that Kicker amp with 2x30W RMS that was mentioned. Apparently it still fits, and that power draw is low enough to not need new wiring. How complicated would new wiring be anyway though btw? I assume I only need to change the two power leads and the rest of the wiring is still good enough? EDIT: Looks like I'd need to pull off trim panels and run a new line to the battery through the firewall. If I go this route, I might just put a full sized 4 channel amp in the back to power door speakers and leave the option for a easy subwoofer addition in the future. Last edited by PandaSPUR; 02-11-2015 at 11:04 AM. |
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02-11-2015, 02:33 PM | #148 | |
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02-11-2015, 02:57 PM | #149 | |
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doing wiring in the trunk sounds like the easy part. Getting wiring routed from the passenger side to the driver side and to the back is what I'm not sure about. |
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02-11-2015, 03:11 PM | #150 |
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There a bunch of DiY's ob this site and others in addition to the plethora of Youtube videos. There are holes in the fire wall specially for routing wires.
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02-11-2015, 03:14 PM | #151 |
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Yea apparently the install guide for the OEM Audio system is a good place to look. Will take a look at that once I'm out of work lol.
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02-11-2015, 11:55 PM | #152 |
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Okay so I took a look at the guide video for OEM Audio+ installation. Removing the panels looks pretty simple. Sadly I cant just go to my car and mess around right now since its parked in a garage/lot somewhere.
Anyway. I'll end up getting some 4 gauge wire (just in case, for future possibilities) and wire that from the battery to the back. Ground cable I can just attach to the chassis in the trunk right? No need to run RCAs since we can split that off the factory harness. Same with remote wire. Anyone know how long the power wire needs to be to go from driver side trunk to the battery? |
02-12-2015, 08:46 AM | #153 |
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Yes, you can get remote wire and high level audio signal from OEM amp lines in the trunk. I'd say 15-20 ft of power line to be safe, you will definitely have a little extra but better to have too much than not enough. I ran my power line from battery to passenger side trunk and I think it was about 13-14 ft.
You can get ground in the trunk from a bolt. I have a sub and amp in the trunk and for a long time I left the stock amp disconnected since the door speakers rattle badly--I was using just the dash and rear speakers for highs and really had no mids. I recently installed bass blockers to the high level signal going into the stock amp and now it sounds great. If you do this, buy both Metra Toyota radio (female & male) plugs so you will not need to splice any factory wiring... you will need these to tap into the remote wire anyway. Last edited by B-R-Z; 02-12-2015 at 09:13 AM. |
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02-12-2015, 09:43 AM | #154 |
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anyone have experience with the Pioneer Unit?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD1...-GM-D1004.html I'm thinking about running a set of 2 or 3-way 6.5" speakers in my doors off this amp.
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