KW V3 - help, i did something very stupid.

[slyphen]

those of you who are shock experts and is familiar with the mechanics of it. I did something very stupid, and i need to know what i should do, or what sign i need to look for to see if what i did fucked up my KW V3.

So after i installed everything on saturday and driving on sunday, i found that the rear keep having clunking sound when i go over small bumps at low speed. I figure it was the shock nut that holds the top hat and the strut together. so i proceed to go tighten it. during which i decided to change the crappy low profile nut i got it with to nyloc nuts. as i was tightening the right side, i forgot to change the rotation of the 8mm ratchet to hold the piston rod in place. so i kept turning trying to tighten the nut, without realizing im actually turning the fucking shaft... I dont know how much i turned, just know i turned it for a long time...

I called KW support, they had me check the rebound dials and they were fine, still tactile and 19 clicks from end to end. he said it was a good sign because if i crushed the valves it would just keep spinning... he also tell me to look for leaks as i drive a while, but there is no other way to know if its fucked unless i put it on a dyno...

any of you got any insight to this? thanks

[slyphen]

im looking at a cut away of the KW V3, it looks like its connected to the piston body. so if i was turning this damn thing, its just going to rotate in the seal. I was using a ratchet with very limited range of motion, but i did it for a long time. if i was rotating it 1/4 turn at a time, i'd estimate i rotated it probably 5-10 revolutions.

[strat61caster]

Have you driven on it yet? If it feels fine then it's fine.

Like KW support said, without spending time and money taking it apart and having it evaluated by a pro, the worst case scenario is you've messed up the seal and it leaks and you have to send it in for a rebuild. Chances are small that you've done any damage, especially since it was freshly installed and likely very clean.

Check it for leaks next week, and the week after that, maybe it'll never happen, maybe it'll leak in a year. Send it back to KW for a rebuild and enjoy the suspension for however long until it wears out the next time.

[renfield90]

No way to know without a dyno.

Turning the shaft with hand tools generally isn't an issue. I turn mine a little at the end to hit the torque spec (haven't been able to hold the shaft with a strap wrench so it's the only way to do it). I double check my rebound settings afterwards but they're always the same.

I honestly wouldn't worry unless the car's handling goes off.

[slyphen]

Originally Posted by renfield90

No way to know without a dyno.

Turning the shaft with hand tools generally isn't an issue. I turn mine a little at the end to hit the torque spec (haven't been able to hold the shaft with a strap wrench so it's the only way to do it). I double check my rebound settings afterwards but they're always the same.

I honestly wouldn't worry unless the car's handling goes off.

yah, i turned mine a lot... i think... at this point, im just going to hope for the best... keep monitoring to see if there are any leaks or other anomalies i guess :/

[MeisterR]

You should be fine, as turning the shaft just just rotate the piston inside the body.
There isn't anything actually "locking" the shaft down.

Every time you adjust height on a dual perch design damper (Tein Flex Z, MeisterR ZetaCRD, Ohlins DFV, etc), you basically turn the entire damper body with the shaft lock into place.

So I can't see any real issue, I doubt it is anything you need to worry about.

Jerrick

[jamal]

Should be fine. Those things are a bit tricky to get tightened since there is no hex key like the stock parts. Best way is with a strap wrench or something similar around the shock shaft.