Trunk V-bar, yes or no?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

Only if the stickers have been properly designed.

Of course.

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I'm basically saying that, at least in this chassis, stickers make more sense than strut bars.

Can you expand on that? What about other bracing?

[86MLR]

Will I lose structural integrity of the sticker if I trim them down to lose weight?

Will it effect the torque dip?

Would it be better, aerodynamically, to use a thinner sticker material, as apposed to trimming?

What is your opinion on sticker placement? (I found I lost 5 dynopowers at the wheel nuts by moving my K&N sticker from my airbox to the side window!!!)

Choosing the correct sticker, and its placement location, is hard, with all the false advertising and marketing magic you don't know who to believe.

It's easy to manipulate a dyno result when lab testing the latest sticker design, and until independent material testing results typical to what I have added below are conducted, it's really only the small mindedness of a persons ability to accept marketing and advertisements as fact.

Physical Property Testing
Hardness Shore's A,C,D
Specific Gravity
100% Modulus
Tensile Strength
Ultimate Elongation
Tear Strength
Brittleness Temperature
Compression Set
Moisture Content
Thermal Property Testing
Volatility
Air oven aging
Immersion testing at elevated temperatures
Electrical Property Testing
Pad Volume Resistivity at elevated temperatures
Flammability Testing
Oxygen Index
FMVSS 302
UL 94, HB, V0, V1, V2
Rheological Testing
Melt Flow Analysis
Brabender Equilibrium Torque
Brabender Degradation
Color Testing
Macbeth Color Eye 7000A Spectrophotometer with Propalette software
Accelerated Weathering Testing
Q Panel Model QUV with 340 Bulbs
Raw Material Testing
Bulk Density of vinyl Resin
Vinyl Resin Gel Content
Plasticizer Specific Gravity
Tint and Mass Tone of Colorants
Moisture Content

If anyone is intetested I have a sticker that is guaranteed to add dynopowers, it comes with a airfilter that sits next to your exhaust header because we have found that higher than ambient intake temps are the way to go.

Research was conducted by our in house resident technician

Comes in all the colors of the rainbow, red is obviously the fastest, followed, in descending order, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.

Disclaimers:

1. Blue and up requires a HD clutch

2. Green and up requires forged pistons and rods

3. For customers who choose the Orange or Red it is highly recommended to upgrade the transmission

Disclaimer to the disclaimer:

Customers who choose to to "go for max dyno's" can special order our, all of the colours of the raindow "Special Edition"

Disclaimer to the disclaimer disclaimer:

"Special Edition" items are only fabricated to suit the automatic transmission.

Here is a photo of the technician that designed the "Special Edition", we have found him to be typical to all owners of automatic transmissions.

[new2subaru]

That’s must have taken a while to write all that lol

[Sapphireho]

I installed one of those Mustang bars. It looked cool, but I had to remove it. Car kept hitting people leaving the meets.

[86MLR]

This just arrived in the mail, pretty pissed off, I'm sending it back, what the point of them if they don't come with stickers..

And yes, the old Mustang bars, typical the the Focus RS drift mode I believe

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by new2subaru

Can you expand on that? What about other bracing?

The sub-frames flop around on the chassis. Every single articulating suspension link does so through rubber pivots. They all flop around relative to the chassis and sub-frames. In the context of all that NVH isolating street car rubber, adding a strut tower brace is like polishing the handle of a dull knife.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

This just arrived in the mail, pretty pissed off, I'm sending it back, what the point of them if they don't come with stickers..

And yes, the old Mustang bars, typical the the Focus RS drift mode I believe

Keep them so your future stickers are legit. Legit stickers add more power than wish stickers.

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Of course.

[DarkPira7e]

Save money and buy subframe bushings. You'll get an incredible improvement and save your axles from wheelhop damage

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

The sub-frames flop around on the chassis. Every single articulating suspension link does so through rubber pivots. They all flop around relative to the chassis and sub-frames. In the context of all that NVH isolating street car rubber, adding a strut tower brace is like polishing the handle of a dull knife.

Thanks. I figured this is where you were going but am glad I asked the question.

Is it possible that because of all this slop that adding a strut tower bar would be a noticeable improvement?

[gpvecchi]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

Save money and buy subframe bushings. You'll get an incredible improvement and save your axles from wheelhop damage

Already fitted, all bushings from TRD, uniball STi arms, TRD strut bar, GR front and rear bars, GRMN screws and STi steering/subframe bolts. And STi rear stoppers.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Grimspeed did actual testing of their front strut bar (I assume with strain gauges).

IMO front strut bars can make a small but noticeable difference in feel and reduce NVH. I can usually tell when a car has one installed. I don't think they'll make anyone measurably faster around a track.

Rear "strut" bars will not make much of a difference in any way IMO because we use shocks in the rear and they do not see the same type of forces as the front struts.

- Andrew

[Takumi788]

The majority of braces are a waste of money. They are just bling so the hard parkers can call their cars racecars. Talk to any serious track junky. There are so many other things that actually make a difference. The money people spend on braces can be better spent on tires, brakes, safety and seat time. Skip the rest.