09-27-2013, 09:49 PM | #365 | |
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09-27-2013, 09:55 PM | #366 |
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09-27-2013, 10:10 PM | #367 |
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It looks great, the clear coat took 2 days to dry though. Tomorrow, I will sand and polish it.
So yeah, I was forced to wait a week between the red coat and the clear coat and it turned out fine.
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09-28-2013, 10:40 PM | #368 |
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UPDATE:
Here are my steps again, in case you guys missed it: * Clean lights with dishwashing soap+water, then with prep spray (optional). * Sand with 1000-2000 grit all around, make sure it's even. Wash off dust. * 3x light coats with MetalCast, 30 min in between. * 2x heavy coats with MetalCast, 30 min in between. * (Optional) Wait for a week. I only did this step because my clearcoat has not arrived yet. * Clean lights again with soap+water. * Same coat method as the red, but using 2k SprayMax this time. Note that it only lasts 24 hours once activated. Also, note that I did not sand the final red coat before applying the clear. * I let it dry for a week, just to be safe. A few hours after the final coat, the surface is still soft. Three days later, it hardened into a transparent, glossy coat, but there is the issue of the ugly orange peel texture. * Polish time! I bought an assorted pack of sandpaper from Autozone (1000,1500,2000,2500 grits). I also have this set of plastic polishes from Tap Plastic. I guess you can substitute with rubbing compound and polish compound. * I then used the sandpaper from the lowest grit to the highest, making sure that the sanding is even all around. Don't panic if after the 2500 grit the lens are still fuzzy. * I polished the lens using the Tap Plastic stuff and microfiber towelettes (those are not tissue paper!!!). It worked really well, from a hazy, matte look to a clear, candy gloss. Good luck, guys! @B-R-Z
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09-29-2013, 09:08 AM | #369 |
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Looks awesome @retrosmiths, might be doing this today, the paint atleast. Will wait a week or two for clear like you did to be safe. Thanks for the pics\info.
Last edited by B-R-Z; 09-29-2013 at 10:06 AM. |
09-29-2013, 10:52 AM | #370 |
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I really want to do this, but I always suck at painting. I think I'll practice on some plastic bottles before I attempt to touch my lights. And for wetsanding, do you use a side to side motion, up and down, circular? Not familiar with wet sanding.
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09-29-2013, 12:06 PM | #371 |
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I wetsanded for both prep and polish. Basically, I have a bucket of water nearby (or running water) to wet the sandpaper and the surface of the lights, dipping back every now and then. No particular hand motion, but every once in a while I'll wipe the lens dry so that I'll see which still need to be sanded (they will still be glossy, while sanded areas will be dull).
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09-29-2013, 08:47 PM | #373 |
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Mine came out good, I will be doing clear coat with SprayMax 2k next week. I used MetalCast for the red.
1. Ready for prep. 2000 grit paper, bucket of water, windex and paper towels. I only windexed prior to prep. 2. Both tail lights sanded evenly and then masked. This part is time consuming, just be patient. You will need to completely dry the light to see what parts haven't been sanded, sand missed parts, repeat. 3. First coat of red 4. After 3 light coats and 2 heavy coats, 30 mins in between. 5. Done and installed. Still have to do clear coat. The lighting is bad, they do not look this dark in person. |
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09-29-2013, 09:50 PM | #374 |
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Awesome! Clear coat next week, then I would wait for it to harden, at least 4 days before sanding and polishing.
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09-29-2013, 11:32 PM | #375 | |
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09-30-2013, 12:07 AM | #376 |
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I have one of those cheap respirators, but yeah, it's highly recommended because the 2K urethane is really bad to your body.
Also, don't forget to isolate your painting area. I had to clay bar the whole car yesterday due to overspray.
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09-30-2013, 12:09 AM | #377 |
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09-30-2013, 12:20 AM | #378 |
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Yeah, man, it was a PAIN to claybar the whole car. When I noticed the overspray, it was too late (I was like 15 feet from the car, I thought it was a "safe" distance). The surface of the car's paint turned into something like a 400 grit sandpaper.
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