ACT Clutch drag??

[dholloway543]

I'm wondering if anyone has solved the issue to this problem. I have been reading around and haven't found anything yet but. In the morning I leave for work and the clutch works fine able to get into R 1 2 3 4 5 6. its 45F in the morning. when I get to work and everything is warm i'm locked out of R 1 2 5 and 6. When I put it half way into 3rd because its the only gear i can get into, i can feel the engine side synchro dogs smacking the stationary rear wheel side synchros.

Same thing when I head home and its 70F it starts off good but when i get to my destination and i'm at a complete stop its like the clutch is dragging. The gears work flawlessly when i'm in motion.

I am turbo'd so my engine bay gets pretty warm. Intake air temps read 110 after inter-cooler.

But i'm confused because it seems like it likes the cold which is backwards from what ive seen in the past.

I currently have a braided steel clutch line coming and I plan on doing a full clutch fluid flush.

Has anyone else figured out this problem? Apparently its pretty common.

[dholloway543]

Also i'm running millers 75w90NT+ in the trans. Which i changed from Motul gear 300 because at first i though it was the trans oil. It did help cold weather shifting but didn't help with the overall problem.

[toast]

I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but you tried moving the engagement point with the pedal? I know I had to raise my pedal a bit when I installed the ACT, left in the position I liked stock the clutch never fully disengaged.

[dholloway543]

I have tried that. Currently the engagement point is 2 inches into the petal travel. the rest which is a foot or so is all dead zone. Still get locked out.

Its cool any ideas help.

[dholloway543]

Update: Originally just because i was curious. I flushed all the old dot 3 which was black and had black sedimentary particles in the clutch fluid tank and filled it with dot 4 bled it and drove it for 2 days. No improvement. I then installed the steel braided clutch line and put dot 4 in and bled it and the issue is 70% fixed. I have now ordered the forged clutch fork and pivot and will see if that will fix the other 30%. Hopefully I didn't destroy my synchros.

[dholloway543]

I have the billet clutch fork 'Not Installed yet'. But I thought i would share a video of what the problem is.


This is clutch to the floor.

[dhuang]

Had the same issue on my FR-S w/ the ACT SB7-HDSS kit, it was fine for 5-6k miles before I started getting locked out, though it never became as bad as what I am seeing in your video.

I had a billet clutch fork + pivot as well. Adjusting the clutch engagement point didn't make it any better, nor did flushing or replacing the slave cylinder.

I never solved the problem and only concluded that ACT quality control leaves more to be desired. :/

[dholloway543]

I have installed the billit clutch fork and billit pivot. The tob and I purchased a pilot Bering but it wasn't bad so the pilot bearing never went in. I'm not sure if anything was wrong with the parts I took out or if something fixed it because when I took off the tob it was sticking to the sleeve it slides on with gummed up grease full of dirt.


The car feels as good or better than stock again but my new problem that has surfaced is I cannot adjust my clutch to where I want it now. It's maxxed out. I guess trade offs.

[dholloway543]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9ufRZYAfWXemSH9M8
The bearing took most of the dirt and grease with it but this is what the sleeve looked like before I cleaned it

[radroach]

Do you have a master cylinder brace installed? I hear that the clutch and brakes deflect a lot of force into the master cylinder.

[ls1ac]

Just an idea, have you tried bleeding both with presser and with vacuum. A bubble in the line can do as you described. Hot bubble big, cold bubble small.
Bleeding clutch slaves are often problematic. By using both methods I have had good luck getting the air to move.

[dholloway543]

well the adjust is on the other side of the spectrum. I guess the new clutch fork has more throw making less travel in the clutch result in more throw on the bearing. Ive checked and there is no pressure on the TOB with the clutch released so im not too worried. Its just the distance to fully released is only like half an inch of travel right at the top of the petal.


Its like a downside that is also lowkey an upside because ive been shifting clean, very fast too. Just launching feels weird atm. Nothing i cant get used to though

[dholloway543]

These are the parts i purchased btw


Clutch fork: https://www.ft86speedfactory.com/vel...2013-ft86.html


Clutch Pivot: https://www.ft86speedfactory.com/vel...l#.XfeEiUF7k-4

[dholloway543]

I bet the clip that holds the arm to the pivot is my problem. I never put mine on the new fork and after looking at the toyota website.


https://parts.toyota.com/p/Scion__FR...U00300804.html


It isnt a clip but a release spring. That would pull the arm back farther away from the clutch.


Im not going to worry about it. I dont feel like dropping the trans again