Cruise control OEM complete install v2

[Futaba]

First I'd like to point out that this was done as an updated version of aagun's guide located here. So thanks to aagun for the groundwork, this is an updated version of the guide which covers the install process on cars which are missing key components needed for enabling CCS

Who this guide is for:
Anyone with a GT86/BRZ/FRS that *does not* come with cruise control installed, regardless of whether you have CCS pre-wired to the D51 clockspring sensor connector.

What do I need?
10mm Socket
15mm Socket
Phillips head screwdriver
Small flat head screwdriver
Prius OEM Cruise control kit
Dremel or some sort of disk cutting tool (optional)
Steering wheel boss lower cover (If not using a cutting tool)
About an hour of free time

Part numbers!
SU00304249 - COVER, STEERING WHEEL BOSS, LOWER. (if not cutting a hole in your original)
SU00302480 / 84632-34011 - SWITCH ASSY, CRUISE CONTROL MAIN. (Recommend you buy a kit for RAV4, Prius, Yaris, Corolla, TC, xB and xD that comes with two additional cables for a clean install.
The kit will look like this.



Step 1 - Prep work
Park your car with your steering centered as good as possible and disconnect your battery, this should be pretty straight forward

Step 2 - Taking off the steering wheel
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8IucJHAl3s"]here[/ame]
Folllow the following video guide on removing your steering wheel - be EXTRA careful not to pull off the clockspring unit.

Step 3 - Rebuilding the switch harness
By default, every 86/FRS/BRZ comes with the correct clockspring unit connector to use for cruise control, on cars without cruise control only the horn wire is connected, what you need to do is pry open the securing clip on the short harness that came with your cruise control switch, and carefully release the two pins, the cables will be red and black.

Pry open the securing clip on the connector that slots into the clockspring and install the red and black wires as shown:



Step 4 - Installing the switch
If you've opted for getting the proper rear cover with a hole, remove the two screws to holding down the front trim piece of the steering wheel, once this is popped out of place you can pop off the rear housing, then simply position your switch in to place and install your new rear section, then screw everything securely into place.

If you are going to cut a hole yourself, once the rear plastic is popped off, aim to cut a hole in the position/size as shown here:



With the hole now in place, install your switch and put the steering wheel back together, re-install to the car and connect everything back up and you should have something looking like this.



Just reconnect the horn and airbag cable and re-seat the airbag and you are done.

Step 5 - Do I need to go any further?
Reconnect your battery and turn on the engine, turn your wheel 90 degrees to the left and remove the revealed screw on the left side of the housing behind the steering wheel, then turn your wheel 180 degrees to the right and do the same for the right side, return your wheel to center and turn off the engine.

You should be able to fairly easily pull off the bottom of the plastic shroud, on the side of the drivers side door, look in to the newly exposed area.



If the connector in the following image on your car has three cables connected as shown on the left, you can put the shroud back in place, re-install the screws and go test out your now (hopefully) working cruise control!

If however the connector only has a single wire, as shown on the right, we need to rebuild the CCS connection to the ECM and the ECC connection, so move to the next step.

Step 6 - Rebuilding ECM and ECC lines
Disconnect the connector highlighted in step 5, you'll note that the single wire occupies pin 12, what we need to do is populare Pin 11 with the CCS line and Pin 10 with ECC, if you listened to my earlier advice and bought a kit with two additional cables then you will have one around 1.5 meters long with shielding, and a naked push pin plug on either end of the cable, and another, around 30cm long with a push pin plug on one end and a ring terminator on the other.

Release the retaining clip on the connector and insert the longest cables pin plug end in to the hole immediately next to the only existing pre-installed wire, then install the shorter cables pin plug next to that, then push down the retaining clip and re-connect the connector, it should now look like this:



Pins in order are: ECC, CCS, Horn

Now is a good time to go disconnect the battery again.

ECC - This needs to be extended (if not long enough), so that it can reach to be connected to junction connecter A37, in pin 15, will add more info on how in the morning when it's light out!

CCS - Remove both the passengers side and stereo surround fascia and remove the stereo by unbolting the four 10mm bolts that hold it in place, reach in and feed the long CCS cable up behind the dashboard, and over to the passengers side - there will be two fixed metal columns horizontally in the position the stereo installs to, be sure to pass the wire UNDER these so that you do not obstruct the stereo from being re-installed.

Pass the CCS line down in to the passengers side footwell, try your best to do this BEHIND the plastic paneling thats hidden behind the glovebox.

Remove the glovebox by opening it fully, unclipping the greased cam on the passengers door side, then push inwards at the rear of both sides to allow the notches on either side of the glovebox to pass the "fully opened" point, once the top of the glovebox is flat to the horizon it should slip off of the pivot points easily giving you easy access to the footwell.

Locate the ECM module (close to the passengers side door at the back of the footwell, you will need to not have a bad back, lay backwards in the chair and shuffle under, it's a bit of a pain to get to but you want to unplug the connector closest to the front of the car, you should have just enough cable length to turn it around, lift the retaining clip and insert the other pin plug on the CCS cable in to this connector, as shown below



Once done, reconnect the plug, put your glovebox back in (don't forget the cam), re-install the stereo and all panelling, reconnect the battery and test out the cruise control - with the engine running pressing the button on the end of the stalk should make the cruise control light come on, like this.



You are now all done and have (hopefully) working cruise control, go test it out!

NOTE!
If you had to rebuild the ECM/ECC lines, it's highly likely that you will also need to rebuild the brake and clutch switch system too, if that's the case, consider buying a full kit for your car! if you want to be able to cancel cruise control via brake/clutch.

[muskasim]

I managed to get the photo of junction connector A37. For my case, I connect the ECC line to pin 19 as pin 15 already occupied with wire.


I guess the ECC line able to be connected into any hole at the top row of this junction connector. Refer to the picture below, the pins at the junction connector should connect all the wires together.



If you want a clean installation you could use 1 pc of OEM push pin plug at the junction connector A37.
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/...000/item/f025/

And you will also need 3 pcs of OEM push pins below at connector highlighted in step 5 (Thread#1 by Futaba), Pin 10 (ECC line), Pin 11 (CCS line) and the other end Pin 30 at the ECM.
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/...5-amp3-035056/

[s79colin]

Have ordered basic kit for my BRZ, your guide is great but mentions that if ECM/ECC connections are not in place it is likely that I will need to add wires for brake/clutch.

My BRZ only has the single wire in the connector for Horn/ECM/ECC so how do I do the clutch/brake, or check they exist?

[muskasim]

Originally Posted by s79colin

Have ordered basic kit for my BRZ, your guide is great but mentions that if ECM/ECC connections are not in place it is likely that I will need to add wires for brake/clutch.

My BRZ only has the single wire in the connector for Horn/ECM/ECC so how do I do the clutch/brake, or check they exist?

You can try with this diagram at your own risk, I have done mine and running fine.




Here is the terminal list on each of the connectors.