Will this fit? (width, offset and tire size Qs)

[Gixxer86]

Hi Guys, looking for some quick help. I searched this thread and found several close references, but no exact answer to my question.

I'm looking to run a 17x9 setup with 245/40's. I decided that a +35 or +38 offset would be ideal; but i can only find the wheels i want w/ a +42 offset. I know that this will fit with stock suspension, but i will eventually lowering by about 1" and running -2 degrees of camber.

Will +42 clear the suspension with that much camber. I have seen several posts that suggest it may not, however Mach V Dan has -2 degrees with his setup. It shouldn't vary by wheel right? For reference, i was looking to get some Rota Titans... but only can find +42 :-(

[ill86]

Originally Posted by NYCsubaruBRZ

yea i had summer tires when i was in the snow. not fun.

i know its not most peoples taste. but i actually like the mexiflush look...

so i can run 17x8 or 17x8.25 with a 30 offset and 235/50/17? no camber and no drop. no rub? is that correct?

Yes. Sorry for the delayed response. I didn't see the notification.

[ill86]

Originally Posted by Gixxer86

Hi Guys, looking for some quick help. I searched this thread and found several close references, but no exact answer to my question.

I'm looking to run a 17x9 setup with 245/40's. I decided that a +35 or +38 offset would be ideal; but i can only find the wheels i want w/ a +42 offset. I know that this will fit with stock suspension, but i will eventually lowering by about 1" and running -2 degrees of camber.

Will +42 clear the suspension with that much camber. I have seen several posts that suggest it may not, however Mach V Dan has -2 degrees with his setup. It shouldn't vary by wheel right? For reference, i was looking to get some Rota Titans... but only can find +42 :-(

Very close inner fitment up front. 9" + ~40 is getting tight. Going to possibly be a per case solution. Meaning try it and adjust however necessary.

[FaNtaSy]

Will 18 x 9.5 + 38 on 225/40R18 lowered on eibach sportlines (1.5inch drop)
cause any issues like rubbing ?

[Raz]

Hey guys,

I posted a couple of weeks ago, but didn't get a response. That gave me time to look around some more, though.

I've been seeing that people have done 18x9.5+40 wheels with a square 245/35R18 set-up. I couldn't really find any definitive information on whether they had fitment issues with that particular set-up, though.

I will be using coilovers to get about an 1" drop when I do get the wheels.

I'm worried about potential rubbing in the front. If I use spacers to flush the wheels, will I still have to worry about rubbing?

Thanks!

[Ahmeda]

ok so im kinda new to all of this stuff! but i see that a wheel with the size 18x8.5 +42 is flush on a car lowered 1"-1.5" on eibach pro kit and 18x8.5 +32 is flush on the rear. now if i chose to get a set of 4 squared off sized wheels. meaning all 4 ate 18x8.5+42 then what MM size spacers would i add to the rear wheels to get them flush also. I need an equal set of 4 wheels for rotating tire purposes.

[Gixxer86]

Originally Posted by ill86

Very close inner fitment up front. 9" + ~40 is getting tight. Going to possibly be a per case solution. Meaning try it and adjust however necessary.

Are small spacers something realistic? Will it be unsafe or not ideal in regards to performance/aggressive driving to run a 5-7mm spacer?

[2point0]

Originally Posted by Ahmeda

ok so im kinda new to all of this stuff! but i see that a wheel with the size 18x8.5 +42 is flush on a car lowered 1"-1.5" on eibach pro kit and 18x8.5 +32 is flush on the rear. now if i chose to get a set of 4 squared off sized wheels. meaning all 4 ate 18x8.5+42 then what MM size spacers would i add to the rear wheels to get them flush also. I need an equal set of 4 wheels for rotating tire purposes.

Just plug in some math to get the difference. So if +42 is the offset of the wheel and you need to get to +32, that means a 10mm spacer is required.

HOWEVER...that doesn't actually work without some modification. A spacer that thick needs either extended studs OR it has to be a bolt-on spacer, in which case you would need to cut or grind down your stock studs, as they're going to stick out too far past the bolt-on spacer and your wheels won't fit.

[Ahmeda]

Originally Posted by 2point0

Just plug in some math to get the difference. So if +42 is the offset of the wheel and you need to get to +32, that means a 10mm spacer is required.

HOWEVER...that doesn't actually work without some modification. A spacer that thick needs either extended studs OR it has to be a bolt-on spacer, in which case you would need to cut or grind down your stock studs, as they're going to stick out too far past the bolt-on spacer and your wheels won't fit.

Ugh. Lol, and wouldn't one with extended studs still require me to cut or grind down the stock studs to fit on evenly? And is it a simple or hard matter to replace the stock studs?


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[2point0]

Originally Posted by Ahmeda

Ugh. Lol, and wouldn't one with extended studs still require me to cut or grind down the stock studs to fit on evenly? And is it a simple or hard matter to replace the stock studs?

No, it would be one or the other.

Extended studs would allow you to use a loose 10mm spacer and still bolt on your wheels (studs just pass through the spacer). Existing studs have to be pressed out and new ones pressed in. There are tutorials on this, and it can be done without a press.

A bolt-on spacer would bolt down onto the stock studs (with some length sticking out) and include new studs for mounting the wheel. The new studs on the spacer would not be an issue, but the stock ones poking through would need to be cut down.

I have 15mm bolt-ons and had to add another 7mm spacer in order to clear the stock studs (22mm effective change in offset). I did not want to cut, plus I had the extra spacers on hand anyway.

[2point0]

FYI - here's a 15mm bolt on spacer with a 5mm on top, and you can clearly see the studs poking out. My wheels have pockets on the back for this, but it still didn't clear.

[Ahmeda]

Thanks so much! I get what you mean now, I found a DIY and I understand what it means now. It's either bolt on as you showed or to remove the old studs and put on even longer ones! Thanks for the info, that's gets me set to start saving up for wheels as soon as I get the car!


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[Slick]

Originally Posted by 2point0

Just plug in some math to get the difference. So if +42 is the offset of the wheel and you need to get to +32, that means a 10mm spacer is required.

HOWEVER...that doesn't actually work without some modification. A spacer that thick needs either extended studs OR it has to be a bolt-on spacer, in which case you would need to cut or grind down your stock studs, as they're going to stick out too far past the bolt-on spacer and your wheels won't fit.

(edit: saw your second post @2point0, good info. Just wanted to point out that some bolt-on spacers can be mounted, results may vary)

Depends on the wheels you are mounting.
As an example, our OEM wheels have a cavity between the mounting holes that will allow the studs to sit within that space if the spacer if thick enough.
Not a guarantee it will work but many aftermarket wheels (but not all) also have this cavity with varying depths. However, some wheels are just solid hubs allowing the bolt pattern to be drilled through.

If you're not sure: measure stud length, deduct spacer, deduct cavity depth and see if it will work.

See example here:

[lp87]

Thinking of 18x10 +42 with a 255/35 continental dw tire all around. Have kw coilovers with whiteline front camber plates and will be dropping around 1.5-1.75 inches. Don't really want to do fender work but i'm worried about inner fender liner clearance in the front with the 42 offset.