DIY Clutch Replacement

[08stiguy]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

Well that video in post #89 pretty much showed me that this is a job that's beyond my driveway mechanic skill set. Bummer...

I'm more than welcome to help out a fellow 86'er.


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[gravitylover]

Originally Posted by 08stiguy

I'm more than welcome to help out a fellow 86'er.


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I'll keep that in mind when the time comes. Where are you located? You should add that info to your profile on the left.

[08stiguy]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

I'll keep that in mind when the time comes. Where are you located? You should add that info to your profile on the left.

Oh yes! I forgot. I'm in Los Angeles, so if you're local I can help out lol.


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[jarednoel]

Pro tip: Mark the reverse lockout plate before removal so that you don't have to play a guessing game once you put it back together. It's slotted.

[Jhood]

Originally Posted by Jhood

Just installed mine.. have about 200 miles on it so far. Anybody else have a harmonic rumble when decelerating / coasting in gear? I have it occur between 2.5k and 3.5k rpm, and was told by someone that it's normal it's just usually chatter or gear rattle. While I get that this is a "performance / sport" clutch, it's only a stage 1 and not harsh at all so I wouldn't expect much NVH from it, so I'm not sure about that answer, anybody else have similar issues? Was it an install error?

PS - I have the stock flywheel in

Just figured I'd come back to mention that loud harmonic noise I was getting has gone down to almost non existent. It got quiet around 700 miles or so and by the 1k-1.5k break in it was almost gone entirely. Just in case anyone else has "more than the usual" amount of chatter after install, its a good chance it will lessen over time after break in.

Also curious about that rubber boot that covers the bottom of the shifter where the cotter pin is... exactly how important is this piece? lol

[MooKz]

Just installed an ACT 4 puck clutch due to a worn throw out bearing.. I followed these steps and install to a day! Thanks so much.. Only problem I have is now I have a CEL (maybe coincidence) and it's for a bad crankshaft position sensor.. I don't remember removing this or doing anything with it.. I don't even know where the sensor is but I am wondering if I have to pull the trans again?

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[VIC_BRZ]

I'm wrapping up the install, but I'm having issues with the shifter. It doesn't want to go into gear. The only direction it will move is to the right as if its in neutral but wont move to the left. Also it seems like it is only going into 3rd and 5th but its a very short throw. Any idea on what could be the issue?

[Trust86]

Originally Posted by MooKz

Just installed an ACT 4 puck clutch due to a worn throw out bearing.. I followed these steps and install to a day! Thanks so much.. Only problem I have is now I have a CEL (maybe coincidence) and it's for a bad crankshaft position sensor.. I don't remember removing this or doing anything with it.. I don't even know where the sensor is but I am wondering if I have to pull the trans again?

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Did you ever figure out what it was?

[MooKz]

Originally Posted by Trust86

Did you ever figure out what it was?

The flywheel wasn't lined up properly.. had to pull the trans again.. all is good now and then car pulls hard as a mutha

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[djwishbone]

Thank you for putting together this howto, it helped out immensely with the install. I've done lots of little things but this is the first time I've attempted a clutch swap. Some of my notes.



I didn't remove the interior and decided to undo the three pins from the underside of the shifter linkage instead. It was no big deal and pretty easy to do. The upper portion of the linkage does hang by the boot and may be something you want to watch out for if you go this route.

Subaru left out my retaining pin on my shift linkage from the factory and I had to wait several days for a replacement part. Seems like something pretty major to leave out. There isn't much holding the linkage together without it.

Subaru cross thread my overpipe bolt from the factory and it was a %#!@# to get off. This seems like a common problem. I just forced it back on with anti-seize and will be replacing the entire exhaust soon anyway.

It would help out quite a bit if the first post could be edited to have the torque values in line with the parts. I had a hard time translating all the text to which bolt or nut it was referring to.

The starter motor housing does not align perfectly with the bellhousing. I didn't notice this removing it but was very odd when I put it back. Probably a generic part fit I guess?

The trick for getting the trans back in is the engine tilt. Read this thread and LISTEN to the advice. Playing around with the lift on the engine made the trans slide in without any issue.

Put your mtec springs in BEFORE you put your transmission back in your car (duh?)

Don't smack yourself in the face trying to torque your drivetrain back together, it hurts.

Wear gloves, cutting up your hands hurts and there is an absorbent number of sharp edges on this car.

If you decide to fill the diff at the same time you are changing your trans oil you may want to get a pump. It's a ^@#$!@# to get enough of a bottle into the diff from just the bottle mechanism itself.

I spent two full days on this going slow and learning.

What I decided to accomplish with this:
ACT XT Street Clutch "Normal" streetlite flywheel (SB7-XTSS)
Velox Carbon Driveshaft
TRD Short Shifter
MTEC Springs

I'm happy with the setup so far. The pedal feel is definitely firmer but not annoyingly so. I haven't spent a lot of time in stop and go traffic but IMO it is not too firm. There is very little, to no noise from the flywheel (it is a streetlite afterall) or other discernible noise that I've detected so far (30 miles). Taking off from a dead stop is different from stock, obviously, but I didn't find it difficult to adjust to.

[catsspat]

I just went through the process last weekend (took 2 full days by myself), so, in case it helps anyone...

All values are from 2013 BRZ service manual.

* Under Cover (front-section -- aluminum).

* 8x 12mm bolts 30 Nm (22.1 ft-lb)
* 7x push pins
* 4x 10mm bolts to the mid-section cover 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lb)

* May be left alone if taking the bottom covers in one piece.

* Under Cover (mid-section).

* 7x 10mm bolts 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lb)

* Exhaust Pipe Assembly (FRONT).

* To the exhaust manifold, toward the engine.

* 2x nuts 42.5 Nm (31.3 ft-lb)
* Won't be smooth due to all the heat cycling they went through.

* To the exhaust pipe bracket attached to the bottom rear of the transmission mount, through a V-shaped attachment on the exhaust pipe.

* 1x nut 50 Nm (36.9 ft-lb)

* To the rear exhaust, toward the muffler.

* 2x nuts+springs+bolts 18 Nm (13.3 ft-lb)
* Springs & bolts are closer to the muffler, nuts closer to the engine.

* Propeller Shaft.

* Mid-section mount to the chassis.

* 2x bolts 52 Nm (38.4 ft-lb)

* Mating to the differential.

* 4x bolts+washers+nuts 74 Nm (54.6 ft-lb)
* Bolts+washers closer to the transmission, nuts closer to the diff.
* Remember the alignment marks!

* Manual Transmission Oil.

* Filler Plug & Drain Plug 37 Nm (27.3 ft-lb)

* Shifter Lever Assembly.

* Adjustable Stopper Plate to guide 1st & 2nd gear selections, and to block reverse.

* 4x 10mm bolts 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lb)

* Main Plate (over the big rubber boot)

* 4x 12mm bolts 18 Nm (13.3 ft-lb)
* I felt this was a bit high because it squishes down on the rubber pretty hard.

* The interior trims are screwed over plastic components, so just use a screwdriver and don't over do it.

* Starter.

* Ground cable.

* 1x bolt 14 Nm (10.3 ft-lb) ***this disagrees with the 13 Nm value from the transmission section***

* Electrical connections to the magnet starter switch assembly.

* 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lb)

* Starter is attached to the engine block, through the transmission using 2x bolts. See transmission to the engine below.

* Manual Transmission.

* Shifter retainer connection to the chassis. The upper rear most part of the transmission, right under the shifter assembly.

* 2x bolts 18 Nm (13.3 ft-lb)

* Exhaust pipe bracket to the transmission.

* 2x nuts 23 Nm (17 ft-lb)

* Rear mounting insulator (black piece) to the transmission.

* 4x bolts 40 Nm (29.5 ft-lb)

* Rear mounting member to the mounting insulator above.

* 2x nuts+washers 55 Nm (40.6 ft-lb)

* Rear mounting member to the chassis.

* 4x bolts 65 Nm (47.9 ft-lb)

* Clutch slave cylinder.

* 2x bolts 37 Nm (27.3 ft-lb)

* Ground cable.

* 1x bolt 13 Nm (9.6 ft-lb) ***Starter section says 14 Nm instead***

* Transmission to the engine.

* 6x bolts 50 Nm (36.9 ft-lb)

* Includes the two that will hold the starter.

* 2x nuts 50 Nm (36.9 ft-lb)

* Clutch.

* Release fork support (if replacing with Velox Billet or equivalent).

* 1x release fork support thingy 16 Nm (11.8 ft-lb)

* Clutch cover.

* 6x bolts 16 Nm (11.8 ft-lb)

* Flywheel.

* 8x bolts 85 Nm (62.7 ft-lb)

[smg1138]

I'm going to be replacing my clutch with the Exedy OEM unit tomorrow. Just to be clear, it is possible to do this without removing the shifter, right? I'll be using a lift, so would rather do everything from under the car if at all possible.

[djwishbone]

Yup. Completely possible and easy to do.

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[nunonuna]

Does this have to be done on flat floor?? My parking space is slightly sloped to the side. Maybe 3 to 5 degree slope. I would appreciate for any advice.