How to use the OEM amp Wiring

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by TOLM

(rise of the dead)

Awesome thread, kudos to whoever started this one and contributed to it

Question: looks like to intercept the signal to feed it into an aftermarket amp, we can either use pins 1-5/ 2-6 (amplified) or 3-9/4-10 (presumably high level as well just not yet subject to another amplification).

Which pins did you guys use for your project?

(Background: I am looking just to add a sub, keeping stock amp for front woofers.. kinda makes sense to use 1-5/2-6 to get a nice and strong signal for my sub???)

thanks

I would use 3-9/4-10, every step of amplification technically adds noise, so HU is step 1, stock amp is step 2, if you wire your LOC on the amped out, then its going to be a 3rd step, whereas before it gets the same signal as the stock amp does, which makes the sub amp an additional step 2. if your amp takes high level inputs you can forego using a LOC as well.


My thoughts anyways, I'm not an expert, just a hobbyist

[TOLM]

Originally Posted by Chimera

I would use 3-9/4-10, every step of amplification technically adds noise, so HU is step 1, stock amp is step 2, if you wire your LOC on the amped out, then its going to be a 3rd step, whereas before it gets the same signal as the stock amp does, which makes the sub amp an additional step 2. if your amp takes high level inputs you can forego using a LOC as well.


My thoughts anyways, I'm not an expert, just a hobbyist

Thanks man. I overall agree with your logic. Had concerns about the strength of the signal. Still decided to try the pins you suggested. Worked like a charm. Thank you. The signal is plenty strong

[5H1F7Y]

Great writeups, Already installed my infinity components in the IP/Doors, Will be wiring my Amp tonight for the sub (Hifonics Brutus & Kicker L7(8")) never had to deal with high level inputs before so all this info was great for tapping in to the OE amp. Ill be replacing the OE amp/headunit this summer sometime

[daskaman]

Thank you guys for the help.

First harness I bought I destroyed since the push pins mostly decided to self destruct. Second harness (only $4) I took my time and it went great.

Here is my harness mostly completed

[Ellis86]

If i want to retain the stock amp and add a lc2i for a sub out, straight through with 3/9 and 4/10 T offs to the lc2i (plus remote, 12v) the best option? full signal? a few different methods in this thread. i have both the male/female harness adapters ready, just need to solder it up.

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by Ellis86

If i want to retain the stock amp and add a lc2i for a sub out, straight through with 3/9 and 4/10 T offs to the lc2i (plus remote, 12v) the best option? full signal? a few different methods in this thread. i have both the male/female harness adapters ready, just need to solder it up.

I think 3/9 and 4/10 would T so you get stereo (L+R) summed into the LC2i (it has 2 channels in)
3/9 and 4/10 are full signal for left and right
sounds like you have a good idea of whats going on

[Ellis86]

Looking at the harness adapters i got, i'm not confident i know which are 3/9 and 4/10. I haven't repined them.

from the back of the female plug, 4 pin row on top, 3/9 is pink / blue(looped from 8) and 4/10 would be yellow / orange+white?

does anyone have a picture of the amp inputs/harness labeled for reference? i'll skim this post again and see if i can find it myself.

Also, which are the power/remote? 7 / 8?

edit: found this, looks to be the factory male connector (so reversed to the above) for the amp

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by Ellis86

Looking at the harness adapters i got, i'm not confident i know which are 3/9 and 4/10. I haven't repined them.

from the back of the female plug, 4 pin row on top, 3/9 is pink / blue(looped from 8) and 4/10 would be yellow / orange+white?

does anyone have a picture of the amp inputs/harness labeled for reference? i'll skim this post again and see if i can find it myself.

Also, which are the power/remote? 7 / 8?

edit: found this, looks to be the factory male connector (so reversed to the above) for the amp

post #1 has the pinmap with mages. But on your image you have it correct.

[b2execute]

Has anyone figured out how to eliminate the static from the KTP-445U ?

[NickB34]

Originally Posted by b2execute

Has anyone figured out how to eliminate the static from the KTP-445U ?

I had a lot of fuzz when I hooked mine up (I have the mini JL amp, not the ktp) and it took using an audio control LC2i to clean up the signal.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[gibrz]

Originally Posted by zdr93523

Here is the harness with all necessary connections. Note that none of the rear output wires are used

!

Since the rears were not used could I convert that to rca and vampire the remote and run a power ground for a small powered spare tire sub?

[rixter145]

Thanks for all the info shared so far, have a few questions since I'm quite an audio noob:

My goal is to have a better soundstage while keeping weight gain to minimum.
I already have an aftermarket head unit (an android headunit) so there's already good gains on my tweeters and rear speakers.

I am looking at class d amps to give more oompf to the stock stereo speakers. So far I am looking at the JBL Stage A 6004 amp which is 4 channel.
Will be using the metra harnesses for less wire cutting
For a 4 channel amp, can I use 2 channels for the front door speakers and bridge the remaining 2 channels for a subwoofer later?

If not, is it better to just get a 2 channel amp since I might need to get another amp with the subwoofer?

[soundman98]

first, i would not recommend using the oem amp wiring for that amp. definitely run your own new line off the battery to power it.

as far as that amp, i don't see any immediate documentation on jbl's site indicating it can be bridged, so it most likely can't. meaning that you could run a sub off it, but it will need to use only 1 channel, and won't get any more than 60w, which is pretty weak for a sub.

the 3 options are really,

use that amp, because i assume you've already got it, and let the chips fall where they lie.

get a different bridgeable 4-channel amp and run as you'd like in the first place.

get a 2 channel amp, and setup oversized power wiring with fused splitters and everything to eventually add the sub amp later.

[FR-S2GT86]

You might be interested in the D4S JP23⁴. It's a four channel amp with a lot of power and it also has high pass, low pass, all pass and band pass filtering capabilities. The band pass filter would come in handy in these audio systems. Here's a review from Williston Audio Labs

If I didn't already have the amps that I'm installing in my system, I might have chosen this amp due to its band pass filter. You can run it in 4-channel, 3-channel or 2-channel mode.