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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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11-08-2012, 11:29 AM | #15 |
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most manual transmissions in cars dont have synchros in 1st gear. so downshifting into 1st while moving in just about any car can cause it to grind. it can be avoided but its not at all uncommon for this to happen, just gotta be very gentle putting it in while coming to a stop.
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11-08-2012, 11:49 AM | #16 | |
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But this rough 2nd gear shift is proving to be common to our car unfortunately. When you feel the gears engage (typically on a cold 2nd gear shift), what you're feeling isn't necessarily bad for the tranny. That is not grinding that you're feeling. Just take it easy with that shift when cold, plan on a little extra time. I've had it refuse to go into the 2nd gate as well and I've found that simply releasing pressure on the stick and trying again has worked. If you're familiar with double clutching, some have said that helps as well.
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11-08-2012, 12:06 PM | #17 | |
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What about in less extreme situations? Is that still considered lugging the motor? Where you still feel a slight rumble? Like downshifting to second at a stop sign but just rolling slowly through the stop will cause that rumble as you press on the gas. |
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11-08-2012, 12:09 PM | #18 | |
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11-08-2012, 12:37 PM | #19 |
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When you're approaching a stop sign, take it out of gear, let the clutch out, come to a complete stop, engage first, then go. Avoid trying to go into 1st while you're still moving; most MTs hate that.
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11-08-2012, 01:00 PM | #20 | |
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I don't go into 1st while coming to a stop. I know it's a bad habit, but I just slow down enough and downshift to second then continue on. I'm just wondering if that is considered lugging the motor when I feel that slight vibration since I was going pretty slow. |
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11-08-2012, 01:04 PM | #21 | |
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11-08-2012, 01:15 PM | #22 | |
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11-08-2012, 01:29 PM | #23 |
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Maybe just a technicality, but in modern transmissions with syncromesh, the transmission gears are always meshed together, so you can’t really grind a gear if you engage the clutch too soon during a shift. What you are actually grinding are the syncromesh sleeve ring teeth against the gear syncro teeth. Syncromesh is kind of hard to visualize if you haven’t been into a transmission before, but here is a nice video that does a pretty good job of describing and illustrating how the syncromesh works.
To get the syncros to grind required precise timing. You must wait just long enough for the gears to have matched speed so that you can push the syncro sleeve past the syncro blocking cone, then release the clutch before the syncro sleeve engages with the gear syncro teeth. Because there are so many syncro teeth being bumped together during this ‘grinding’ the individual pressure on each tooth is not much, so even though it sounds horrible, the actual wear on the syncro teeth is not much. |
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11-08-2012, 01:39 PM | #24 |
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^^^^ Also, howstuffworks.com used to have a good article explaining syncros; maybe it's still there.
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11-08-2012, 03:56 PM | #25 | |
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If it's difficult to get into gear, hold on to the clutch, put it into neutral and release the clutch, then clutch in again and try going into gear again. You can blip the throttle while you are in neutral if you don't want the engine to work as hard to get it back up to speed, but this is in essense double clutching. On old cars sometimes it's sticky going into reverse or first gear, double clutching helps you get into gears. Syncros have come a long way since they were first introduced but still aren't 100% especially with temperature fluctuations. In my opinion double clutching is still a very useful skill to have. It's not just some ricer term from Fast and Furious. |
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11-08-2012, 04:27 PM | #26 |
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For the lugging thing, I'm pretty sure that as long as there's no noise and vibration the engine isn't really being harmed as the engine doesn't produce much torque at low rpm anyways, but with these smaller 4 cylinder engines you usually want to be in 2nd at the highest when taking off, and 3rd will sorta work but it's a little embarassing waiting for the revs to climb off idle. To accelerate you want to be above 1500rpm at the very minimum, and 2000 before giving it nearly full or full throttle. It might be a bit hard to tell how the engine is doing in most cars since your typical car is pretty well insulated from engine noise, but shaking and knocking sounds are indications of poor combustion stability.
It's totally okay to roll around at very low loads and barely over 1000rpm (all automatic transmissions hold gear down to a bit over 1000rpm), but to accelerate perform a downshift first. Bigger per cylinder displacement usually means the engine runs better at lower speed, which is why 6 liter American V8s are sometimes geared for under 1500rpm at highway speed, as they can run at slightly higher loads at those speeds. |
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