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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 08-15-2018, 08:56 PM   #15
NoHaveMSG
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Looks like they are +45.
Don't think the TC105 comes in any other offset but +35 at 17X9.
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:56 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG View Post
That top strut bolt is a camber bolt, I bet it has more then that -.5 that is says. With my 245's on 17X9 +38 57dr's they would almost touch with camber bolts.

Try to loosen the strut bolts and turn that upper one and see if it rocks the knuckle out.
What's your front camber set at currently with the camber bolts?
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Old 08-15-2018, 11:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Looks like they are +45.
The wheels say the offset is 35 on them, so I'm pretty sure.

Last edited by Nurnburger; 08-16-2018 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:27 AM   #18
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What's your front camber set at currently with the camber bolts?
I took them out and gave them away. I am on coils with adjustable tophats now.
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Looks like they are +45.
That's what I'm thinking.


Pull one off and check the markings on the wheel itself. If it says +35, I would be tempted to grab a carpenter's level and measure them to verify.


Did you buy them brand new? If used, it is possible they were shaved down by the prior owner - some ppl do re-machine wheels.
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Old 08-16-2018, 01:52 PM   #20
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I just can't understand the probs you are having -again- I had 255/40R17 RS4's on a 17x9 +35 rim without any rubbing at all with a 100% stock suspension. It was close - maybe 2-3mm of room when at 27/28 psi and cold (which gave me 34/36psi hot on track) but I didn't rub.

That's 10mm more rubber than you have, so something isn't adding up.
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:50 PM   #21
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I just can't understand the probs you are having -again- I had 255/40R17 RS4's on a 17x9 +35 rim without any rubbing at all with a 100% stock suspension. It was close - maybe 2-3mm of room when at 27/28 psi and cold (which gave me 34/36psi hot on track) but I didn't rub.

That's 10mm more rubber than you have, so something isn't adding up.
Camber bolts rock the knuckle in decreasing the amount of clearance.
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:17 PM   #22
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GTM still under construction

Nice to meet a fellow FFR'r here. I'm building an FFR roadster!
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Old 08-17-2018, 03:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG View Post
Camber bolts rock the knuckle in decreasing the amount of clearance.
^this. If you get a camber plate instead, it will move the whole strut inwards instead of the knuckle itself. The knuckle will stay in the same place. I'm pretty sure if you make the camber bolts positive, you'll gain clearance at expense of not having negative camber and looking weird.
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Old 08-17-2018, 02:13 PM   #24
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I have 17x8 +40 wheels with 245/40 tires. They have no rubbing with zero camber. But the clearance is about 10mm.

You have (25.4/2 - 5) 7.7 mm less clearance than my setup plus negative camber. If you reset to zero camber you might be able to clear without hardware change but it will still be very close.
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Old 08-18-2018, 09:50 PM   #25
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I had 17x8 +45's with 225/45/17's and -2.2* of camber added at the knuckle with no rubbing. 17x9 +35 with 245's should only be about 2mm closer to the spring seat.
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Old 08-19-2018, 10:17 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=Turbo;3122488]Nice to meet a fellow FFR'r here. I'm building an FFR roadster![/QU


It's been on the back burner for a while,,, doing a swap on the FRS.
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Old 08-30-2018, 01:44 AM   #27
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I finally got my car aligned today, which helped shed some light on the issues. It turns out that I had -2.5 deg camber in the front! That would definitely cause it to be much closer to the strut.

I had put 3mm spacers to get it to clear on the way to the shop, but I'm thinking I'll take those out now that I have a lot more clearance.

On a side note, it was mentioned to me by the shop that I shouldn't use OEM lug nuts with aftermarket wheels. Apparently "normal OEM" nuts are rounded, whereas aftermarket wheels have conical seats. My understanding is that the BRZ stock lug nuts are conical, so I should be good, but wanted to make sure.
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Old 08-30-2018, 03:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nurnburger View Post
I finally got my car aligned today, which helped shed some light on the issues. It turns out that I had -2.5 deg camber in the front! That would definitely cause it to be much closer to the strut.

I had put 3mm spacers to get it to clear on the way to the shop, but I'm thinking I'll take those out now that I have a lot more clearance.

On a side note, it was mentioned to me by the shop that I shouldn't use OEM lug nuts with aftermarket wheels. Apparently "normal OEM" nuts are rounded, whereas aftermarket wheels have conical seats. My understanding is that the BRZ stock lug nuts are conical, so I should be good, but wanted to make sure.
The factory FRS/BRZ lug nuts are fine. They come with a 60 degree taper.

Not all factory lug nuts are tapered like the FRS/BRZ lugs, which is why the shop mentioned it.

It still might be worth getting aftermarket lug nuts since the OE lug nuts don't have a seat/ledge on which a socket can rest. Basically, you'll be resting the socket right on the wheel risk rubbing them if you're not careful.
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